Rear wheel studs

CiscoRanger

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L4150DT / BF900
Oct 3, 2022
257
130
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Texas
Howdy folks. Hope all is well with everyone. I was hoping you guys might give a little guidance on changing out the rear wheel studs on my l4150-DT.

IMG_0037.jpeg

IMG_0038.jpeg


I was in the middle of Discing and back end felt off and I noticed that the right rear wheel was bout to fall off.

I need to get new studs and nuts because some are completely sheared off and the others may very well be stressed.

the tires are foam filled and wouldn’t be surprised if they weigh 1000# each. so I don’t want it falling on me while I’m removing the rest of the nuts.

I was going to jack the axle up and use the bobcat to strap the wheel (and then remove it).
1) Is there a better way?

2) also any trick to getting these broken studs out besides welding a nut on and backing them out?

3) when I install the new ones do I use two nuts to turn them in? thread lock them?

thanks guys. Haven’t don’t this before.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
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Jack it up and crib it or a really good jack stand!
Bobcat is an excellent choice for moving the tire and wheel.
welding a scrap nut on them is by far the easiest.
You can weld the nut on the back side with the ones sticking out the back, and just thread them out that side.
I loctite mine in.
Yes 2 nuts or a nut with a cap welded over the end is the best way, as most stud installers only work well on installs if there is a blank spot in the stud.
 
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CiscoRanger

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L4150DT / BF900
Oct 3, 2022
257
130
43
Texas
Jack it up and crib it or a really good jack stand!
Bobcat is an excellent choice for moving the tire and wheel.
welding a scrap nut on them is by far the easiest.
You can weld the nut on the back side with the ones sticking out the back, and just thread them out that side.
I loctite mine in.
Yes 2 nuts or a nut with a cap welded over the end is the best way, as most stud installers only work well on installs if there is a blank spot in the stud.
My man. Thank you sir.
From the parts pics these studs are not all thread they have a blank/high spot. So they may not thread out backwards.

1765218668322.png
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Since you are asking for information, you will need to somehow keep the wheel and tire as vertical as possible and blocked/restrained in that position safely. I guess you could lay it flat since you have a machine to pick it up but the less you handle it the safer you are. I would have some safety monitoring while messing with the wheels since you could get trapped underneath a 1000 pounds and that would not be a good thing.

I also noticed thatthere is some sort of “spring” between the nut and wheel, which I don’t see anywhere in your picture. I would probably get new studs, “springs”, and nuts in all sixteen stud positions.

Those “springs“ may just be lock washers but the are probably some sort of tapered device from looking at your wheel picture.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
34,320
9,541
113
Sandpoint, ID
My man. Thank you sir.
From the parts pics these studs are not all thread they have a blank/high spot. So they may not thread out backwards.

View attachment 166608
Yes some replacement studs do have small blank middles.
When you get the wheel off, if you can see threads in the axle casting (where the studs are broken off) then you will be able to pull them out the back.
 
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CiscoRanger

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L4150DT / BF900
Oct 3, 2022
257
130
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Texas
Since you are asking for information, you will need to somehow keep the wheel and tire as vertical as possible and blocked/restrained in that position safely. I guess you could lay it flat since you have a machine to pick it up but the less you handle it the safer you are. I would have some safety monitoring while messing with the wheels since you could get trapped underneath a 1000 pounds and that would not be a good thing.

I also noticed thatthere is some sort of “spring” between the nut and wheel, which I don’t see anywhere in your picture. I would probably get new studs, “springs”, and nuts in all sixteen stud positions.

Those “springs“ may just be lock washers but the are probably some sort of tapered device from looking at your wheel picture.
Thanks Russell. Yes I’ll def have a 2nd person who can run the cat and keep the wheel steady.

Yes those spring plates are discontinued and they aren’t on either side of the tractor either. Didn’t have much luck finding them but may look again.
 

DONLI

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L3301,FL, MUSTANG 2054 SKID STEER, 6FT HYD. SNOW BLOWER,and other things of labo
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duluth mn
I do not think those studs will come out through the back!
Good luck as I feel for you, its not going to be fun!
Just be safe!
Just my 2c!

Don
 
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MapleLeafFarmer

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Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
839
748
93
E.
Howdy folks. Hope all is well with everyone. I was hoping you guys might give a little guidance on changing out the rear wheel studs on my l4150-DT.

I was in the middle of Discing and back end felt off and I noticed that the right rear wheel was bout to fall off.

I need to get new studs and nuts because some are completely sheared off and the others may very well be stressed.

the tires are foam filled and wouldn’t be surprised if they weigh 1000# each. so I don’t want it falling on me while I’m removing the rest of the nuts.

I was going to jack the axle up and use the bobcat to strap the wheel (and then remove it).
1) Is there a better way?
I have always found it hard to protect the threads when tires so heavy so we have used a barrel dolly to move the tire around which works well if you are on a smooth surface. So easy to frack up.
We use a jack to get tractor elevation right to align and then wheel tire into place. Strap around tire to hold it to the dolly.
A 2,000 pound dolly was only like $100 I think and has a lot of uses for more than just barrels of used oil, etc... I think Oilmart where we get our oil from sells them cheap.
1765226272967.png
 

Russell King

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
6,983
2,452
113
Austin, Texas
I looked at Messicks and see they are obsolete but they have a way to search for parts in other places and they found 30 available at some place called obsolete warehouse. See below, they might be something like a bellville washer?
IMG_0563.png
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
34,320
9,541
113
Sandpoint, ID
Thanks Russell. Yes I’ll def have a 2nd person who can run the cat and keep the wheel steady.

Yes those spring plates are discontinued and they aren’t on either side of the tractor either. Didn’t have much luck finding them but may look again.
Use these in place of the spring washers (verify diameter needed).
Some Kubota lug nets have 2 sides, one side is flat other side is tapered, use flat side to washer and wheel.

 

chim

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L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,861
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Near Lancaster, PA, USA
Just a thought on allthread/blank spot studs. Remove the unbroken studs to see which type they are. It doesn't 100% guarantee that the broken studs weren't replaced with something different.
 

chim

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Equipment
L4240HSTC with FEL, Ford 1210
Jan 19, 2013
2,861
2,283
113
Near Lancaster, PA, USA
For the washers, it would be tempting to use regular washers with conical nuts and mash 'em into the wallowed-out holes. Thoughts?