Rear 3PT side-tilt cylinder travel is not centered

[knelson]

MX6000HSTC factory T-N-T. The side tilt is not centered around the center point of travel. Said another way, there is plenty of travel, but it's mostly in one direction. With a box blade attached, I can tilt one side way up, past where I would ever use it, but the opposite way only goes just past level. At level, the cylinder is nearly completely retracted! There must be a null adjustment or something on these hydraulic valves? I used to work on and adjust Moog valves, but this is completely weird to me. I've never even seen the actual valve bodies. Assume they are in the area below the right side door, which is protected by a steel enclosure.

Can anybody explain to me how to adjust this or provide a reference. Dealer doesn't seem to think it's a big deal, and can't seem to fix it. Looking for information on how these valves work, adjust, and what they look like. Maybe the full service manual WSM might have that kind of information?

As a troubleshooting test I was thinking of swapping the top control hydraulic connections with the side-tilt and see if the problem moves to the top cylinder. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm hesitant to start digging in on a fairly new machine and trips to/from the dealer are difficult because I don't have the proper tow vehicle or trailer to move the tractor around, so they have to come get it. Thanks.

 

[knelson]

MX6000HSTC factory T-N-T. The side tilt is not centered around the center point of travel. Said another way, there is plenty of travel, but it's mostly in one direction. With a box blade attached, I can tilt one side way up, past where I would ever use it, but the opposite way only goes just past level. At level, the cylinder is nearly completely retracted! There must be a null adjustment or something on these hydraulic valves? I used to work on and adjust Moog valves, but this is completely weird to me. I've never even seen the actual valve bodies. Assume they are in the area below the right side door, which is protected by a steel enclosure.

Can anybody explain to me how to adjust this or provide a reference. Dealer doesn't seem to think it's a big deal, and can't seem to fix it. Looking for information on how these valves work, adjust, and what they look like. Maybe the full service manual WSM might have that kind of information?

As a troubleshooting test I was thinking of swapping the top control hydraulic connections with the side-tilt and see if the problem moves to the top cylinder. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm hesitant to start digging in on a fairly new machine and trips to/from the dealer are difficult because I don't have the proper tow vehicle or trailer to move the tractor around, so they have to come get it. Thanks.

Below is what I found on Google. but the MX6000 has very little adjustment on the 3pt side arms. Maybe I can use the original adjusting lift arm(replaced by the hydraulic cylinder) on the left side and use it to adjust the 3pt lift arm height? Thoughts?
Found another post her called "Can I adjust the lift height of 3 point hitch on MX6000", which is kind of related, but in the top-tilt channel. Don't know how to reference another post.

From Google:
Your side tilt cylinder's travel is misaligned because its mounting point is incorrect relative to the three-point hitch's neutral position
. The side tilt function is not centrally adjustable from the control valve itself, as the valve is simply a directional control. The dealer's indifference may stem from the fact that the issue is not a hydraulic system failure but a setup problem.
How to adjust the side tilt travel
The solution is to physically reposition the cylinder's mounting location, not to adjust the valve. You need to reset the three-point hitch's neutral position so that the cylinder is at its half-retracted, half-extended point when the implement is level.

1. Detach the cylinder: Remove the pin connecting the cylinder rod to the three-point hitch.
2. Adjust to center: With the cylinder disconnected, use the hydraulic control lever to retract and extend the cylinder completely. Leave it at the halfway point of its total travel.
3. Level the implement: Using the existing manual side link on the opposite side (or by other means), adjust the implement (e.g., your box blade) so it is perfectly level.
4. Re-pin the cylinder: Re-attach the cylinder rod to its mounting point. You may need to use a pry bar to slightly move the implement or side link to align the holes.
5. Relocate the mount (if necessary): If the holes cannot be aligned with the implement level and the cylinder centered, you will need to relocate the mounting point for the hydraulic cylinder. This often involves selecting a different hole on the side link or fabricating a new bracket to correct the geometry. Some users have found that changing the lower lift arm pins from the upper to lower holes also helps.

How the valve works
Unlike a proportional servo valve with a complex null position, the hydraulic valve on your Kubota's remote circuit is a simple, mechanical directional control valve.

• The valve is operated by a spool connected to your lever.
• When the lever is in the neutral position, the spool blocks fluid from flowing to the cylinder.
• Pushing the lever one way directs pressurized fluid to one side of the cylinder piston, extending it. Fluid on the opposite side returns to the reservoir.
• Pushing the lever the other way reverses the flow, retracting the cylinder.

There is no "trim" or "centering" adjustment on the valve itself, because it's designed to either extend, retract, or hold. The neutral point of the cylinder's travel is determined entirely by how the cylinder is physically mounted to the tractor and the implement.

 

[TheOldHokie]

MX6000HSTC factory T-N-T. The side tilt is not centered around the center point of travel. Said another way, there is plenty of travel, but it's mostly in one direction. With a box blade attached, I can tilt one side way up, past where I would ever use it, but the opposite way only goes just past level. At level, the cylinder is nearly completely retracted! There must be a null adjustment or something on these hydraulic valves? I used to work on and adjust Moog valves, but this is completely weird to me. I've never even seen the actual valve bodies. Assume they are in the area below the right side door, which is protected by a steel enclosure.

Can anybody explain to me how to adjust this or provide a reference. Dealer doesn't seem to think it's a big deal, and can't seem to fix it. Looking for information on how these valves work, adjust, and what they look like. Maybe the full service manual WSM might have that kind of information?

As a troubleshooting test I was thinking of swapping the top control hydraulic connections with the side-tilt and see if the problem moves to the top cylinder. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm hesitant to start digging in on a fairly new machine and trips to/from the dealer are difficult because I don't have the proper tow vehicle or trailer to move the tractor around, so they have to come get it. Thanks.

It has nothing to do with the valve. Its all in the geometry of the side links. Shorten the other side and lengthen the cylinder side if you can.

Dan

 

[hodge]

It can also be an incorrect cylinder. If it is too long, it will have more down travel than up.

 

[NCL4701]

Unless I’m misunderstanding completely, you’re making this WAY too complicated.

The turnbuckle manual adjusting link that came off the right side when you replaced it with a hydraulic link; put it on the left side. Set the hydraulic leveler wherever you want level to be, then adjust the manual link to level the 3 point and tighten the lock nut on the manual leveler.

Mine is normally set for full up on the hydraulic link = level. Makes it really easy to find level, which I like. Of course that has the disadvantage that I can only tilt blades in one direction, but I get maximum offset in that one direction, which is an advantage to me when cleaning ditches.

For rare occasions I want it to tilt the other way, I adjust the manual adjuster according to need (very rare for me). I could easily adjust the manual adjuster to set level at center of travel of the hydraulic leveler to allow tilt in both directions (my brother has his tractor set that way) but I’d lose half my available tilt angle and it would take more skill to find level on the fly.