Sluggish joy stick

Joe Kelly

New member

Equipment
L5030
Sep 22, 2009
34
1
0
White Mountains, NH
I've an L5030 with a factory cab and the joy stick remotely mounted inside next to the right arm rest.

I forgot about my sticking problems last winter until they returned now that it has gotten cold again. I put my sub frame on and mounted the snowblower.

I use the up-down to raise / lower the snowblower with the tang on the subframe and need the lower detent (float) to let the snow blower follow the ocntours. In the cold it won't stay in the detent (float position) until the cab really warms up.

A worse situation is the chute rotation, which is kind of different. Curl in rotates the chute to the left but it won't rotate to the right by simply moving the joy stick to curl out position....and this even had a Kubota tech scratching his head...the one who did my initial break in on the new blower. A phone call and he discovered that there is a detent on curl out. It is a pretty rugged detent compared with the float detent on the "lower" position. You almost feel like you might break something! But jam the joy stick hard to the left (curl out) and into the detent and lo and behold, the chute rotates nicely to the right.

Last winter I rigged up a hair dryer and plugged it in to blow on the joy stick block for awhile before I went out to snowblow. That worked fine. But the rotate chute right (curl bucket out) position is so sensitive that if I get out and leave the cab door open, cold can prevent me from getting into that curl out detent, which is a major pain in the butt when far away from the hair dryer and a lot more snow blowing left to do....and I really don't want to break anything.

I see orange tractors parked out in the cold all around me. I see many without cabs and I have to wonder how their joy sticks work (or don't) in the cold.

Is there a "cure" in the way of some lubricant that will keep the joy stick free to move to all positions, inspite of cold?

My dealer's suggestion was a drain hole. He says moisture (as from condensation) can occupy the space needed for the joy stick to go into that curl out detent and if frozen will prevent it from getting into the detent and so I'd have no chute rotation to the right. His fix would be to disassemble the block and drill a small drain hole. Otherwise he can only recommend the heat.

So, aside from my question as to whether there is any "fix" with some lube such as WD-40 and how to get it in where needed, other question would be how to heat it....safely. The hair dryer is a pain. A light bulb hung next to the joystick and tented with a blanket would be better in my mind.

What do you fellows think about this "sticky" situation.
 

Milo Holroyd

Member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
1979 L245DT w/1700 FEL, 2003 L3130 HST,w/ LA723 loader,,and L2174A snowblower
I think you need to disassemble both detent pockets. Careful not to lose the little balls. Inspect the balls and springs for rust. They must be smooth and clean.
Reassemble with a light lubricant such as Lubriplate. I suppose a very small amount of RTV sealant on the mating surfaces of the housing wouldn't hurt.
(just don't use so much that it squishs out into the mechanism)
Milo
 

eserv

Well-known member

Equipment
BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,140
139
63
Hardisty, Alberta
I think your Kubota tech is right about the detent possibly freezing and Milo's suggestions are "right on" as far as servicing that.
The operation of your joystick is caused by what Kubota calls regenerative hydraulics. when you use the loader on your tractor and you move the control to the left oil is directed to the rod end of the bucket cylinders and the bucket curls back. when you put the control in the first position to the right oil is directed to BOTH ends of the bucket cylinders and the bucket dumps fast. when you go full right the oil is directed to the base end of the cylinder and the bucket dumps quite slowly. This is a great feature on a loader, but when you are in that first position to the right with a hydraulic motor (chute rotator) and you direct oil to both ports it does nothing! Not good! Kubota have made that detent quite noticable because with the bucket you rarely want to use the slow position.
There really isn't any workaround for this save installing a different valve assembly.
 

Joe Kelly

New member

Equipment
L5030
Sep 22, 2009
34
1
0
White Mountains, NH
Thank you, Milo and Eserv, for a quick reply and over the Christmas holiday!

You got me looking at the joy stick block and I don't see any caps or plugs that would indicate direct access to the detents from the outside. There is nothing on the four sides, outside. Two cables come out of the bottom, that are much like throttle cables and they go to the block on the hydraulic controls....to transfer joy stick movements to the hydraulic control block.

I am moderately mechanical but I have no manuals to help so I don't dare touch anything. While it appears somewhat simple to disconnect the two cables from the bottom and then take the joy stick assembly to someone...like my dealer....I fear the "adjustment factor" in removing the cables from the bottom of the joy stick block.

If that is a no-brainer, that the cables can be undone and later put back with no change in function, then I'd pull the joy stick block and consider making the long trip to my dealer to service it as suggested.
 

Milo Holroyd

Member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
1979 L245DT w/1700 FEL, 2003 L3130 HST,w/ LA723 loader,,and L2174A snowblower
Happy Holidays Joe!
The hydraulic "block" that the cables go to, should have (on the end opposite cables) the detent covers. My control has the levers directly attached to the valve spools. I assume, that your cables are simply replacing the levers. Hope that helps some.
Milo
 

eserv

Well-known member

Equipment
BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,140
139
63
Hardisty, Alberta
Hi Joe
The detents are in the control valve as Milo said, they are not in the joystick block.
 

Joe Kelly

New member

Equipment
L5030
Sep 22, 2009
34
1
0
White Mountains, NH
Thanks, again, Milo and Eserv! I am getting an education here!

Happy Holidays to you, too. What a hectic time of the year, I hope Christmas was great and wish all a Happy New Year that will hopefully be an improvement over 2008 and 2009.....geesh!

I looked at my hydraulic block and sure enough there are plugs with allen key access, at the opposite end from the cables. But it is outside in the cold, which has me really scratching my head as to how my warming the joystick block inside the cab with the hair dryer seemed to get my "hard right" stick position working to rotate the chute to the right......hmmmmm. Now I wonder if I'd be better off heating the hydraulic block itself with a light bulb tented over the thing.

I don't feel confident pulling the plugs and dealing with tiny balls and springs in this cold. Maybe next summer in the good weather when I can use bare fingers for good dexterity!

Any thoughts on why it seemed warming the joystick block inside the cab got me to where I could get past that hard right detent....well, it's not really a detent in that it doesn't "hold" the position the way the float does, it is just a resistance you have to overcome while the chute rotates to where you want it.

As an aside, I've not thought to use that feature when dumping the bucket. As you've said, it slows the action....I do have a problem with slamming the bucket when dumping it....and I'm still working on my technique to operate in a gentler fashion. If I went to hard right with the stick, would it slow the bucket to prevent that slamming? I know that once in a while you must slam the bucket to knock stuff out that's sticking, but shouldn't slam alot as it is abusive to the machine.
 

Milo Holroyd

Member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
1979 L245DT w/1700 FEL, 2003 L3130 HST,w/ LA723 loader,,and L2174A snowblower
I re-read the posts. Have you tried un-hooking the cables from the loader valve? If not, maybe, with the cables un-hooked you could ascertain whether the problem is in the valve or the cables?
Milo