Shipping Container Pad/Foundation

[jbolt001]

Question for those who have long term experience using shipping containers as sheds.

I want to get a 20' unit to store my B2401 and implements. It would be placed next to my shop building. Plan to wrap exterior with insulation/ siding and add sloped shed roof from shop wall over container so it blends with the shop.

I would prefer not to pour any concrete and just put it on a 6" thick graded pad of compacted class 2 base. It is in southern Oregon and the soil is pretty stable where we are.

Any issues I should be aware of if it is sitting on a gravel base?

 

[cthomas]

No have seen several shipping containers set up that way and haven't heard of any issues. If going to the expense of wrapping/insulation and a sloped roof wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to just add a lean to post building to the shop?

 

[BigG]

If you are going to extend the shed roof why are you placing the container there? Why not build the roof and frame the sides in? If you decide to use the container place it up on concrete pads to keep the moisture away from the metal. The air space will let the moisture dry out. The same with the insulation. It must be dry at all times or the rust will come. Also look at the drainage of the water from the roof. Add gutters to keep the water away.

 

[Magicman]

I have had mine on 4 concrete pads and blocks for many years.

 

[jbolt001]

The side of the shop the container would sit is too close to the property line to put a permanent or pole structure which was my original intension. A "portable" shed is okay as long as it is not physically attached. I am not extending the roof of the shop. The shed roof on the container would be under the eave of the shop which has 12' ceiling. I am a semi retired general contractor with 38 years in residential construction so I am well versed in the in and outs of moisture control, drainage etc. I have rented containers for job storage but never owned one for long term use. My instincts tell me it should be okay as long as the run off and drainage are dealt with. My only out of pocket expense, other than the container, would be the t-111 siding. I have enough salvaged material to do the rest.

 

[Lil Foot]

Mine is on a compacted dirt pad, with about 3" of compacted cinders over that, then set on (4) 12" square concrete pads. Stable as hell.

 

[poconoguy17]

Question for those who have long term experience using shipping containers as sheds.

I want to get a 20' unit to store my B2401 and implements. It would be placed next to my shop building. Plan to wrap exterior with insulation/ siding and add sloped shed roof from shop wall over container so it blends with the shop.

I would prefer not to pour any concrete and just put it on a 6" thick graded pad of compacted class 2 base. It is in southern Oregon and the soil is pretty stable where we are.

Any issues I should be aware of if it is sitting on a gravel base?

Do you already have the container? The prices in northeast PA are > $2k . For that amount + pitched roof, insulation / siding/ etc I have build a shed for less that is suited for the machines and implements w/o having to move every implement out to get to the last one in a narrow long container. Just a thought.

EDIT: I am a dope, just saw your post about the offset requirement for a permanent solution.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I'd extend the gravel pad 1-2 feet past the seacan, to be sure water does drain away from the can otherwise I really like your plan. Be sure to run hydro into it..gets dark waaaay back of a can at night !

 

[Lil Foot]

I'd extend the gravel pad 1-2 feet past the seacan, to be sure water does drain away from the can otherwise I really like your plan. Be sure to run hydro into it..gets dark waaaay back of a can at night !

Agreed!

 

[Magicman]

Be sure to run hydro into it..gets dark waaaay back of a can at night !

I would use a GFIC protected feed and also properly ground the container's shell. Hot skin can/will/has killed.

 

[skeets]

I know of a lot of containers on mine sites that have been in place for 15 years or more, all of which have been set on crush compacted stone. I have never seen one rusted other than external rust from weather, and drainage tile was laid around the edges, Though you seem to want to make look like it belongs there and I fully understand

 

[jbolt001]

Though you seem to want to make look like it belongs there and I fully understand

At the request of the Mrs. since it is visible from the back porch.

 

[skeets]

Yes Dear... end of story,, I do understand

 

[Lil Foot]

I'd extend the gravel pad 1-2 feet past the seacan, to be sure water does drain away from the can otherwise I really like your plan. Be sure to run hydro into it..gets dark waaaay back of a can at night !

Some pics of my elevated pad, drainage, and rock erosion protection.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Don't work here. Against the zoning ordinance.

 

[Magicman]

Lil Foot, that is a very professionally done setup.

 

[Lil Foot]

Thanks! I always try to do this sort of thing right the first time, seen too many folks try to cut corners and have to go back & redo when it fails later. Still need to add more dirt at the closed end of the container for diversion, and I'll do that as extra dirt becomes available from other projects.

 

[BigYoung]

Lil Foot, your container has a great paint job. If you painted it could you advise of brand/type of paint and tell us about the prep work? Thanks, I have one that could use a paint upgrade.

 

[Lil Foot]

Lil Foot, your container has a great paint job. If you painted it could you advise of brand/type of paint and tell us about the prep work? Thanks, I have one that could use a paint upgrade.

Thanks!
Prep work was easy, just pressure washed it.
Don't remember the brand, but I went to Lowe's and asked for the best latex paint that would work on a metal shipping container.
Bought a 5 gal pail and shot it with an airless. Took maybe 20 mins to shoot, but an hour to clean the airless.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

NICE! gotta wonder HOW the can got dropped with trees so close to it. Done right the first time, you can 'close the book' on that project and move onto the next one.....
sure it a pretty area ....