Recently bought a L1-285. So far it is in really good shape mechanically. The control board is fried so I plan on wiring it up with switches. Today I checked all the solenoids and 3 work but the one that controls the dropping of the 3 pt is bad, no continuity. Where can I get a replacement? I cant even get it to come up on google. Any help would be appreciated.
Need solenoid for Monroematic
- Thread starter teachingscience
- Start date
It'd be best to post a picture or two of it. There are 1,000s of 'solenoids' to choose from....
Also post any markings, part number, tag info that may be on it.
Also post any markings, part number, tag info that may be on it.
Of course google AI has something to say on the subject...
Finding specific internal hydraulic solenoids for grey-market or older Kubota L1-series tractors (like your L1-285) can be difficult because they are often integrated into the
Monroeland (automatic leveling) hydraulic block rather than being listed as standalone service parts in standard North American catalogs.
Where to Find a Replacement
Since these specific solenoids are rarely sold individually by major retailers, you have a few options for sourcing:
Troubleshooting Tips
Finding specific internal hydraulic solenoids for grey-market or older Kubota L1-series tractors (like your L1-285) can be difficult because they are often integrated into the
Monroeland (automatic leveling) hydraulic block rather than being listed as standalone service parts in standard North American catalogs.
Where to Find a Replacement
Since these specific solenoids are rarely sold individually by major retailers, you have a few options for sourcing:
- Used Hydraulic Blocks: Search for the entire "
L1-285 Hydraulic Control Valve
" or "
Monroeland Valve Block
" on secondary markets. Used units are occasionally listed on eBay. - Specialized Grey-Market Parts Dealers: Contact dealers who specialize in imported Japanese tractors (grey market), as the L1-series was originally a Japanese domestic model.
- Compact Tractor Parts often carries older Kubota components.
- Coleman Equipment is a reliable source for standard Kubota L285 parts, though they may primarily stock the manual linkage version.
- Industrial Solenoid Match: If you can remove the bad solenoid, check it for any stamped manufacturer markings (often Denso or Kayaba). You may be able to find a generic 12V hydraulic solenoid with matching thread pitch and flow specs from an industrial supplier like Radwell.
Troubleshooting Tips
- Internal Wire Repair: Before buying a replacement, some users have success carefully opening the solenoid casing. Often, an internal wire simply vibrates loose from the terminal and can be resoldered.
- Manual Bypass: Since you are already wiring custom switches, verify if the "drop" solenoid is a simple on/off or if it requires a specific PWM (pulse width modulation) signal for controlled descent. If it's a simple open/close, any compatible 12V hydraulic cartridge valve with the same physical dimensions will work.
Will do, I haven't taken it off yet butg will post a picture
Attachments
thanks, in the 2nd picture , you can clearly see one wire is not connected to the actual 'coil' wire.
A picture of the coil where the wires attach would be helpful.
Can you see the end of the coil wire( it's be a fine (thin) wire ? If so you may be able to resolder the 'power' wire to it. Hopefully it's just disconnected and the actual 'coil' isn't open.
I've repaired electric PTO where the coil wire and power lead have been soldered and 'opened' up. Some have been dipped in varnish so it may have to carefully carve and cut out the varnish to get to the fine coil wire. You'll have to scrape the varnish off the wire, tin it, then solder to the power wire.
A picture of the coil where the wires attach would be helpful.
Can you see the end of the coil wire( it's be a fine (thin) wire ? If so you may be able to resolder the 'power' wire to it. Hopefully it's just disconnected and the actual 'coil' isn't open.
I've repaired electric PTO where the coil wire and power lead have been soldered and 'opened' up. Some have been dipped in varnish so it may have to carefully carve and cut out the varnish to get to the fine coil wire. You'll have to scrape the varnish off the wire, tin it, then solder to the power wire.
I checked for continuity and the coil itself is also bad. I searched a lot on the internet but cant find anything even close to it. Found the parts number on a japanese parts diagram for the tractor and the number doesn't pull up anything. If I cant find it I guess I'll see if I can machine an adapter plate and use an off the shelf valve, if thats even possible.