Temperature sensor
- Thread starter Ben1921
- Start date
Generally the temperature sensor is located very close to the thermostat housing. This will be at the top of the engine block adjacent to the radiator hose.
I have searched that area with no luck. This is the 5 cylinder engine made in mid 90s.
On the M4700 it is on top of the head, at the extreme Right / REAR of the engine. Look just above the fuel filter bowl.
When I bought mine it was demonstrated that “everything works”…but that was a deception by the second owner who was selling it to me. We ran the engine and operated all the hydraulics, etc…. but after maybe only 15 minutes of operation it didn’t seem problematic that the temp indicator still rested on Cold.
The tractor only had 390 hrs on it (good thing the tachometer/odometer is a common mechanical-drive speedometer-cable type or that would have been suspicious). The paint and cleanliness and tire-wear all matched what one would expect from a low-hour tractor so that wasn’t an issue.
It was only after I’d owned it a week and run it for several hours plowing that it became obvious the gauge didn’t work at all. Mice had eaten the wiring and when I opened up the Instrument cluster it was obvious some ignorant amateur had managed to get the tractor running to sell it…but had either disabled, removed, or skipped a lot of wiring they didn’t understand and had cobbled together a wad of wire and electrical tape and quick-clip connectors …instead of properly repairing the mouse-damage.
Fortunately the people up at Messicks are fine and helpful folks and they emailed a PDF schematic to me and I was able to remove all the spaghetti-wiring the deceptive seller had done…. and I repaired it properly with aircraft wire and connectors. This is how I found the temp-sending-unit and repaired the connection between the temp gauge and the sender (and few other things also). It’s been a very good and reliable workhorse tractor ever since.
Unlike many other engines, on the M4700 it is about as far away from the thermostat as possible. The thermostat is where you’d expect it at the top/front of the head at the upper radiator hose…but the temp sending unit is at the top/rear of the head on the right side. (and to add frustration for anyone not familiar with this 5-cyl engine, …. the WSM never addresses the sending unit at all…not even in the Cooling System Troubleshooting section.
When I bought mine it was demonstrated that “everything works”…but that was a deception by the second owner who was selling it to me. We ran the engine and operated all the hydraulics, etc…. but after maybe only 15 minutes of operation it didn’t seem problematic that the temp indicator still rested on Cold.
The tractor only had 390 hrs on it (good thing the tachometer/odometer is a common mechanical-drive speedometer-cable type or that would have been suspicious). The paint and cleanliness and tire-wear all matched what one would expect from a low-hour tractor so that wasn’t an issue.
It was only after I’d owned it a week and run it for several hours plowing that it became obvious the gauge didn’t work at all. Mice had eaten the wiring and when I opened up the Instrument cluster it was obvious some ignorant amateur had managed to get the tractor running to sell it…but had either disabled, removed, or skipped a lot of wiring they didn’t understand and had cobbled together a wad of wire and electrical tape and quick-clip connectors …instead of properly repairing the mouse-damage.
Fortunately the people up at Messicks are fine and helpful folks and they emailed a PDF schematic to me and I was able to remove all the spaghetti-wiring the deceptive seller had done…. and I repaired it properly with aircraft wire and connectors. This is how I found the temp-sending-unit and repaired the connection between the temp gauge and the sender (and few other things also). It’s been a very good and reliable workhorse tractor ever since.
Last edited:
Thanks I will remove the cluster and take a look. I am fighting with the steering wheel now. It is really stuck. I just bought this tractor the fuel gauge also stuck at 1/4. It would be nice if it worked but I can live with out it.On the M4700 is is on top of the head, at the extreme Right / REAR of the engine. Look just above the fuel filter bowl.
Unlike many other engines, on the M4700 it is about as far away from the thermostat as possible. The thermostat is where you’d expect it at the top/front of the head at the upper radiator hose…but the temp sending unit is at the top/rear of the head on the right side. (and to add frustration for anyone not familiar with this 5-cyl engine, …. the WSM never addresses the sending unit at all…not even in the Cooling System Troubleshooting section.
When I bought mine it was demonstrated that “everything works”…but that was a deception by the second owner who was selling it to me. We ran the engine and operated all the hydraulics, etc…. but after maybe only 15 minutes of operation it didn’t seem problematic that the temp indicator still rested on Cold.
The tractor only had 390 hrs on it (good thing the tachometer/odometer is a common mechanical-drive speedometer-cable type or that would have been suspicious). The paint and cleanliness and tire-wear all matched what one would expect from a low-hour tractor so that wasn’t an issue.
It was only after I’d owned it a week and run it for several hours plowing that it became obvious the gauge didn’t work at all. Mice had eaten the wiring and when I opened up the Instrument cluster it was obvious some ignorant amateur had managed to get the tractor running to sell it…but had either disabled, removed, or skipped a lot of wiring they didn’t understand and had cobbled together a wad of wire and electrical tape and quick-clip connectors …instead of properly repairing the mouse-damage.
Fortunately the people up at Messicks are fine and helpful folks and they emailed a PDF schematic to me and I was able to remove all the spaghetti-wiring the deceptive seller had done…. and I repaired it properly with aircraft wire and connectors. This is how I found the temp-sending-unit and repaired the connection between the temp gauge and the sender (and few other things also). It’s been a very good and reliable workhorse tractor ever since.
Do you have a schematic for your machine? I think many Kubotas share a voltage regulator in the gauge cluster between the fuel and temperature gauges. Since both of your gauges are malfunctioning, maybe there's a connection (no pun intended).
That steering wheel can be a booger…. There’s actually a special tool shaped like a small horseshoe to slip beneath the hub so you can use a wheel-puller to grab the horseshoe instead of the plastic steering wheel. (I didn’t do this…but You can make your own) I used a 3-arm gear puller and by loosening the steering wheel center nut toward the top of the threads I could smack the gear-puller-nut with a hammer while taking a strain on the steering wheel…and it “popped” loose. (THere’s really no good reason to tighten these steering wheels down so tightly. Use some anti-seize and just barely snug the steering wheel nut down when you re-install it.
Last edited:
The M4700 is a straight-forward tractor…. no voltage regulator or other gizmos between instruments and sending units. The only mysterious thing I’ve found is the starter solenoid…(a relay in itself)…actually is activated by ANOTHER (expensive) relay inside the instrument cluster. Instead of paying $110 PLUS freight….for a OEM relay I used a $5 automotive type. I’ll try to find a link to that thread.
Here it is… with pics.… but the SOLUTION is found at Post #6: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/another-no-starter-rotation-thread.51331/
Here it is… with pics.… but the SOLUTION is found at Post #6: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/another-no-starter-rotation-thread.51331/
Last edited:
Captain13
Active member
Equipment
M7040 4WD ROPS, ZD28, Woods (84” box blade, 72” harrow, 48” pallet forks)
getting the connector off the sensor is a PITA if it is like my M7040. If you haven’t removed it yet, here’s my tip. Mine is in the same location and with the FEL chassis, it’s a little hard to get to. And you will need a good light.
The connector lock is a brass wire in mine. You have to clean the connector good to see it. You will need a pick and small screw driver to engage the lock and release it. I couldn’t figure out the locking mechanism until I cleaned it up and blew off the dust.
The connector lock is a brass wire in mine. You have to clean the connector good to see it. You will need a pick and small screw driver to engage the lock and release it. I couldn’t figure out the locking mechanism until I cleaned it up and blew off the dust.