Need to Replace the Adjustable Side Link

[phaser]

I was checking things over on my B7100 today and discovered the adjustable side link, for tilting is bent just enough that I can't even turn the adjuster.

So, should I take it off and bang away and try to straighten it enough to work, or just replace it with genuine Kubota or go with e-bay?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-KUBOTA-YANMAR-ADJUSTABLE-SIDE-LINK-CATEGORY-1-FITS-LOTS-OF-COMPACT-TRACTORS-/360889655181?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item5406b31f8d#ht_1385wt_1125

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PART-NO-ASL950-Side-link-adjustable-9-1-2-center-tube-/150776769300?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item231afeeb14#ht_5799wt_1272

 

[Russell King]

On my L185:
I bought an aftermarket and it did not really fit on the upper pin. It was a bit too wide to fit between the shoulder and the pin hole. I just used a slightly smaller clevis pin but you could grind it down. It was also very stiff and the lower link was just not bent exactly right to fit the lower arm. It was just a bit off- could be used but I opted to fix the original even after buying the new one.

My side link was in pretty bad shape - rusted and a little bent - when I got the tractor. I got it apart and straightened it out and chased the threads. The threads on mine are actually 3/4 UNC LH and RH. I thought about cutting the bent threaded rod off and replacing it but got it good enough to use. It is a little expensive to buy the 2 taps and 2 dies to chase the threads so look into that cost if you don't have access to them.

One work of caution from my experience. There are pins driven through the threaded sections to keep it from unscrewing. Mine were so rusted I did not ever see them. There are some holes (about 3/8 diameter) in the center section that you can see the pins through. These pins need to be ground down or removed before trying to unscrew the side link.

 

[phaser]

I just ran the part numbers for the adjustable side link through Messicks, and that comes to a little over $200.

 

[Donystoy]

I found that mine had gotten bent severely last year and I just hammered it straight with a good hammer and wood to protect the threads. Straightened back perfectly. One side of the adjusting rod had been broken off years ago so I took the opportunity to weld in a new one and put on a fresh coat of paint.

 

[phaser]

I did ther same today with a rubber mallet and a block of wood, but still can't turn the adjuster, rust in the tube maybe?

I sprayed on some penetrating oil, and will give it a try tomorrow.

 

[Russell King]

Phaser,

On mine I hung it up by one end and, using the holes in the sides, filled the lower end with PB blaster and let it set for a couple days.

Then got that end loose and moved to the other end.

That way there is some fluid available to move down the treads.

 

[phaser]

Thanks Russel, I'll try that.

btw, are there any pins in the tube that prevent the rods from being removed?

 

[cerlawson]

It's amazing what some heat will do. Heartng the outside of the central "tube" at the necked down end will expand it some and should make moving it easier. However, the comment about thread chasing also is valid, once you get it out.
even a propane torch may be enough heat. Hopefully it is not the left hand threaded part for thread chasing.

 

[phaser]

OK, got one half separated, and will let the other half soak up the penetrating oil, and hopefully it will break free tomorrow. If not, heat is next.

And on my link those holes in the center tube go nowhere except into solid steel. There's no free space leading to the screw.

And to answer my own question there are no internal pins.

Edit: got it all apart now. Good penetrating oil does wonders.

Thanks for all the input.