Need advice

Harleybob2023

New member

Equipment
kubota L-35
Apr 3, 2023
1
0
1
timberon, nm
My L-35 has alot of slop in steering. I bought new pins and bushings for the link the tir rods go to. How do i remove link to change bushings , etc
 

PoTreeBoy

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
2,822
1,537
113
WestTn/NoMs
My L-35 has alot of slop in steering. I bought new pins and bushings for the link the tir rods go to. How do i remove link to change bushings , etc
This is all I saw in the WSM
Screenshot_20230403-193308-489.png

Mine has some wear in the bell crank (steering lever) bushing and/or pin. I need to get around to it.
 

Nicksacco

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
680
389
63
Bahama, NC
In addition to @PoTreeBoy 's info, you might have a lot of play in the steering cylinder attachment points too.

There's a pin holding the cylinder in place on the front end of the machine - it could be worn.
Also there's a bushing/pin where it attaches to the steering yoke that may be worn. That one gets a lot of use and if not greased regularly, it will wear.

Finally the steering yoke itself has a large pin and bushing that may be worn causing the yoke to wobble around rather than smoothly moving side to side. I believe that's what @PoTreeBoy mentions.

Might be worth checking that all out.

1680607436988.png



1680607544330.png
 

captaintmb

New member

Equipment
L-35
Apr 29, 2010
2
0
1
tulsa,ok
My L-35 has alot of slop in steering. I bought new pins and bushings for the link the tir rods go to. How do i remove link to change bushings , etc
I am trying to do the same thing
1- I was told the pins were not available.
2-how do I get the pins out, I’ve tried driving the up and have read that others have driven them down (after removing the front axle)
 

Nicksacco

Well-known member

Equipment
Kubota L35 TLB, 2014 RTV-1140CPX
Sep 15, 2021
680
389
63
Bahama, NC
Hi @captaintmb.
It was a miserable job and the first thing I tackled starting the rebuild.
Both pins were ruined. Lack of lubrication, rust and wear ruined them.
The steering pin (very large pin) was seized almost like the pin and plate were the same metal.

I made a tool out of 1" steel square tube welded to a 1" solid round bar. It looked like a "T" shape.
The idea was for my lovely wife to hold the tool by the square tube, (and thick gloves) while I hit the round bar with a sledge.
I used two propane torches on the pin (all over - red hot) and just beat the pin from the top.

For the smaller cylinder pin. I did the same thing. Suggest you disconnect the hoses from the cylinder and remove as much hyd oil as possible.

Each pin has a notch at the top to keep the pin from spinning. There is a bolt that simply holds the little metal plate in place. I was lucky that I was able to extract the bolt without too much trouble, but that is really not as problematic as the pins themselves.

The steering yoke has a large bushing (that mates with the pin) that likely is ruined and should be replaced.

The cylinder bushing on the pin end wasn't a problem. Amazing not much wear - but then the cylinder doesn't move very much. The bushing on the other end of the cylinder likely will need replaced.

I had the axle removed since I was rebuilding all the seals and painting/powdercoating the components. The frame was placed on some tree trunks I had cut to the proper length. They were very solid.

One more thing - If the pins are not available, you can get some steel and have a machinist turn to the right OD.

Let me know what else you need.
 
Last edited:

captaintmb

New member

Equipment
L-35
Apr 29, 2010
2
0
1
tulsa,ok
Hi @captaintmb.
It was a miserable job and the first thing I tackled starting the rebuild.
Both pins were ruined. Lack of lubrication, rust and wear ruined them.
The steering pin (very large pin) was seized almost like the pin and plate were the same metal.

I made a tool out of 1" steel square tube welded to a 1" solid round bar. It looked like a "T" shape.
The idea was for my lovely wife to hold the tool by the square tube, (and thick gloves) while I hit the round bar with a sledge.
I used two propane torches on the pin (all over - red hot) and just beat the pin from the top.

For the smaller cylinder pin. I did the same thing. Suggest you disconnect the hoses from the cylinder and remove as much hyd oil as possible.

Each pin has a notch at the top to keep the pin from spinning. There is a bolt that simply holds the little metal plate in place. I was lucky that I was able to extract the bolt without too much trouble, but that is really not as problematic as the pins themselves.

The steering yoke has a large bushing (that mates with the pin) that likely is ruined and should be replaced.

The cylinder bushing on the pin end wasn't a problem. Amazing not much wear - but then the cylinder doesn't move very much. The bushing on the other end of the cylinder likely will need replaced.

I had the axle removed since I was rebuilding all the seals and painting/powdercoating the components. The frame was placed on some tree trunks I had cut to the proper length. They were very solid.

One more thing - If the pins are not available, you can get some steel and have a machinist turn to the right OD.

Let me know what else you need.
Thanks for the response, I must have lucked out.,, I did have to pull the axle but only had a moderate hard time getting the pins out. All the bushings were toast but the parent metal was untouched, the pins hand some wear but not enough to replace. I haven’t got it back together yet as I’m also having to replace a cracked head.