Got it from my uncle. It’s an Allis Chalmers Model 63. 5' 3 blade mower. It has been sitting for at least 10+ years, I got it home and after a little lube I got it hooked up and to my surprise it still works till the next day when I went in to the garage and there was a quart + of gear lube on the floor. I can only assume that the seals in the gearbox are bad from sitting for so long. I started the dis assembly and also searching for new seals but I can’t find anything. I searched for a few hours, and called 4 places with no luck other than more #’s to call. It seems that this mower was also used with the Simplicity brand tractors. From the research I have done I think the seals are a simplicity # 2108542-8 but everywhere I call said that number is no good and doesn’t cross reference to anything. Anybody have any idea or know anything about this mower? Its serial # 1211.
Picked up a new to me Rear Mower
- Thread starter Kubotajoe15
- Start date
Don't know if this will help or not, found it in a google search http://www.dwogg.co/oempartfinder.h...Gearbox_Group_(3482I124)/2024749/07003482I124
kubotasam
Well-known member
Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Did you get the number off the seal? Simplicity did not make that seal or the gearbox that it fits in. All seals come from companies that specialize in them. If you can't find a manufacturer name and a number on the seal take all parts to an industrial supply shop and they can match it. Or you can get a set of calipers and do the measurments of the shaft and the bore the seal fits in and find one on the internet. Another approach is to find the manufactur of the gearbox that is leaking and locate the part numbers that fit the gearbox.
Take some pictures and post them. Someone will be able to help identify what you have.
From the drawings on the parts tree site it looks to me like it was built by Woods Equipment co. The skids on the side of the deck and chains instead of caster wheels on the front of the mower are common to the older woods mowers.
Take some pictures and post them. Someone will be able to help identify what you have.
From the drawings on the parts tree site it looks to me like it was built by Woods Equipment co. The skids on the side of the deck and chains instead of caster wheels on the front of the mower are common to the older woods mowers.
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That gearbox listed looks almost exactly like what I have except i have the older model with the output shaft and gear all one piece. I don't have any pictures right now, but I finally got the gearbox apart after heating the pulley mount and the pto yoke to get them off. I took the bearings and seals to the parts store and they matched them up and will have new parts this afternoon. the other issue I ran in to is the main gear has some rusting and pitting on it. I will get a picture of it and post it later.
Actually this looks exactly like it. but I would rather not buy a new unit. Now if i can find parts.
Hopefully its ok to post ebay links
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCAG-482486-Deck-Drive-Gearbox-Assembly-Genuine-OEM-/251920773252
Hopefully its ok to post ebay links
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCAG-482486-Deck-Drive-Gearbox-Assembly-Genuine-OEM-/251920773252
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
Like kubotasam said. Try and get the numbers off the seal. More then likely you can take the numbers to the autoparts store or local bearing supply and have them cross reference the number. All older seals will usually have an inside/ outside diameter listed as well. Whether you can read them or not is another matter 
Another option that I've done in the past is to remove the seal with out bending it. This takes some patience, and a little more time. If you can remove them undamaged, then take them to the bearing supplier. If they can't find the numbers, they can measure the seal and consult there little book
The last option since the gear box is small enough to be portable. You have the option of taking the whole thing to the bearing supply disassembled. They can do the measurments and if they have the seal instock, do a quit test fit to make sure it's what you need
Another option that I've done in the past is to remove the seal with out bending it. This takes some patience, and a little more time. If you can remove them undamaged, then take them to the bearing supplier. If they can't find the numbers, they can measure the seal and consult there little book The last option since the gear box is small enough to be portable. You have the option of taking the whole thing to the bearing supply disassembled. They can do the measurments and if they have the seal instock, do a quit test fit to make sure it's what you need
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ShaunBlake
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B6100D; B219; Piranha bar; Hodge stabilizers; Filled Ag rears; R322T w/48" deck
We love fleaBay links almost as much as pics ("tractorporn" in skeets' vocabulary)!
And since his name came up, be advised of his rant: "Without pics, it didn't happen!"
After taking it all apart, I bead blasted the case inside and out, it looks much better now. (I didn't take pics before I'm bad at pics) I installed the new bearings and seals, polished up the rusty gear as best as I could. I reassembled it with some engine assembly lube. I painted it Kubota Orange last night and will get more pics up as I start putting it back together.
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I also have the "63". I used blades that fit woods mowers. Any decent parts guy can identify seals and bearings. I did that kind of stuff for many years. Should have kept a couple size catalogues.
Wow, that gearbox looks almost new. The gear look like they are in great shape.
Yup, top her up with oil and get to mowin'!
Yup, top her up with oil and get to mowin'!
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
A lot of times on old things that sat and now have seal leaks will reseal themselves if you get the seals soaked in lube.
Put cheap oil in them and immediately run them knowing they will leak. keep eye on level and keep topping it up. Eventually the seals will re-swell to normal width and you'll stop leaking. Granted it won't be as pretty as what your ending up with by all work you did... but for others who go this path will be alot cheaper repair.... you'll get a nice oily coating on everything that will prevent rust too and if they still don't seal... then they too can follow your path.
Put cheap oil in them and immediately run them knowing they will leak. keep eye on level and keep topping it up. Eventually the seals will re-swell to normal width and you'll stop leaking. Granted it won't be as pretty as what your ending up with by all work you did... but for others who go this path will be alot cheaper repair.... you'll get a nice oily coating on everything that will prevent rust too
and if they still don't seal... then they too can follow your path.A few more pics, I got it all assembled and painted up and it works great. one bearing is a little noisy but I gave it several pumps of grease and I plan to run it till it gets a little sloppy and then replace it. as you can see in the one picture the deck is pretty pitted. I gave it a good wire brushing and painted it first with some stuff called chassis saver that I picked up at my local auto parts.I have had very good luck with it sticking to rust and keeping it covered (since its made for that) then painted orange over the top of the black. Amazing enough the gearbox is painted with Kubota orange II rattle can and the rest of the mower is painted with Dupli- color Chevy Orange engine paint at less than half the cost per can.
