Is there a formula for determining the proper weight of rear ballast? I have always been of the opinion if the 3 point can lift it off the ground you are good to go. Monday is auction day at the local livestock auction, and I went to get eggs. Anyways, talking to a friend and he said his little B2650 was real light in the rear end while working the FEL. Granted the 50 series is not a BIG tractor but it isn't small either, but bigger than my B2601. And we started talking about a set of plows and ballast boxes on the back. And I started to wonder is there an ideal weight. So I present this question, is there an ideal weight and if so how do you figure it out ?
OK smart guys answer me this
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I match rear weight to the weight of what I am carrying in my FEL. 3-point will lift more than FEL.
JRHill
Active member
Equipment
Orange: B7100 Std and Woodmizer; Green/yellow JD Buck, Gator and 410j.
To me, no. There is no ideal weight. It's whatever gets the job done safely and is below the max. I'd fill the tires first and then go from there. Somethings a guy doesn't want the full load of weight and if you have the stuff to make up a weldment that can hold X number of 12" walkway blocks I think that would be optimum. Just add or subtract to your desire.
Whatever you max lifting weight is, subtract your bucket weight and quick attach ( if you have one). Not all attachments weigh the same so if you use forks, do the math. I added a couple hundred more to my ballast box after doing the math.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
'proper' weight ? man this is like any 'oil' question........ 
'proper' to me is whatever weight is needed to offset the load up front, to ensure safe handling of the tractor.
If you're moving 'mulch'( a lightweight bucket ) there's NO need for 2000# ballast in the back.NONE.
Now if you're maxing out the bucket with say 1000# of stone, then ballast should be a tad over 1000#.
Think of the tractor as a 'teeter-totter'..... there IS a 'proper' weight.
Many will just max out the ballast,but that can put unnecessary stress on tractor and the land.
I prefer to 'dial-in' what I need, so I use a carryall,skid, box of 'calibrated' rocks.
'proper' to me is whatever weight is needed to offset the load up front, to ensure safe handling of the tractor.
If you're moving 'mulch'( a lightweight bucket ) there's NO need for 2000# ballast in the back.NONE.
Now if you're maxing out the bucket with say 1000# of stone, then ballast should be a tad over 1000#.
Think of the tractor as a 'teeter-totter'..... there IS a 'proper' weight.
Many will just max out the ballast,but that can put unnecessary stress on tractor and the land.
I prefer to 'dial-in' what I need, so I use a carryall,skid, box of 'calibrated' rocks.
Well, for starters I am humbled you sent out a mass thread addressed to me
. I appreciate the vote of confidence.
Regarding your question, I am not aware of a calculation that is a catch all for all machines, I think there are likely more than one variable and maybe different by machine and individual use
IMO, on the minimum side, I think somewheres (my belly rub) between 1/2 and 2/3 the loader lift capacity is a good start. On the maximum side, I think the weight of the properly fitted backhoe (for you machine) is the point to me where going up a steep grade the front end starts getting light (so 3/4 of the lift capacity of even a little more as a max). I think if steering gets light that’s a sign.
So in the case of a B2650 let’s do the math. 534A loader lifts roughly 1146 lbs at pin and 827 lbs at 500mm. My belly rub says you want minimum 500-600lbs depending on what you are doing. My chipper is the best ballast I have and at 900ish lbs, with an empty bucket) the steering is too light to go up a significant grade. For me, I have to be able to get back to the barn with an empty bucket. I would not put over the weight of the chipper on mine because of my terrain. (I have loaded tires as well, but I don’t believe that takes the place of rear ballast, at least not in my case…3pt ballast takes weight off front axle in my understanding.
On b2650, I’d be happy anywhere from 600-800lbs and would be willing to do more if flat terrain. I would not consider a BH on my B due to the terrain at my residence. Anyway I think my belly rub works for me. 2/3 or so of loader lift capacity is a good start point. Then think +/- another hundred pounds or so depending on what doing and the terrain. At the end of the day I think BH is the ultimate rear ballast if you can safely navigate the terrain. (On my MX it feels like a tank and incredible stability and traction…JMHO).
By comparison, on my MX, it’s a 1065 loader lifts approx 1 ton, and I think 1200lbs is a good start but so long as on flat ground I like the BH for ballast which I think is in the 1800ish weight range…although AI seems confident it weighs just 50lbs…but it sure feels like it weighs more than 50lbs.
I’m both my examples, I think my belly rub is close, but it’s not really a standard unit of measure.
. I appreciate the vote of confidence.Regarding your question, I am not aware of a calculation that is a catch all for all machines, I think there are likely more than one variable and maybe different by machine and individual use
IMO, on the minimum side, I think somewheres (my belly rub) between 1/2 and 2/3 the loader lift capacity is a good start. On the maximum side, I think the weight of the properly fitted backhoe (for you machine) is the point to me where going up a steep grade the front end starts getting light (so 3/4 of the lift capacity of even a little more as a max). I think if steering gets light that’s a sign.
So in the case of a B2650 let’s do the math. 534A loader lifts roughly 1146 lbs at pin and 827 lbs at 500mm. My belly rub says you want minimum 500-600lbs depending on what you are doing. My chipper is the best ballast I have and at 900ish lbs, with an empty bucket) the steering is too light to go up a significant grade. For me, I have to be able to get back to the barn with an empty bucket. I would not put over the weight of the chipper on mine because of my terrain. (I have loaded tires as well, but I don’t believe that takes the place of rear ballast, at least not in my case…3pt ballast takes weight off front axle in my understanding.
On b2650, I’d be happy anywhere from 600-800lbs and would be willing to do more if flat terrain. I would not consider a BH on my B due to the terrain at my residence. Anyway I think my belly rub works for me. 2/3 or so of loader lift capacity is a good start point. Then think +/- another hundred pounds or so depending on what doing and the terrain. At the end of the day I think BH is the ultimate rear ballast if you can safely navigate the terrain. (On my MX it feels like a tank and incredible stability and traction…JMHO).
By comparison, on my MX, it’s a 1065 loader lifts approx 1 ton, and I think 1200lbs is a good start but so long as on flat ground I like the BH for ballast which I think is in the 1800ish weight range…although AI seems confident it weighs just 50lbs…but it sure feels like it weighs more than 50lbs.
I’m both my examples, I think my belly rub is close, but it’s not really a standard unit of measure.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
This is my take as well on my BX. With the BH and empty loader bucket, going up steep hills will give you a bit of a pucker factor if you hit a small root and unload the front tires. On the flip side, she'll hold a heaping pile of dirt in the bucket without thinking twice about needing more ballast. The BH is too much ballast for most chores. While the BH listed 617lbs isn't bad, it's the leverage with it sticking out so far out the back. I think the same weight up close to the tractor on a carryall or something would be fine.Well, for starters I am humbled you sent out a mass thread addressed to me
Regarding your question, I am not aware of a calculation that is a catch all for all machines, I think there are likely more than one variable and maybe different by machine and individual use
IMO, on the minimum side, I think somewheres (my belly rub) between 1/2 and 2/3 the loader lift capacity is a good start. On the maximum side, I think the weight of the properly fitted backhoe (for you machine) is the point to me where going up a steep grade the front end starts getting light (so 3/4 of the lift capacity of even a little more as a max). I think if steering gets light that’s a sign.
So in the case of a B2650 let’s do the math. 534A loader lifts roughly 1146 lbs at pin and 827 lbs at 500mm. My belly rub says you want minimum 500-600lbs depending on what you are doing. My chipper is the best ballast I have and at 900ish lbs, with an empty bucket) the steering is too light to go up a significant grade. For me, I have to be able to get back to the barn with an empty bucket. I would not put over the weight of the chipper on mine because of my terrain. (I have loaded tires as well, but I don’t believe that takes the place of rear ballast, at least not in my case…3pt ballast takes weight off front axle in my understanding.
On b2650, I’d be happy anywhere from 600-800lbs and would be willing to do more if flat terrain. I would not consider a BH on my B due to the terrain at my residence. Anyway I think my belly rub works for me. 2/3 or so of loader lift capacity is a good start point. Then think +/- another hundred pounds or so depending on what doing and the terrain. At the end of the day I think BH is the ultimate rear ballast if you can safely navigate the terrain. (On my MX it feels like a tank and incredible stability and traction…JMHO).
By comparison, on my MX, it’s a 1065 loader lifts approx 1 ton, and I think 1200lbs is a good start but so long as on flat ground I like the BH for ballast which I think is in the 1800ish weight range…although AI seems confident it weighs just 50lbs…but it sure feels like it weighs more than 50lbs.
I’m both my examples, I think my belly rub is close, but it’s not really a standard unit of measure.
JimDeL
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2380; R4 tires; 54" MMM; FEL w Pirahna bar; Ballast Box; BXpanded skid plate.
BT3101
Active member
Equipment
L3130 GST, FEL, Taylor Way BH W/Subframe, Rotary Cutter, Pallet Forks
In addition to the good advice so far, just in case you do have a friend of a friend that might...
You need access to a set of portable truck scales. Knowing how much weight is on the front and rear wheels is a good start. If you loaded the bucket and then went for a bit of rear wheel bias on the load, you'd be in good shape to account for changes in load density and leverage created by bucket movement and tractor bounce.
To actually do the math, I think you'd need this and center of gravity, and weight forward and rear of COG,... and then use some fulcrum formula (moment arm) calculations.
Like usual, the common sense based on experienced users like on this site + safe operating practices is probably gonna be fine.
You need access to a set of portable truck scales. Knowing how much weight is on the front and rear wheels is a good start. If you loaded the bucket and then went for a bit of rear wheel bias on the load, you'd be in good shape to account for changes in load density and leverage created by bucket movement and tractor bounce.
To actually do the math, I think you'd need this and center of gravity, and weight forward and rear of COG,... and then use some fulcrum formula (moment arm) calculations.
Like usual, the common sense based on experienced users like on this site + safe operating practices is probably gonna be fine.
No formula or "ideal" weight.
Weight on the lift is much more effective than weight on the axle.
Old Machinist
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
X2
Download the manual for your loader and look under the rear ballast pages.
This is what the page has for my LA535: