Stupid brake adjusting nut!! B26

[jjverb]

I noticed when I was braking today that my right rear tire just locked and kept on going when going down my chip and tar (loose pea gravel in places) driveway with an 11 degree angle.

Actually couldn't stop for a time downhill.

So, check the forum posts and find a nice diagram that shows where the brake adjustment nuts and screw barrel for tightening up the adjustment. (thank you forum!!!)

OK. So I got the left nut loose. The right nut - forget it. I had to quit before I messed up the nut too bad. My best 12 mm wrench just spread apart and the nut wouldn't budge. I found an old sturdier open end and if I would have tried harder would have wore the edges off of the nut.

Looks like a brass nut that would naturally be soft anyway.

So, I squirted with PB Blaster and WD tonight and will try again tomorrow.

Any ideas? Heat maybe? Looks like they use the same tightening system on most of the tractors.

I'll probably get a new nut if I ever get this one off. Maybe take the whole push rod off and work at it on my work bench? Hey - I just thought of that now.

Thanks - John

 

[jjverb]

OK, took the push rod link to the LH brake off of the pedal and brake lever, looked close and there was a nut only on one end of the barrel nut. When I tried looking at it when it was attached I thought there was a nut on each end of it. I am the nut. About killed myself trying to loosen a nut that wasn't there.

Anyway, pulling the two cotter pins was a pain, as was putting them back in.

After lubing the threads, adjusting the brake was easy to get the same travel as the RH pedal, so we are all set.

I did notice that there is not a whole lot of more adjustment if it needs more tightening with the pedal. What happens when there is no further tightening adjustment to tighten the brakes with the barrel nut?

Or don't I want to know?

 

[drewzee87t]

That's when you get to do a brake job.

Don't feel bad, I had same exact situation and mine would not budge after days of PB blaster on the bench I resorted to heat. It finally just broke off and I had to order a new one and wait for it.

 

[pcproffitt]

That's when you get to do a brake job.

Don't feel bad, I had same exact situation and mine would not budge after days of PB blaster on the bench I resorted to heat. It finally just broke off and I had to order a new one and wait for it.

OK, took the push rod link to the LH brake off of the pedal and brake lever, looked close and there was a nut only on one end of the barrel nut. When I tried looking at it when it was attached I thought there was a nut on each end of it. I am the nut. About killed myself trying to loosen a nut that wasn't there.

Anyway, pulling the two cotter pins was a pain, as was putting them back in.

After lubing the threads, adjusting the brake was easy to get the same travel as the RH pedal, so we are all set.

I did notice that there is not a whole lot of more adjustment if it needs more tightening with the pedal. What happens when there is no further tightening adjustment to tighten the brakes with the barrel nut?

Or don't I want to know?

I realize this post is 5 years old, so the original posters may no longer be around. But if anyone knows the answer to this it would be most helpful.

I have the same brake problem on my 2011 B26 TLB (just over 800 hours). The left pedal seems 'normal' while the right pedal is much more 'relaxed'. And when the two are connected (haven't tried with them separated) the tractor will barely stop, if at all. Certainly it won't hold on any bit of an incline. I've loosened the nut on one side of the barrel of the linkage, but it appears there is a nut on the other end and I cannot loosen it at all. I'm continuing to let it soak with penetrating oil. And I have yet to get the barrel to turn on the one end of the linkage. Taking the linkage off to work on it seems especially problematic since the cotter pins are on the 'inside' of the link. So not only is that hard to reach but it would be working by feel alone.

Can anyone confirm that the barrel only has a nut on one end? Or, is there a nut of both ends? If only one end then I know I have to get the barrel to turn on the linkage only rather than loosening a second nut.

I have ordered a Workshop manual that will be arriving next week. But not sure if that will provide a definitive answer.

Thanks for any insights.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'd go online to any parts supplier, toss in your trator model number, open the 'book' ,find 'brakes'....and copy the picture that shows all the brake parts,as well as their part numbers

 

[Dave_eng]

See adjusting procedure from WSM

Note there is one lock nut and then the turnbuckle which does the actual adjusting.

Dave

 

[pcproffitt]

See adjusting procedure from WSM

View attachment 61086

Note there is one lock nut and then the turnbuckle which does the actual adjusting.

Dave

Thanks to both GreensvilleJay and Dave_eng. I didn't see the posted diagram until just now. I did finally find a diagram online. Both confirmed that the brake rod assembly includes the turnbuckle and only one lock nut. This helps a lot. Now I can focus on loosening the turnbuckle itself. Thank you both for the prompt response. Very helpful.