Now this is a Land Plane!

bcp

Active member

Equipment
BX2360
Apr 20, 2011
644
79
28
SW WA
With the blade connected almost directly to the hitch, the blade will copy every movement of the tractor, with little or no reduction of motion.

For smoothing, if it had a long tongue, and wheels right behind the blade, it would guide itself off the smooth dirt behind instead of the rough dirt in front.

For leveling, the blade should be in the middle with wheels far in back and front.

Bruce

PS: Eversman uses a moving hitch so the scraper hitch doesn't move the same as the tractor hitch moves.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,797
3,718
113
SW Pa
nickel plate,, I was wondering if your one of them choo choo nuts :D
 
Oct 8, 2014
616
4
16
oregon
Like I said, if you understand geometry you would get it. If you're really good a TnT kit and BB can accomplish the same thing. A 6 figure grader with GPS is a different story.

If you had checked the link that implement is 24' wide and needs over 100 HP to pull it.
 

bcp

Active member

Equipment
BX2360
Apr 20, 2011
644
79
28
SW WA
"Geometry" is what my answer was based on. This Eversman scraper design was new to me. I've only seen the long ones before, used in irrigated field country.

I thought someone had simply removed the front of a long Eversman land plane and hitched to the blade. Further investigation showed this was a factory version with an articulating hitch that removed my concerns.

Bruce
 

dandeman

Member

Equipment
BX2230, LA211 FEL, RCK60B Mower, GCK60BX Bagger; Ford 4000, bush hog, blade, etc
Aug 9, 2013
166
2
18
Chapel Hill, NC
www.dan-de-man.net
Making a land plane from what you got....

The last time we did a major regravel of our 1/2 mile road, the truck did a pretty poor job of evenly layering the new gravel on the road.. lots of humps.

Trying to use a short wheel base tractor with rear blade is a real PIA in trying to get the road evened out..

Thought about a road scraper with the blade suspended in the middle of a long wheel base and came up with this idea that effectively suspends the rear blade over a much longer wheelbase.

I already had the trailer hitch on the blade as shown below. I added the chain attachment point at the bottom of the blade as shown and with a similar mount on the trailer tongue 5 feet back of the trailer hitch coupler. Using the geometry of the trailer tongue & adjusted chain length in opposition of the angle of the blade limited by the 3 point hitch of the tractor, effectively limits the height the blade can go down, averaging over the distance between the tractor rear tires and the trailer rear tires which are approximately 18 - 19 feet apart.

It's not centered as the blade touches the ground about 6 feet behind the center line of the rear tractor wheels and 12 feet from the trailer wheels, but that is a huge improvement over the blade suspended by the tractor alone.

Once the chain length is properly adjusted and some minor tweaking of the 3 point lift height setting and top link on the 3 point hitch (old Ford blue has multiple top link attach points that can be used to accentuate the rotation of the blade as it is raised and lowered) it does a nice job of scraping down the high spots and filling in the low spots..

Using chain for the lower link on the trailer works well for turning, as when I lift the blade the chain goes slack and I can make sharp U-turns as usual to turn around.

As mentioned several times above, one needs to visualize the geometry of this arrangement (or see it in action) to understand how this works.. As the blade is lowered with the trailer attached, the 3 point hitch is effectively moving the two chain attachment points further away from each other.. Once the chain goes tight, the blade will not lower any further. Tractor 3 pt hitch doesn't resist the lift/support of the blade by this extended "truss" arrangement as this particular 3 pt hitch hydraulics is lift only, can't exert down force.
 

Attachments

Last edited: