Removing bx tie rod

[Joninct]

Any suggestions? The left was an issue but I dealt with it. The right one was so seized that I had to sawzall it off. Now the issue is how does one unscrew it from the steering rod? It just spins. The other side I was able to vise grip the other tie rod and it held it to break loose. Won't work on the right side because it just loosens the new tie rod.
I see there is an indent for a very slim open end wrench which of course I don't have. And I tried narrow vise grips but then I can't fit the wrench on the rod to loosen. Please help. It's in the middle of the driveway.

 

[D2Cat]

Jon, my brain's clogged. Can you send a picture?

 

[Dave_eng]

A picture would be a big help in explaining the challenge you face.
It is not uncommon to make your own special tools.
Need a thin open end wrench: start with a high quality standard one and grind it down in thickness. Keep dipping it in water as you grind so as to not affect the heat treating the wrench would have.
Decide if you need the thinness on one side or both to help you determine if you are grinding down one or both sides of the wrench to reach the desired thinness.
Dave M7040

 

[Joninct]

It gets worse. I went to my friends shop and borrowed his wrenches. I was able to get it off thankfully. Now the issue is that the castle nut is totally seized on the cut off portion on the hub. It's my fault but I had no other option because there is no way to get a hold of the shaft and loosen the nut. The nut is only there to prevent it from coming out. I can barely get a pair of vise grips on it and they slip off. I have used all kinds of penetrant and heat but it won't budge. There is also a lot of slop as the tie rod was so worn it appears to have elongated the hole. I literally don't know what to do short of removing the whole hub and replacing. FML

 

[Dave_eng]

I got this image from Messicks web site.

What is the number on the nut you cannot remove?

Have you ever used a "nut splitter" It literally drives a chisel end into a nut cracking it and making removal of even the most seized nut much easier.
They are not expensive unless you go to the extreme.
Some auto parts places who loan tools may have one.
Try googling "nut splitter."

Dave M7040

 

[Tooljunkie]

Drill it. Right up through stud. Start small and go bigger til nut falls off. Or grind off nut. Give it a weld to kee it from turning, rattle it off with air impact or air chisel and grind weld away.

 

[Joninct]

#80. The tie rod end part#70 I cut off just above the hub flange. So their is literally only 1/16" of material left. Vise grips keep popping off. I just heated it up again until it was red hot. Let it cool and when I can get the vise grips to hold I can tighten it ever so slightly and loosen ever so slightly but it still wont come loose. I think I will have to find a welder and weld on a bolt to the piece and see if that will work if not I don't know.
BTW the nut is tapered so I cant drive it down. It has to come up and out and that damn castle nut is seized!

 

[Dave_eng]

I am not being critical but suggest you are not using the correct technical terms to describe some of the parts and being correct will only make is easier for those trying to understand your problem help you. When you state "BTW the nut is tapered," really what you are talking about is the tapered stud that is an integral part of the tie rod end. It is designed to wedge itself into the tapered hole in the hub G125.

Grind the castellated nut remnants off the tapered stud until the nut is literally all gone and there is nothing protruding from the hub. Then drive the tapered stud out backwards.
Drilling, as has been suggested, will work but to me it is a lot of work especially since you only have 1/16" to remove. Grinding can be done with any angle grinder.
You state that the tapered hole in the hub G125 is worn. If you still feel that way after you fit the tie rod end #70 then I would use a Loctite product 638 Retaining Compound.
It is designed for loose fitting parts to take up the wear or slop.
It is a high quality industrial product and is not cheap at approx $50 for a small bottle but is cheap compared to a new hub and the labor to remove and replace it.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-21448...r=8-1&keywords=Loctite+638+Retaining+Compound

Dave M7040

 

[Tooljunkie]

Dave has pretty much summed it up for you. Had you not cut it off, and put downwards pressure (a lot) taper may have grabbed enough to remove castle nut after removing cotter pin. I use air impact to remove. Then i proceed with removing tie rod.

Keep in mind i have access to many tools, this sort of thing is a common occurrence. And easily overcome by various methods.

 

[Joninct]

Yes yes. Sorry the stud is tapered. I was exhausted and not making sense.
I did use an impact but even after whacking the stud down it still spun possibly because of the elongated hole.
I will try the angle grinder approach. Of course now it's raining cats and dogs. I'm not sure how I am gonna get to cutting that much of the nut as only about half actually protrudes out from the hub.
It's a new day and will try a new approach. Thank you for all the suggestions. I'll post back if i get it out...Or set the whole thing on fire..

I am not being critical but suggest you are not using the correct technical terms to describe some of the parts and being correct will only make is easier for those trying to understand your problem help you. When you state "BTW the nut is tapered," really what you are talking about is the tapered stud that is an integral part of the tie rod end. It is designed to wedge itself into the tapered hole in the hub G125.

Grind the castellated nut remnants off the tapered stud until the nut is literally all gone and there is nothing protruding from the hub. Then drive the tapered stud out backwards.
Drilling, as has been suggested, will work but to me it is a lot of work especially since you only have 1/16" to remove. Grinding can be done with any angle grinder.
You state that the tapered hole in the hub G125 is worn. If you still feel that way after you fit the tie rod end #70 then I would use a Loctite product 638 Retaining Compound.
It is designed for loose fitting parts to take up the wear or slop.
It is a high quality industrial product and is not cheap at approx $50 for a small bottle but is cheap compared to a new hub and the labor to remove and replace it.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-21448...r=8-1&keywords=Loctite+638+Retaining+Compound

Dave M7040

 

[CountryBumkin]

This is a common problem (I see this a lot on 4x4 trucks with the ball joint attached spindles) and the easiest way I have found is to split the nut (#80). It was mentioned a few post back. You can drill a hole in the side of the nut (start small then increase to around 1/4 or so) then use a chisel to spit the nut at the drilled hole.
They also make "nut splitters" which work very well. such as this http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-...scplp6824213&gclid=CMfUmvmnn8oCFdU2gQodQ-4KtA
I have several as the shape/design of the splitters are different so some won't fit where others do.
I would do the drill method.

 

[Dave_eng]

Joninct
We are all behind you!!!!!
If the remains of the nut are in a recess then the drilling suggestion would be best especially if there is some way to hold the remains of the nut to keep the tapered stud from turning as you drill.
Dave M7040

 

[Grouse Feathers]

It seems like to me it would be easier to work from above. I would center punch the shaft and start drilling the shaft down. Increase the drill bit size until you are getting close to the tapered fit in the hub and drive the shaft out and down. If you get the remaining shaft metal thin enough it should drive out.

 

[CountryBumkin]

It seems like to me it would be easier to work from above. I would center punch the shaft and start drilling the shaft down. Increase the drill bit size until you are getting close to the tapered fit in the hub and drive the shaft out and down. If you get the remaining shaft metal thin enough it should drive out.

I think the shaft will be a lot harder (hardened steel) to drill than the nut.
If the nut wants to turn (remember you're drilling onto the flat side of the nut) a couple of taps on the shaft will reseat it (or grab the shaft with vise grips).
Good luck.

 

[Joninct]

Yes. Very hard to drill. Was very difficult to cut even using diamond coated saw blade. Not enough meat left to grab with vise grips. I've been trying that.
I may try and cut as much as possible off the nut and see where that gets me.

I think the shaft will be a lot harder (hardened steel) to drill than the nut.
If the nut wants to turn (remember you're drilling onto the flat side of the nut) a couple of taps on the shaft will reseat it (or grab the shaft with vise grips).
Good luck.

 

[D2Cat]

Does you friend, at his shop, have a plasma cutter?

 

[Joninct]

SUCCESS!!!!!
I was able to cut a lot of the nut off with an angle grinder. Then pried and chiseled off the remainder. I'm soaked but relieved.
There is noticeable play in the hub though. I took some pictures and will try and upload them tonight. I will look into that loctite product.
Many many thanks to you guys for the assistance. If anything the moral support is as good as having people there working with you.

 

[Joninct]

some pictures

 

[Tooljunkie]

If you know of a nearby machine shop, there may be a chance they have tapered reamers.perhaps they can get taper rounded enough that tie rod will hold.
Show them photo of whopped out hole and see what they can do.
I have a couple hand reamers, and used one for this very issue.
Take a tie rod for measuring.
Then a spacer under nut in case you run out of threads.
Other option is welding it up and machining new taper.
Or making a tapered sleeve to take up wear.

Best of luck, worst case is a new knuckle.

 

[Dave_eng]

Joninct
Congratulations on your perseverance. I always found poverty was a big factor for me deciding to press on together with a saying from my long gone Dad: "who do you think is going to go it if you dont."

At least the tapered stud is out.
While a tapered reamer might do a great job you likely have to remove the hub and take it to a machinist.
Dont underestimate the loctite stuff. Is is a serious product for serious jobs.

Many of us would like to come over and help you get er done but .......

Dave M7040