I have a T1760 that I see has a reservoir for the transmission. How full is this reservoir suppose to be? What type of oil? The owners manual I have doesn't cover the T1760. Thanks.
T1760 Add Fluid to XMSN
- Thread starter Fishin
- Start date
It's a Hydrogear transmission, IIRC.
Most of them have a check plug in the side of the housing, usually 6mm allen head plug, normally on the center part to the left side and about 3/4 the way up the trans (close to the top). Real bear to get to them on the 1460 and 1560. They take 20w50. I ran one with Super UDT at one time and it's still running just fine as well. And quieter than 20w50.
Kubota calls it a non-serviceable HST, was always explained to me that if it ain't leaking, don't mess with it. That said, on my T1560, I did a fluid change and it helped dramatically. Old oil came out NASTY (pitch black, thick). Replaced with 20w50 Synthetic from work. Had to remove it and turn it upside down to drain it.
The T-60 series were GOOD mowers! Super simple, and that is what I liked best about them.
Most of them have a check plug in the side of the housing, usually 6mm allen head plug, normally on the center part to the left side and about 3/4 the way up the trans (close to the top). Real bear to get to them on the 1460 and 1560. They take 20w50. I ran one with Super UDT at one time and it's still running just fine as well. And quieter than 20w50.
Kubota calls it a non-serviceable HST, was always explained to me that if it ain't leaking, don't mess with it. That said, on my T1560, I did a fluid change and it helped dramatically. Old oil came out NASTY (pitch black, thick). Replaced with 20w50 Synthetic from work. Had to remove it and turn it upside down to drain it.
The T-60 series were GOOD mowers! Super simple, and that is what I liked best about them.
Mine has a reservoir. I found the fill mark on the reservoir. It's right on. Tractor is moving faster in reverse than forward. I will look for a drain plug and change the fluid. Thanks.
I did a fluid change and it did help. But after a while it returned to slow in forward. Reverse is fine. Is it practical to rebuild these xmsn's? Thanks.
Last edited:
Look at the HST pedal linkage on the transmission. I don't remember on the 1760, but the 1460 and 1560 (and GR2100/2110 as well) have a little set screw in the linkage that keeps it from falling off of it's shaft. I've seen more than one of them with that set screw loose. And it'll cause exactly what you're talking about-works faster in one direction.
If it's tight, have a look at the link from the pedal to transaxle. Make sure it's all tight/not worn out. If all that is good, you can adjust the HST pedal stops themselves.
If it's tight, have a look at the link from the pedal to transaxle. Make sure it's all tight/not worn out. If all that is good, you can adjust the HST pedal stops themselves.
Yea, linkage, fluid , belt, etc. is good. It's making a whining noise when it moves forward but after a while it just stops. Reverse is fine. Anyone been into these for a rebuild/fix? Thanks.
It can be repaired but is it cost feasible? You'd have to know what's wrong inside before making that decision. There is a filter inside of it. Was the oil you drained out contaminated? Any metal chips or filings in the oil? Did you check the set screw yet? What kind of oil did you put back in?
Linkage and set screw is fine. Oil looked good. No metal chips. I got the oil from the Kabota dealer. Thanks.
I know this is an old tread but I am trying to contact Lugbolt with a question.
I tried PM but his quota is filled and will accept no more.
I guess he does not check them often.
This is my question if anyone else has more input:
You mentioned that the check plug was on the left side up high.
I cannot locate any removeable plugs.
I have the tractor jacked up with the rear cover off so I can see the entire trans if I crane my neck.
Do you have a diagram of this area?
This is a used machine I bought last year and I guess the fluid is original.
The trans operates F&R ok but it is noisy.
More a growl than whine.
Thanks
I tried PM but his quota is filled and will accept no more.
I guess he does not check them often.
This is my question if anyone else has more input:
You mentioned that the check plug was on the left side up high.
I cannot locate any removeable plugs.
I have the tractor jacked up with the rear cover off so I can see the entire trans if I crane my neck.
Do you have a diagram of this area?
This is a used machine I bought last year and I guess the fluid is original.
The trans operates F&R ok but it is noisy.
More a growl than whine.
Thanks
My Cub Cadet M60 tank has twin Hydro Gear transmissions and they have no drain plugs but they both have spin on filters (that Hydro Gear sell online.) Hope that helps They even sell an oil change kit with an adapter plug that fits in the top of the transmissions.
What I do to completely drain mine is I pull the cover on the charge pump and drain them from that point. The cover is 'O' ringed and of you remove it, be sure you put it back on exactly the way it comes off. I suggest marking it before removal so you can get the orientation correct. It will go on 2 ways but backward and the pump won't charge the swash plate mechanism. Found that out the hard way.
I use 15-40 Rotella in mine but I may try SUDT this spring, I need to change the oil and the filters.
Interesting that Hydro Gear recommends motor oil instead of hydraulic fluid.
Hope that helps. My Cub is 12 years old this year, no issued with the transmissions at all.
What I do to completely drain mine is I pull the cover on the charge pump and drain them from that point. The cover is 'O' ringed and of you remove it, be sure you put it back on exactly the way it comes off. I suggest marking it before removal so you can get the orientation correct. It will go on 2 ways but backward and the pump won't charge the swash plate mechanism. Found that out the hard way.
I use 15-40 Rotella in mine but I may try SUDT this spring, I need to change the oil and the filters.
Interesting that Hydro Gear recommends motor oil instead of hydraulic fluid.
Hope that helps. My Cub is 12 years old this year, no issued with the transmissions at all.
Flip: This little Kubota, has no external filter.
No apparent openings other than what I guess to be a vent on the top of the trans; and that looks to have been mucked with.
Instead of an open tube or the like, it is plugged with a worm drive hose clamp holding it all together.
My old T1400 had drain and check plugs in addition to a screen type filter.
I am stumped.
No apparent openings other than what I guess to be a vent on the top of the trans; and that looks to have been mucked with.
Instead of an open tube or the like, it is plugged with a worm drive hose clamp holding it all together.
My old T1400 had drain and check plugs in addition to a screen type filter.
I am stumped.
There is more than one style transmission in the 1760's. I'm somewhat familiar with the old style, no reservoir, just a vent tube runs up high with a clamp and a vent on it.
I do not do PM's anymore. Hundreds and hundreds of tech questions, I ain't got time to answer them all.
The filter is internal. You have to remove the transmission and partially disassemble it to get to the filter. Most don't bother with them. The filter is just there to catch any metal filings that were left from manufacturing processes.
Noise can be caused by a thousand things.
Change the fluid. If yours doesn't have an external spin-on filter, it's the early style, which you have to physically remove from the tractor to drain it. That or disassemble it. They aren't really serviceable and I do not know if the filter (or any other part) of the transmission is still available. 20w50 works best and is what the work shop manual calls for. Synthetic is quieter, and I think Hydrogear even has their own 20w50 hydrostatic transmission fluid. I have not ordered any; it's rare for us at the shop to get a request (or approval if I offer) for a fluid and filter change based on cost. Those old riders take a while to change the fluid & filter if we have to remove the transmission....and that doesn't account for any broken fasteners, and seems like there's always one or two, adds cost (labor), unfortunately.
If it's real noisy, like abnormally, you might try topping the fluid level off which I think (IIRC) can be done in the frame. Grab your work shop manual for YOUR tractor (T1760 and T1760A are a little different) and get after it.
I do not do PM's anymore. Hundreds and hundreds of tech questions, I ain't got time to answer them all.
The filter is internal. You have to remove the transmission and partially disassemble it to get to the filter. Most don't bother with them. The filter is just there to catch any metal filings that were left from manufacturing processes.
Noise can be caused by a thousand things.
Change the fluid. If yours doesn't have an external spin-on filter, it's the early style, which you have to physically remove from the tractor to drain it. That or disassemble it. They aren't really serviceable and I do not know if the filter (or any other part) of the transmission is still available. 20w50 works best and is what the work shop manual calls for. Synthetic is quieter, and I think Hydrogear even has their own 20w50 hydrostatic transmission fluid. I have not ordered any; it's rare for us at the shop to get a request (or approval if I offer) for a fluid and filter change based on cost. Those old riders take a while to change the fluid & filter if we have to remove the transmission....and that doesn't account for any broken fasteners, and seems like there's always one or two, adds cost (labor), unfortunately.
If it's real noisy, like abnormally, you might try topping the fluid level off which I think (IIRC) can be done in the frame. Grab your work shop manual for YOUR tractor (T1760 and T1760A are a little different) and get after it.