How do u replace water pump on our m6800.....
Trying to remove radiator to get to pump...please advise..
Trying to remove radiator to get to pump...please advise..
please helppp
- Thread starter bennettboysfarms1911
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I think he's asking for disassemble/reassemble advice for the water pump on the unit NI Wolfman.
BBF1911-
It's common on most tractors to have to tear pretty deep into the unit to make a 'comfortable' removal of a Water pump, but if it has a large enough gap between the engine and the radiator, you can sometimes leave the radiator in place. That's uncommon though. Best way is usually this (generic process):
Have all new fluid and flush materials on hand prior to starting. Have all parts as well.
Take off all the tins (hood, front cowls, and remove loader if possible/present).
Park on a level surface and prep for fluid removal.
Drain anti-freeze and dispose of properly.
Remove hoses from/to engine. Inspect and set aside if okay, trash if not.
Remove any radiator supports and set aside.
Remove attachment bolts from radiator and remove from frame.
Loosen tensioner and belts.
Remove fan assembly if it's attached to crankshaft system, if electric, leave on radiator.
Remove belt(s) and set aside.
Remove water pump.
Clean pump mounting area on the engine side until all debris/gasket/goop is gone and metal is bare.
Coat with a very thin layer of RTV on engine side and put gasket on it. Coat new pump mounting area with thin layer of RTV and attach to engine.
Tighten bolts finger tight then down snug as you would a tire, opposite bolts, going around the perimeter.
Torque bolts in a similar pattern to specs for your tractor.
Reverse steps for assembly of rest of components making sure any bolts with torque specs are given proper tension.
Flush system per instructions.
Fill with new antifreeze.
When the radiator is 'off' the tractor is a good time to get it professionally cleaned and pressure tested. If you do this the 'flush' will only be good for the engine as the radiator shop will have made sure your radiator is up to par.
Again, my instructions are generic and to the best of my recollection of only having done the process a couple of times. Others may chime in with better info.
BBF1911-
It's common on most tractors to have to tear pretty deep into the unit to make a 'comfortable' removal of a Water pump, but if it has a large enough gap between the engine and the radiator, you can sometimes leave the radiator in place. That's uncommon though. Best way is usually this (generic process):
Have all new fluid and flush materials on hand prior to starting. Have all parts as well.
Take off all the tins (hood, front cowls, and remove loader if possible/present).
Park on a level surface and prep for fluid removal.
Drain anti-freeze and dispose of properly.
Remove hoses from/to engine. Inspect and set aside if okay, trash if not.
Remove any radiator supports and set aside.
Remove attachment bolts from radiator and remove from frame.
Loosen tensioner and belts.
Remove fan assembly if it's attached to crankshaft system, if electric, leave on radiator.
Remove belt(s) and set aside.
Remove water pump.
Clean pump mounting area on the engine side until all debris/gasket/goop is gone and metal is bare.
Coat with a very thin layer of RTV on engine side and put gasket on it. Coat new pump mounting area with thin layer of RTV and attach to engine.
Tighten bolts finger tight then down snug as you would a tire, opposite bolts, going around the perimeter.
Torque bolts in a similar pattern to specs for your tractor.
Reverse steps for assembly of rest of components making sure any bolts with torque specs are given proper tension.
Flush system per instructions.
Fill with new antifreeze.
When the radiator is 'off' the tractor is a good time to get it professionally cleaned and pressure tested. If you do this the 'flush' will only be good for the engine as the radiator shop will have made sure your radiator is up to par.
Again, my instructions are generic and to the best of my recollection of only having done the process a couple of times. Others may chime in with better info.
Daren Todd
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Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Sounds about right. 
when installing the water pump, be sure not to over tighten the bolts. With it being an aluminum crank case cover, the holes will strip out really easy. Water pumps on aluminum covers are only torqued to about 10 to 12 ft/lbs. Verifying from a manual will give the exact specs. I usually use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and rock it between my thumb and pinky to make sure and not over tighten the bolts
when installing the water pump, be sure not to over tighten the bolts. With it being an aluminum crank case cover, the holes will strip out really easy. Water pumps on aluminum covers are only torqued to about 10 to 12 ft/lbs. Verifying from a manual will give the exact specs. I usually use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and rock it between my thumb and pinky to make sure and not over tighten the bolts