Sub frame build for a loader

[Daren Todd]

Picked up a woods DuAl 145 loader for my L1501. Loader was off from a Massey 1010 tractor. So the original sub frame was pretty much useless except for some parts.

Started with a couple pieces of anflgle iron on the sides of the tractor for a pattern. Plus to get an idea where I needed to loader to sit.

Then taking that pattern to working pieces. Which incidentally were more pieces of angle iron with a gusset welded on the bottom for additional support for a cross member.

The big challenge was the steering linkage. I had to cycle the suspension on the front end both directions to check for clearance. Which took the longest portion of the whole project.


Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Daren Todd]

Next I robbed the loader mounts off the original Massey sub frame. Bolted them up to the sided of the cross member. Then a test fit. Which I determined that the loader was sitting too low

I determined this after cycling the suspension for the front end again. Which helped me determine that the loader was 3" too low.

After welding on a couple pieces and adding gussets, I Bolted the loader mounts up again.

Then gave the loader another test fit

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Daren Todd]

At this point, I enlisted my neighbors help for a few minutes. I jacked the front support for the loader frame up and got it sitting level. Braced with Jack stands. Then dropped the bucket, and had my neighbor help me lift the loader up to make sure it would clear the hood.

Then removed the loader, and worked on the front mounts for the loader frame.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Daren Todd]

I also included mounts for the subrame into the piece. Then back to cutting and tacking to attach the support pieces for the front to middle, and middle to back axle of the tractor.



Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

This also including making 10 mounting plates to be able to bolt the pieces in place.

 

[Daren Todd]

After the pieces were tacked together, they then were removed. Welded up and then primed and painted.

I need to finish the hydraulic tie in on the tractor before installing the subframe, which hit a little snag. Ordered the wrong compression fittings to tie the hydraulics to the existing hydraulic pump.

Then looked for the correct fitting I needed, and no one had them, or wanted an arm and testicle for it Found the fittings on ebay with free shipping for under $15. The only snag is they are literally on the slow boat from China, and won't be in for at least another week or two.

So I'm currently chomping at the bit to try out my new toy....er..... tool, and can't

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[D2Cat]

Looks good. I can see where your front axle was an obstacle to get over then make sure the support clears the steering.

Those two braces going to the back axle, with the two holes (I think) need to be good, strong and bolted good. They take the pressure when lifting and pushing.

Curious what you had cost wise for the bolts on the project. Did you have a supplier through work, or local hardware store? Those metric bolts are costly!

So the fancy fabricated bumper/weight gets replaced.

 

[RCW]

Daren - AWESOME, looks great!

Keep up the good work.

Sorry to see that front weight go, too!

 

[torch]

Very nice job!

 

[Daren Todd]

Looks good. I can see where your front axle was an obstacle to get over then make sure the support clears the steering.

Those two braces going to the back axle, with the two holes (I think) need to be good, strong and bolted good. They take the pressure when lifting and pushing.

Curious what you had cost wise for the bolts on the project. Did you have a supplier through work, or local hardware store? Those metric bolts are costly!

So the fancy fabricated bumper/weight gets replaced.

Len, the metric bolts were pricey The m14 bolts came out to $5 each. The M12 bolts were $2.50 each. The 1/2" bolts weren't to bad. It came out to between $50 to $60. Steel came in under $200, and have quite a bit of scrap left over. Especially the 2x2 tubing.

The pieces going to the back axle are actually in an L on the end. They sit flush to the front face and the bottom of the axle, and held in place with a couple U bolts. Then bolt to the center piece with 1/2 bolts.

The steering linkage was the big challenge. Keeping the subframe high enough to allow full travel on the axle, and out of the way of the steering linkage. We know how much the front ends of these tractors move and bang around when going over rough terrain with out power steering. So I had to cycle the steering and suspension to make sure the linkage wouldn't hit.

The fancy front bumper got sold to another member on the site and is getting installed on an L1500

 

[Lil Foot]

Great project, looks like it will work very well!
Side note: I feel for you guys who have to pay that much for bolts- that's highway robbery! I'm lucky to live about 3 1/2 miles from this guy, who sells new bolts, hardware, & surplus buy the pound. Really cheap.
http://marksbolts.com

 

[D2Cat]

When you take something that was in no way designed for your tractor, then you modify it to fit and do what you want it to do, has to be one of the most satisfying things a creative person can do.

Now Daren you have given others the idea of how to get a loader on a tractor when they can't buy one with the factory fitment.

Will your wheel borrow be in next Spring's yard sale, or Beth going to make it a flower pot, just to keep it around?

 

[Daren Todd]

Not sure on the wheel barrow. Will probably get stashed on the side of the house Occasionally I might need something to mix a bag or two of quick Crete in Sure will be nice to not have to push a wheel barrow through slush any more to fill the wood box

 

[Daren Todd]

Lil Foot, there is a place that's cheaper on bolts. The issue is it's about 60 miles from my house I had planned on stopping by there if I happened to be in the area for work, but never made it. I actually bought bolts from two places though. The M12 bolts were in stock at the local hardware store. So that save on shipping.

Had to order the M14 bolts and pay shipping The metric bolts were the bulk of the price. The bag of 1/2" bolts, nuts, and washers were around $10. I do need to get another bag of washers before final install. But that will only be a few dollars.

 

[Oil pan 4]

How much room do you have on the exhaust side of your tractor between the loader arms and say the side of the hood?
I want to put a turbo on mine starting any day now and a loader bucket at some point. Looks like the turbo could interfere with the loader if I'm not careful.

 

[Daren Todd]

I'll measure when I get the loader back on which will probably be a couple weeks. Waiting on a couple fittings to come in before I can install the subframe and loader. And will be tied up next week, through Christmas.

 

[FLCracker]

Does your subframe attach to the belly of the tractor?

My father in law gave me a john deere loader off his 750 which was made by yanmar. The subframe looks much like what you fabricated, but was attached by four bolts underneath the tractor. I like the side mounts you made for added strength.

 

[coachgeo]

Does your subframe attach to the belly of the tractor?

My father in law gave me a john deere loader off his 750 which was made by yanmar. The subframe looks much like what you fabricated, but was attached by four bolts underneath the tractor. I like the side mounts you made for added strength.

may be wrong but think Standard on Kubota was to use a side mount into the block. There is no underside mount.

 

[Daren Todd]

Yes, the tractor has 6 spots underneath threaded for m12x1.25 bolts. I'm only using two of the bolt holes underneath though. Then attaching the front of it to the angle iron bolted to the side of the tractor to get 4 mounting bolts for the center piece.

The original loader subframe for the Massey 1010 just bolted to the side of the tractor and to the rear axle. But that tractor has a frame that the subframe bolted to.

The L1501 doesn't have a frame as the newer tractors do, so I had to come up with something to keep the tractor from splitting in half when using the loader

 

[capt.fred]

I've had my L295 for more than 30 years. It's actually a grey unit, perhaps 2601. Well anyway I found long ago, the L295 parts fit.
Trying to pull vines in my swamp, I finally burned out the clutch, the 2nd time in 30 years. OK, here's my point and question. My loader has Bush Hog decals on it. My question is, I want to purchase another used Kubota tractor 50hp or better. Will my Bush Hog loader fit an other larger Kubota?

 

[D2Cat]

I just typed in the bush hog number on your loader and came up with this. It list, apparently, the tractors that loader fits.

http://www.messicks.com/bh/4153