Need help with FEL install - B7200

[Work Horse]

Hey all,

I just got a loader from Coldwater Tractors delivered to my house yesterday. Everything appears to be here and it appears to be in great shape.. however it came with a box filled with a bunch of metal pieces that I now have to figure out how to put together. Can anyone help me out, maybe pictures of a stock loader could be helpful.. will post pictures soon. Thank you!

 

[Work Horse]

Here's what I got - no instructions, have yet to hear back from Coldwater tractors. From what I was told I would have to weld on a few pieces - not completely fabricate a bracket without knowing what's what.

Here's another tread from 2012 - the pictures are not great. Hard to see what's going on. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6427

 

[Biltit]

Looks like subframe pieces?

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk

 

[Work Horse]

Turns out there's more fabricating involved than I was anticipating. Got a call back from Coldwater - basically you're supposed to line up the tractor with the loader, a couple pieces will bolt onto the tractor and the rest has to be welded together. Will post pics for others once we start the process.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Yeesh, gives a new meaning to 'some assembly required' !!! I hope you got a GREAT deal on it AND some darn good step-by-step instructions with pictures !!!
Weld any 2 of them zillion pieces wrong and everyone will hear you say 'ARGH'......
I'm thinking TACK weld and try the fit BEFORE you commit to ANY serious welding...

and yeah, I've welded 2 lefts when then was supposed to be a left AND a right..
Jay

 

[Work Horse]

Jay

Yea, I really wasn't expecting as much fabrication. Sure, a few welds - but not this. The whole kit cost $2400, $800 for shipping because it came from WA state delivered to MA. From what the owner described, it should become apparent what to do once you place the loader up to the tractor. And also he said not all the pieces were likely to be used. Kinda sucks for someone like me who has no welding experience, but I think me and my neighbor (my welder) will be able to figure it out. Sure beats 5k on a woods or other brand loader.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Note: From the subframe bottom loop (part that's currently bolted to the Loader) you need to have 2 bars go back to the rear axle or you'll break the tractor in half, as that is the week link for it.

I'll dig up some pictures if you need them.

 

[RBA50]

I hope you got a GREAT deal on it AND some darn good step-by-step instructions with pictures !!!

Obviously not, or he wouldn't be asking for help!

 

[Work Horse]

Note: From the subframe bottom loop (part that's currently bolted to the Loader) you need to have 2 bars go back to the rear axle or you'll break the tractor in half, as that is the week link for it.

I'll dig up some pictures if you need them.

If you can, I would greatly appreciate it!!! RBA50 has got it right, I've got no clue I've heard a few people say that I shouldn't need a subframe - but I prefer the overkill method, even if that we're true. I tend to beat on everything, including myself - keep it clean fellas. Lol

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Check out this thread.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10867

And then look at these pic's for how the original mounts up.

https://s1048.photobucket.com/user/TheShopDog/library/B7100?sort=3&page=1

 

[Work Horse]

Check out this thread.

https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10867

And then look at these pic's for how the original mounts up.

https://s1048.photobucket.com/user/TheShopDog/library/B7100?sort=3&page=1

Thanks a bunch wolfman. It took me a while, but I read through your whole thread. Sweet looking machine, nice work!

I will definitely be doing something similar for my subframe. From the pics of yours it looks like you were able to get 3 bolts on both sides of the diff in, and then you welded the other end to the bottom of the loader. That sound right?

BTW, did you ever get around to converting to power steering? I see myself needing it eventually.

Plan to install the loader hopefully this weekend. Just finished painting all the orange and black panels and will hopefully be reinstalling them tomorrow.. finally coming together.. minus a hydraulic leak I found at the 3 point lever, doh!!!! Hoping it's just an O-ring.

 

[Work Horse]

Hey guys got a quick question. Can I safely bore out/tap the bolt holes that support the engine to the frame? They are currently M-10 1.25 and I'm thinking of going M-12 1.25.

What happened?.. got the loader/bracket installed on Friday and used it for about an hour before the 4 engine support bolts popped out - destroying the threads. I think because the bracket holes are 9/16s (how the brackets were sent to me) there was slight front to back movement around the bolts while using the loader- and eventually that movement "walked" the bolts out despite lock washers and proper torque being used. Very frustrating.

I can of course weld the bracket to the frame - but I'm trying to avoid that in case I need to split the tractor, etc. The other brackets threads are luckily still intact. I know I can safely bore/tap the frame itself, but what about the engine? I have no idea how wide the walls of the block are where the bolts go in, would appreciate the help!!!!

Yesterday I made new steel plates with appropriate sized holes for the bolts to go through, and my plan is to weld those onto the existing brackets - which would avoid having to remove everything and start over. I made rear subframes already but I'm wondering if I need to tie into the front bumper as well.