T1760 fuel leak
- Thread starter thunndarr
- Start date
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Looks like a diaphragm inside the fuel pump failed. It's actually better that it's leaking out. If it was an internal leak, the first thing you would see was your oil level rising in the engine.
As mentioned, fuel pump. The hose you see was a later change. Originally when the fuel pump leaked it dripped on the exhaust manifold!
It is your fuel pump.
Don't run machine as you risk fire. Gasoline far more dangerous than diesel.
Messicks has the pump but you need to call them with your serial number in your hand as there a different models of fuel pump depending upon your serial number. Looks like $100 +
Should be easy to change but buy a gasket to go between the pump and engine.
http://www.messicks.com/ku/86288
Dave M7040
Don't run machine as you risk fire. Gasoline far more dangerous than diesel.
Messicks has the pump but you need to call them with your serial number in your hand as there a different models of fuel pump depending upon your serial number. Looks like $100 +
Should be easy to change but buy a gasket to go between the pump and engine.
http://www.messicks.com/ku/86288
Dave M7040
Kawasaki had a fuel pump update for that unit. Kubota used to sell it but Kubota stopped selling and supporting Kawasaki engines on their equipment a year or two ago, so now you have to get kawi parts from a kawi dealer. Going to Kubota does no good unless the kubota dealer is also a kawi engine dealer.
The old style pump-which is what you have-has a vent hole (which is what's in your picture). The diaphragm would begin to leak, and since the muffler was directly below, it was a source of many burned mowers including my neighbor's JD 345, which also nearly killed him. The new pumps have a nipple where the vent is, and there is a hose that goes on the nipple that needs to be routed away from the muffler somewhere. I run it down the frame rail towards the rear, it's not real long. I'd like it to be longer and routed more towards the rear but the way it's designed, it would be tough to do because the muffler pipe coming off of the cyl head is right there in the way more or less.
The old style pump-which is what you have-has a vent hole (which is what's in your picture). The diaphragm would begin to leak, and since the muffler was directly below, it was a source of many burned mowers including my neighbor's JD 345, which also nearly killed him. The new pumps have a nipple where the vent is, and there is a hose that goes on the nipple that needs to be routed away from the muffler somewhere. I run it down the frame rail towards the rear, it's not real long. I'd like it to be longer and routed more towards the rear but the way it's designed, it would be tough to do because the muffler pipe coming off of the cyl head is right there in the way more or less.
Ok i put the new fuel pump on. Started right away..... But then died..... I am assuming that I burned out the old fuel....... Now it won't start but it does with starting fluid....... So i have fuel to the pump..... But is there a priming procedure to do ? T1760.....
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
No priming that I know of. As long as fuel's getting to it, it "should" work. Remove the "out" line and crank engine. Does it squirt fuel out? It should. If not, the push rod may not be making contact with the pump arm, disassemble and re-try.
Where is the filter, likely between the new pump and the carb.
With a new pump sucking strong it may have sucked up enough crud to block the filter. I have good luck with automotive style pleated paper filters. They come in clear plastic and metal but internally both the same. I use the metal housing one just because it will dent before it breaks whereas I think you could crack the plastic one.
I would pull the spark plug wires and place them so they cannot make a spark against the engine or even better, take old plugs close the plug gap to zero, i.e. touching and lightly reinstall them.
This image is of the plastic housing one so you can see its internals. Some are made to fit two different sizes of fuel hose which is convenient if you have more than one machine.
Remove the fuel line at the carb and direct the end into a metal can so you can see what is coming out. If there is a strong pulse of gasoline, change the filter and see if there is any change. If you still have a no start condition then perhaps the choke is not closing or, you have carb issues.
If no fuel comes out the open line then follow lugbolt's suggestion
Dave
Last edited:
Check the shut off solenoid on the bottom of the carb. Should hear a click when you turn the key to the on position. If not look for the wire going to the carb bowl. That would be your shut off solenoid. Should be able to feel it click of you hold it and turn the key from on to off and vice versa. Just to the on position not the start position.
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk