My First Tractor Questions & Concerns

YamahaGuy

New member

Equipment
Kubota B6001
Dec 30, 2014
3
0
0
Geneva, FL, USA
Hi all,

I've been creeping on this forum for the past few days and decided to join and post today.

First some background:

My wife and I have been living on 5 acres in Central FL for a year and a half without a tractor, been making due with a Murray rider that I bought used. It's showing it's wear since it's not a commercial unit and I use it a lot, I've also hired a local guy once to bush hog and borrowed my neighbors L3350 a couple of times.

I've worked in agriculture for almost 20 years and have experience with use and maintenance of medium size JD's (4300, 5400, 5425, etc), my current employer has a Kubota B7300 HST and I have used and maintained my mother-in-law's L2350 4x4 FEL tractor as well when we lived closer to her! Additionally I've fixed & flipped a whole bunch of motorcycles, mostly Yamaha and a couple Hondas, and I maintain my cars, truck and horse trailer myself.

I'd say I have a reasonable level of mechanical aptitude, but I've never torn down/rebuilt and engine before. Every company I've worked for would have the dealer do the major jobs on the equipment and I've steered clear of any projects of my own that exhibited any major engine problems.

So now for my tractor find:

I bought what was advertised as a B6100E on CL for a ridiculously cheap price from a flipper that said he got it as partial trade and just wanted the value it was traded for, no history and no hour meter. I've been looking for a while and the price was downright cheap so I rolled the dice and bought it. When I went to the dealer yesterday they said it was a grey market B6001E based on the chassis number. They still had everything I needed and the parts guy talked my ear off for an hour about grey market Japanese tractors. The tractor is ugly, missing the hood, no lights or hour meter/tach and has obviously been somewhat neglected. Also it was sitting outside and the trans fluid is milky, the oil was black and I was a little concerned about how thick it was when I replaced the oil filter (though the oil flowed out of the pan ok and didn't seem to have many or any metal shavings and wasn't really sparkly). The good news is that its starts really easily, I know Kubotas are good but I was really surprised how easily it starts given it's cosmetic condition, seems to have power (though I haven't spent much time at all with it) and has good tires. One puff of black smoke on startup then no smoke after that. It goes through all the gears, hi/low and all three speeds of the PTO work, no unusual noises from either the engine or trans. It has a funny stubby little PTO output shaft, I thought somebody cut it shorter for some reason but saw on YouTube that others are like that.

I've already changed oil and filter (Rotella 15w40 plus Sea Foam and Kubota filter), replaced the fuel filter and filled it up with fresh diesel with Kubota fuel treatment added. The air filter is very clean so I didn't change it. This afternoon I plan to drain the trans, clean the screen filter and add TSC premium Trans/Hydraulic fluid and spend a little time with it if it stops raining.

So now for my current questions/concerns:

The most pressing issue is that the vent tube that comes out of the valve cover does emit a little bit of white/grey smoke (looks a little like fog actually), it's not a lot and I can't smell it or anything like that. I noticed a little smoke in that area when I went to look at the tractor, but thought it was a hole in the exhaust or just the fan pulling exhaust back through the rad. Noticed a little again when I got it home and found it was coming from the vent tube but it wasn't coming out of the tube steadily that I could see. BUT after the oil change last night it was coming out steadily but I only ran it for a few minutes because it was getting late. Again, didn't seem like a lot and couldn't see any oil droplets, also not dripping oil from the tube after sitting overnight. After reading this and other forums I realized it may be from some blow-by and may or may not be of significant concern. Given the amount I paid and the unknown history/hours my level of concern is fairly high. So the question is, how much blow by is too much? Since it was sitting outside without a hood could the vent tube be emitting water vapor from moisture that got into the engine? Maybe that's just wishful thinking! I've read on other forums that a little blow by smoke from the vent tube is nothing to worry about as long as there is plenty of power. Again, the tractor starts easily and seems to run fine. Unfortunately my compression tester only goes to 300 psi, so not suited for testing a diesel engine.

My second question is about the flow of oil to the valves/rockers, I looked in the filler hole last night with the tractor running after the oil change and couldn't really see much oil flowing around the valve springs, rockers, etc., all of the parts seemed 'wet' with oil but I did just fill it up. The valve cover seems to leak a little oil so I'm confident that oil is getting up there, but shouldn't I be able to see oil actively flowing in there? I only ran it for a few minutes, maybe the oil filter wasn't completely filled up when I looked, though I assume the oil system would fill up pretty quickly. I will check oil flow to the filter, etc. when I run it. The oil pressure dummy light seems to work, I'll probably buy an actual oil pressure gauge, any advice on which to buy and how to hook it up?

I plan to use this small tractor to bush hog about 3 acres, pull a small ground drive manure spreader, pull a chain harrow and a ground drive seeder/fertilizer spreader and save my Murray for mowing the actual yard. If the Kubota works out after some testing/use I may try to source a hood and the other missing parts for a cosmetic restoration.

Last question, I haven't bought a rotary mower (bush hog style) yet, there are several clean 4' ones available in my area for reasonable prices, should I instead look for a swisher or DR style with it's own power so the tractor only has to pull a light implement and not run it with the PTO too? My thinking behind this is that this tractor is old and if I put less stress on it it'll last longer!

I apologize for the length of this post and I thank you all in advance for your replies and opinions of my tractor purchase!
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,434
76
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
It sounds like you got a good tractor. Just a small amount of blow by is nothing to worry about. As far as testing compression if it starts like you said it must have good compression.

I never recall looking in the valve cover on my 7100 when it was running so I can't help you there. Adding a oil pressure gauge would let you know exactly what was going on though. I know I don't like the dummy lights and never will.

If it was me I would get a 4' cutter and put it to work. Just my opinion but if it's not in good enough shape to power a rotary cutter then you are going to have problems anyway. I would change the trans fluid if you haven't already and see how that oil looked. Unless it has been really neglected service wise most likely it's in good shape and will serve you well for years.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
33,482
8,756
113
Sandpoint, ID
Yep little blow-by is not a worry.

Very little oil is moved up to the head so it is probably fine.

Check the size of the PTO and spline count and because it's a grey you might want to verify the PTO spins CW as viewed from the rear. ;)
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,434
76
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
I just noticed another member has a 6100 parts tractor in the buy, sell & trade section. Might have some of the parts you need.
 

YamahaGuy

New member

Equipment
Kubota B6001
Dec 30, 2014
3
0
0
Geneva, FL, USA
This is my third time trying to post, due to my long winded nature it keeps kicking me out before I can finish and of course I didn't save what I had typed!!!! I got smart this time and copied before trying to add!!!


Thanks Bulldog and Wolfman,

The PTO spins clockwise and is 6 splines and something like 1 3/8" in diameter. Does this sound normal for north american small implements? It never occurred to me to check, just assumed it would be the normal setup!!!

I will definitely check out the for sale section for parts, thanks for the tip!!!!

Finished changing trans fluid, was a pain getting the suction screen back in. I have a method for reinstallation that worked for me. I removed the rear wheel and loosened the pump end of the suction pipe to give play, reinstalled the screen with better access of removed tire (laying on the floor trying to install it was futile). I found the pipe moved back toward the axel considerably once the screens was removed and was easy to reinstall with the pipe loosened so it could move around. I took the bolt at the pump end completely out resulting in that end not lining up once the screen was in BUT it was easy to pry/manipulate the pump end of the pipe with a big screwdriver to line it up with the hole (being carful of the frost plug directly behind the hydraulic pump).

Ran the tractor for 20 minutes or so with the manure spreader, started easy and the vent tube had noticeable but light emission of gas upon startup but went away and/or wasn't noticeable after the tractor warmed up. The trans whined for a few minutes upon startup but quieted down quickly. I think I've got a good one!!!

The only issue is the oil dummy light goes on at low rpms! After about 1/2 throttle it goes off. How much of an issue is this? Obviously low oil pressure is not good, but I seem to remember my mother-in-law's L2350 oil light going on at low rpms. I will install an oil pressure gauge, can anyone provide a procedure for this and/or let me know where I can add it where it will give accurate reading?

Given the way the old oil filter looked I suspect the oil pickup screen may be plugged/sludgy! Probably most likely scenario or weak oil pump, any other causes of low oil pressure I'm missing? I already added Sea Foam with the oil, does anyone have any other magic potions or additives that may help if it is the oil pickup screen? or is that a remove the oil pan type of job?

All the best for the New Year!
 

85Hokie

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,977
2,831
113
Bedford - VA
This is my third time trying to post, due to my long winded nature it keeps kicking me out before I can finish and of course I didn't save what I had typed!!!! I got smart this time and copied before trying to add!!!


Thanks Bulldog and Wolfman,

The PTO spins clockwise and is 6 splines and something like 1 3/8" in diameter. Does this sound normal for north american small implements? It never occurred to me to check, just assumed it would be the normal setup!!!

I will definitely check out the for sale section for parts, thanks for the tip!!!!

Finished changing trans fluid, was a pain getting the suction screen back in. I have a method for reinstallation that worked for me. I removed the rear wheel and loosened the pump end of the suction pipe to give play, reinstalled the screen with better access of removed tire (laying on the floor trying to install it was futile). I found the pipe moved back toward the axel considerably once the screens was removed and was easy to reinstall with the pipe loosened so it could move around. I took the bolt at the pump end completely out resulting in that end not lining up once the screen was in BUT it was easy to pry/manipulate the pump end of the pipe with a big screwdriver to line it up with the hole (being carful of the frost plug directly behind the hydraulic pump).

Ran the tractor for 20 minutes or so with the manure spreader, started easy and the vent tube had noticeable but light emission of gas upon startup but went away and/or wasn't noticeable after the tractor warmed up. The trans whined for a few minutes upon startup but quieted down quickly. I think I've got a good one!!!

The only issue is the oil dummy light goes on at low rpms! After about 1/2 throttle it goes off. How much of an issue is this? Obviously low oil pressure is not good, but I seem to remember my mother-in-law's L2350 oil light going on at low rpms. I will install an oil pressure gauge, can anyone provide a procedure for this and/or let me know where I can add it where it will give accurate reading?

Given the way the old oil filter looked I suspect the oil pickup screen may be plugged/sludgy! Probably most likely scenario or weak oil pump, any other causes of low oil pressure I'm missing? I already added Sea Foam with the oil, does anyone have any other magic potions or additives that may help if it is the oil pickup screen? or is that a remove the oil pan type of job?

All the best for the New Year!

6 spline and 1 3/8" is a "normal" pto!

Old ford N tractors were known to run forever on 5 psi of oil pressure at idle! I would say that your engine is a bit loose all around, but as long as it pumps oil around, it should stay lubricated. One way to check the sump is to remove the pan, not sure that is an easy job, after the seafoam and a good hours on it I would empty the oil and place a little higher weight oil in it, like 20-50 or so - it too is only a temporary fix, once the oil gets "hot" the flow characteristics will be the same as 10-30!

the oil pressure gauge will be the best way to keep an eye on the psi.:)
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
14,365
6,632
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
YamahaGuy, the 6100, 6200 and a few other model of tractors had an alum. plug installed on the front end of the camshaft that after many cycles of heating and cooling eventually ejected out of the hole they were plugging.

This caused the oil pressure light to bob on and off according to engine RPM. Oil is being pumped, but pressure to top of engine is greatly reduced.

You might try a search for something like "camshaft plug" to find this topic discussed.

I had a 6200 with this problem. I removed the front of the engine to get to the end of the cam. I got a tapered roller bearing (steel) and welded it into the end of the cam. ONLY caution is: have a good ground right where you're welding to be sure no arc goes through bearings.

Not a big job. I had it apart, welded and reassembled in one afternoon.

I think there is a plug on the other end of the cam also. I pluged that on when I replaced the clutch much latter.
 

YamahaGuy

New member

Equipment
Kubota B6001
Dec 30, 2014
3
0
0
Geneva, FL, USA
Hokie, thanks for the info on the PTO, it's good news. When I changed the oil I used Rotella 15w40 so a little heavier than the 30 weight called for.

D2Cat, thanks for the tip. Unfortunately I don't have a welder. I will search for the info, I think I did read something about that plug before. I'm guessing the 3cyl in my B6001 is the same engine as the B6100?!