post hole digger recommendation for 3-point

[trackman23]

I have an MX4800 and will soon need to install 3 or 4 rail fencing across areas of my property. My soil is sandy loam on top, then clay without any rocks. I don't envision using this tool that much after the fence goes in so for cost reasons I am focusing on 3-point versions and not a SSQA hydraulic version.

What brands are going to be good enough for this job without being overkill or overly expensive?

Thanks!

 

[mikester]

Look for used attachments. Like rototillers there are a lot of these kicking around with low hours on the clock.

The negative to PTO powered is if you hit a rock/root and jamb up you can't reverse out of the hole. Step drilling will save you a lot of grief.

 

[old and tired]

When I bought mine, I also got a 4 foot pipe wrench which I had to use to unscrew the bit once.

And yes, it's normally sits around doing nothing... If I have less than 10 holes, I dig them by hand vs. mounting the PHD on the tractor.

 

[The Evil Twin]

+1 to @mikester post. I've had a few instances (tractors and non tractor) where I needed something to get a job done. And once done, wouldn't need it again. Bought used then sold for basically the same amount.
If you do go that route don't go Ttactor supply or other box store brands. Unless it's in really realty good condition. They seem to get flogged and dumped.

 

[CAPT Seabee]

I used to have a 3-point auger. They are a pain as to stay vertical so you need to pull forward gradually.
Other downticks are no ability to reverse, having to twist around to see what you're doing, and storage is awkward, even with a cradle. I ditched all of that for a loader mounted hydraulic auger using the 3rd function line. If you want/need a grapple, this makes is more a no brainer. Easy to snag up with the loader, stores in a smaller space, reverses, and you can see well enough. You can use much longer augers which are needed for the long posts for deer fencing. One of my better decisions on my set up.

BTW, if you're doing a lot of sand as I do, consider doing all your holes and then go around with a loader bucket of gravel for seating the posts. Compacts faster and much more firmly. Typically reusing the sand that comes out, you only get about half the hole filled with it and tamping with a 2x4 still leaves you with too much wiggle.

 

[GeoHorn]

If you have front hydraulics and SSQA already…. get a loader-mounted auger.

If you don’t have those things.… a 3PH PHD makes more sense economically.

If you have only ONE project needing a PHD…. hire the job out…. or RENT it!

Caution: If you Rent a hyd. auger…. Beware that it will likely contaminate your SUDT2 system with whatever unknown hyd-fluid the last renter had in their tactor.

 

[madplanter]

I have an MX4800 and will soon need to install 3 or 4 rail fencing across areas of my property. My soil is sandy loam on top, then clay without any rocks. I don't envision using this tool that much after the fence goes in so for cost reasons I am focusing on 3-point versions and not a SSQA hydraulic version.

What brands are going to be good enough for this job without being overkill or overly expensive?

Thanks!

not sure how hard your clay is.... But I tried a couple of holes with a pto post hole digger and then spent the money to rent a skid steer with a hydraulic post hole digger for the day. 3pt post hole diggers aren't that effective in less than optimal soil and hassle just wasn't worth it for me after trying it. Skid steer did 60 plus 3' deep holes in a day, no way a pto digger could have done that.

 

[Russell King]

You can rent hydraulic drive post hole diggers that can be towed to site. Or you can rent something like a Dingo walk behind machine with an auger.

These are probably faster and cheaper than the 3PH augers unless you have many holes to dig.

How many holes are needed total? I had someone with a skid steer come in and dig all the holes in one day for my fence project. He was done in a few hours in similar soil. There were holes needed every 10 feet for the split rail fencing so probably about 100 to 150 holes total about 3 feet deep.

 

[Soopitup]

I'll echo the front mount recommendation. So much easier.

 

[tbk5]

I had a Leinbach PHD that I killed Ironically, I dug hundreds of post holes in MA in sandy but very rocky soil with no issues. In AL clay, I cork-screwed it into the ground on my 15th hole. It lifted the front of the tractor off the ground and added 30 degrees more bend to the boom pole Yikes. Used ones apeared to be abused and cost more than a new tractor supply countryline model. I needed it now so went with the TSC model. 200 posts in, 200 to go-no issues so far. I bought for this project but I'll likely keep it. I know I'll need to replace a post the day after I get rid of it.

 

[ctfjr]

Years ago I bought a 'beater' on Craigslist for about $300 iirc. The only thing I did to it was change the oil in it when I got it. Drilled over 100 holes in terrible rocky / rooty ground (went thru a load of shear bolts) and then sold it for what I paid for it. It looked like crap but worked just fine. BTW I had a 14" extension made for it as the holes were 4' deep.

 

[Donystoy]

The attached link shows the exact same post hole digger that I have. I could not find a picture of mine.
It has the ability of been adjusted vertically so that you have a perfectly aligned hole. After reaching the preset hole depth it triggers the winch that raises it out of the hole. It then engages to throw the dirt off the auger. Just love the way it works.

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[Tim Horton]

If it is helpful, my experience with 2 post hole diggers has been this....

My 1st one was a well used, cheap, private sale 3pt Speeco brand phd that cleaned up, and tightened up more than well enough to do the work I needed it for..

The 2nd one was a new 3pt Speeco brand phd from the local auto, farm supply store I lived near.. I got it on a closeout sale... Both worked well for my needs at those times..