Ready to separate front and rear halves, replace bell housing and engine. Any idea how to search threads here for specific instruction? You tube kubota split not specific, looking for info on where to disconnect hydraulics, at pump or where? info on steering lines separation, at front end or at the steering column? does the dash need to be completely removed? fuel tank removed or left in place? those kinda questions. thanks for any help.
Splitting a L3600 info
- Thread starter clark_bailey
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I have to agree with 1970cs, get the WSM for the tractor there is a whole lot of useful information that you will get having the WSM in front of you when your doing this kind of operation!
Take the dash completely off. Easy to do, but heavy, just a few 8mm bolts at the bottom and 4 at the sides, IIRC. Easy. The GST (or shuttle) shift rod can be a bear. Squirt it down with some good penetrating oil. Remove steering hoses from the controller under the dash. Mark them for easier reassembly. Rest is pretty easy.
Leave the tank until separated. If you're doing engine work, it'll have to come off but it's easy once split.
Disconnect the hydraulic pipes at the pump and remove the clamps that hold them together. One has to come off of the valve under the floorboard. I can't remember if it's a 15/16 or 1 1/16 (24 or 27mm). There's a valve under the banjo bolt. Don't lose it. Come to think of it, I think there's two under there that have to come off. Been a couple weeks since I had mine apart for clutch, and I'm doing the neighbor's MX5000 as we speak-which is easier than a grand L, IMO.
The service manual outlines it but it also overcomplicates it a little. What I just described above is the way to do it, and the least time consuming way.
I use zip lock bags for the bolts and screws, labeled. Simplifies marrying the tractor back together after repairs are made.
Leave the tank until separated. If you're doing engine work, it'll have to come off but it's easy once split.
Disconnect the hydraulic pipes at the pump and remove the clamps that hold them together. One has to come off of the valve under the floorboard. I can't remember if it's a 15/16 or 1 1/16 (24 or 27mm). There's a valve under the banjo bolt. Don't lose it. Come to think of it, I think there's two under there that have to come off. Been a couple weeks since I had mine apart for clutch, and I'm doing the neighbor's MX5000 as we speak-which is easier than a grand L, IMO.
The service manual outlines it but it also overcomplicates it a little. What I just described above is the way to do it, and the least time consuming way.
I use zip lock bags for the bolts and screws, labeled. Simplifies marrying the tractor back together after repairs are made.
lugbolt, that's exactly what I was looking for, the been there done that tips. u da man
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What about fuel lines, FWA shaft covers, sheet metal, electrical connections (marked for location) disconnect battery, wedging the frame rails to top of axle with blocks and supporting the rear with floor jack or bottle jack.
Pat
Pat
Just did the clutch. You will need to remove the dash and it best to have some sort of lifting devise. Disconnect the power steering hoses at the base of the steering wheel. Remove all the bolts so it is free but then lift about 3/4 in. The shuttle shift has a pin at its base at floor level that you will have to drive out with punch. You will have to disconnect and mark the wiring harnesses and the tachometer. Then you can remove. I had a hoist on an I-beam and that really helped because its fairly heavy. The hydraulic pipe going to the bottom of the pump needs to be detached. Otherwise see where its easiest to get at the connectors considering that you will need to separate the tractor in the middle. I supported the from of the tractor with a hoist and the back with a floor jack. Although I did the whole thing solo, there was some swearing when it came time to put it back together. I lined up the pressure plate by eye balling it and pushed the two halves together. But it wouldn't go together even though it appeared to be aligned pretty well. I slept on it wondering it I just didn't have the pressure plate lined up accurately enough. It turned out that in order to get the spline to mesh, I had to get the shaft to rotate a bit. I turned the PTO with a wrench and heard it click. Then it went together enough to get the bolts in and tighten er up. You do not have to remove the fuel tank but I did because my had a small leak. I took it off and found someone to weld it for me for around $50. Please let me know if I can provide more help.
Tim
Tim
since I gotta pull the motor anyway, can I just disconnect all the electrical, linkages, fuel, and hydraulic lines, then pull it all toward the rear with the dash? sheet metal, battery, starter, alternator, already removed, I'm gonna pull fuel tank before hand also, but need to get that full tank of fresh diesel in a jug or two first.
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