Rotary Tiller advice needed.

[57plymouth]

I'm looking for a tiller to break up my existing garden, and add additional planting areas. My soil is sandy and fairly dry, but it has thick grass on most of it. I've tried cutting through with my disc harrow, but it's a worn out home made unit that just can't seem to get through the grass.

My tractor is a Kubota L3901 HST, 4wd.

I'm not brand specific, and I don't really care what color paint is on it. I'm looking to buy once, and I want something that will last. I currently have a 5ft bush hog, and that seems about the right size for this tractor. Do I want to stay with a 5ft tiller? Is that too much for a 39hp tractor with a hydrostat transmission? What brand do you suggest? Is the County Line from Tractor Supply any good? Should I spend more to get a Land Pride from my Kubota dealer? If I look for a used ones, what should I inspect when I go to look at them?

All advice and experience is welcome.

 

[JonM]

for something like that i would not do the cheap china stuff. i got a landpride one after doing a ton of research.

i went with a landpride rtr2570 reverse tine. do not do a reverse tine if you got a lot of larger rocks or roots your dealing with. tillers are not the thing if your doing a LOT of it every year they are very slow. very slow

but if your breaking fresh ground you might want an actual plow then you could use your existing equipment for final prep.

 

[JasonW]

I have a Terraforce YJR 074. It is the heavy duty version, strength and weight.

I did run it back when I had my L3800HST on a small existing garden and it was all it wanted. Wouldn’t recommend that wide on a L3091. HST is a plus because you can go as slow as needed. Also lower the skid shoes for a shallower pass.

I did buy mine used but it was used once on a very small garden once. Most other tillers I’ve seen for sale looked pretty rough.

A turning plow would also be good. Then use the disc. Look for a disc plow, good for new ground where there are roots and/or unknown objects. I found out about them a few years ago and now I have two of them. And 50’s Dearborn 2 bottom and a newer Tufline 3 bottom.

 

[GrumpyFarmer]

I’m not familiar with your soil, but I have. Two tillers (one for my b and one for my mx). I run a 58” on my b2650…so I would be shocked if your L would not handle a 60” ish with ease. (My thought would be to at least cover the tracks of the tractor)

I am a fan a reverse rotation, they seem to work much better, and will leave a very nice seedbed to plant into.

regarding your grass in the area you want to till (I understand you did not ask), before tilling I would kill that grass off before try to till (it will give you organic material…but you want it dead). Several options…you can scrape it off with the bucket and compost and put back in after it’s died off, you could use a herbicide to kill it…wait a few weeks then till, or lay some tarp/plastic over top and the sun will take care of it… or don’t. If do nothing it’s going to leave clumps(and they can take root again potentially) when you till and will make planting harder (at least it will for a regular garden unless using a drill or something, but in that case no need the tiller).

before get too happy with the throttle I would try to figure out if anything that would do damage is under the sod.

 

[Flintknapper]

I don't know if this helps or not, but my soil conditions sound like they might be similar to yours. (Sandy Loam, dry with a VERY heavy mat of grass), virgin ground if you will.

I run a 4' tiller behind my L2350DT (20 PTO hp) and if I go fairly slow, you can see the results in the video below.
This is a single pass. Addtional passes would smooth things more and chop up the grass roots better, but I did not need to plow or disc anything ahead of the tiller.

 

[JasonW]

A little more information about the forward or reverse rotation.
The reverse rotations can throw rocks/roots up back at the operator.

With a forward rotation model it will pick itself up and over the object and throw it out the back. Thats where a heavier model helps keep it down and not just climb on top of hard dirt.

Defiantly have a slip clutch and adjust it accordingly.

 

[Flintknapper]

A little more information about the forward or reverse rotation.
The reverse rotations can throw rocks/roots up back at the operator.

With a forward rotation model it will pick itself up and over the object and throw it out the back. Thats where a heavier model helps keep it down and not just climb on top of hard dirt.

Defiantly have a slip clutch and adjust it accordingly.

^^^^^

Agree with the above. Addtionally, reverse rotation requires a bit more PTO hp. OP would do well to buy a ruggedly built unit with some weight to it. There are chain drive and gear drive units as well, so a bit of research is in order if one wishes to be a 'smart/informed' buyer.

A Mohawk tiller has served me well, very well built, but other units are good too.

 

[Fido Farms]

I use a L3901 hst and a Land Pride 72" RTA tiller with no problems. I wouldn't buy a gear drive Tiller of any kind personally.

 

[FrozenInTime]

I have a 50" RTR Landpride behind my BX2370. I bought it to break up soil that had cattle running over it for many years. First time I went slow and it churned it up with no problems. I have sandy loam also. I rarely have a rock to deal with, it has worked great for 10 years. My garden is only 60x70 but I would not hesitate to use it on larger plots, I actually have a couple times. I must say it lays down a heck of a seed bed.
I think you'd be able to handle a 60" easily. A used one, look at bearings, chains and tines. If the tines are very worn, there's your first clue.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

My 2501 handles a 5 footer with no problem.

My land is “stupid rocky” so I went with a forward tilling model. I wanted it to “jump” when it hit a big old rock.

I went with the “slip clutch” model, although I am not 100% sure I would do that again….Having to maintain it is a minor PITA, but I guess so would having to stop and change "shear bolts”????

Theres no “free lunch” I guess

I got a LP model, but that was mostly because I was doing a “package deal” so it was the most convenient way for me to get it.

Good luck

 

[netspyder]

watching this thread because i'm also in the market for one of these. my L3010 has 25hp at the pto, and i'm pretty much looking at 60" ones new, although if i could pick up a 72" for super cheap i wouldn't hesitate. @Fido Farms why do you not recommend a gear drive ever? are they prone to rust/failure?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

5' ( 60 inch) tiller is a good size for your tractor. I have an italian made 'Montana', heavy and works great. I've 'side shifted' it to cover the right tire track as my D-14 is 6' wide. This allows me the option of leaving the left track which becomes the footpath, with a 5' tilled bed. I know most guys don't do this but well, you need a place to walk and 5' beds are easy to reach from either side. Also no weeds in the 'track' path.

Your disc should be able to cut through the sod. For virgin ground I set the discs straight and add 300# of ballast on the real discs. This gets the discs to slice down and deep. After 2-3 passes, I angle the discs mild, go over the ground, next pass, more angle. It does help if the sod is damp.

 

[57plymouth]

My discs are not adjustable. It is a home made unit. It doesn't do much of anything unless the ground is already broken up.

I'm trying to break up sod in several new areas to plant wildflower meadows. If I don't kill all of the grass it is not as important as if I were growing vegetables.

What is the most reliable and reputable brand?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I've only ever bought ONE tiller in my lifetime and I know it'll outlive me.
Can you get a neighbour to PLOW your 'garden' areas ? That would be ideal.
Chewing up 'virgin' sod is a SLOW process for any tiller.
I had to run a subsoler through neighbours 1ac garden patch as it'd been notilled for decades. even then, 1st gear,low, full throttle and D-14 wasn't happy, then used plow,several times, then discs and chains, finally the tiller. It'd need 100yds of compost to 'fluffy' it up though.
Ideally you want to 'churn up' at least 18-24" soil before tilling.