I am a new tractor owner, I recently bought a used L3400, I love it! It was working great then the loader stopped working at 100%, it will still go up and down but extremely slow. Someone suggested bleeding the hydraulic line but after reading some of the posts on OTT I’m not sure that is the answer. Please help.
Loader problem
- Thread starter Kubota Donna
- Start date
No it just stopped working out of the blue, I haven’t done anything different to it.
RCW
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Lower the 3 point hitch.
Also, if there are rear remotes, make sure the control is neutral/centered, meaning not in an up or down position.
Also, if there are rear remotes, make sure the control is neutral/centered, meaning not in an up or down position.
Good question, like I said I just bought it and before I used it I got it fully serviced, I do hear a loud whine wine moving but as I have nothing to compare it too I didn’t suspect an issue.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
If you have the 3PH fully raised right up tight to the top stop, there is the potential to interfere with loader operation. Not 100%, but something to rule out.
Just set the box on the ground for a minute to check the FEL (front end loader).
Also the the throttle lever seems to have an issue, it won’t go at full unless I keep holding it.
RCW
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Check for rear remotes too.
Will be hydraulic "socket-type" connections in pairs of 2, 4, 6, etc., if there are any. On the back of the tractor and above the rear PTO.
Each pair's operation is controlled by a lever. Make sure any lever(s) are centered.
May or may not have them.
Last edited:
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Do you have the WSM (aka service manual)? If not give me a shout and I'll help with that.
Like others have stated try lowering the three point to like the mid height and see what the loader does.
Check the quick disconnect on loader, disconnect and reconnect.
The throttle is easy, loosen the bottom lock nut then while testing tighten top nut slightly till it sticks like you like it, then tighten bottom nut to top nut to lock it in.
I did the throttle linkage on my B2601 for exactly the same issue a few weeks back, based on the same advice Wolfman just gave. It's pretty easy. Follow the linkage to the end where the nut is. Check it's the right place by pulling it back and forth to hear the revs change. Adjust the nuts until it stays where it's supposed to.
Loader issue sounds like low fluid to me. Or, as others are saying, sounds like all the fluid is going to something else leaving not much power for the loader (so it's maybe going to the 3ph if it's all the way up and trying to keep going up, or maybe it's trying to go to a rear remote if you have them fitted). But it can also just be low fluid, so the pump can't pump enough. Sometimes having the 3ph all the way up means that there's fluid gone into the 3ph lift, so it's not in the reservoir any more, if your fluid level is low that can be enough to stop the loader working well.
Arguably it could also be something with the loader control stick itself - maybe it's sticking or something.
Loader issue sounds like low fluid to me. Or, as others are saying, sounds like all the fluid is going to something else leaving not much power for the loader (so it's maybe going to the 3ph if it's all the way up and trying to keep going up, or maybe it's trying to go to a rear remote if you have them fitted). But it can also just be low fluid, so the pump can't pump enough. Sometimes having the 3ph all the way up means that there's fluid gone into the 3ph lift, so it's not in the reservoir any more, if your fluid level is low that can be enough to stop the loader working well.
Arguably it could also be something with the loader control stick itself - maybe it's sticking or something.
Make sure all your operator loader control linkages are connected and operating smoothly without binding anywhere.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
It's been mentioned and the response was nothing was disconnected hfappened out of the blue, in reference to loader quick connect fittings. They will, at times, simply look like they are connected but they are not totally engaged. Might go one at a time and disconnect and reconnect to be sure they have a complete circuit.
One other thing to check are leaks in the hydraulic line TO the pump that controls the FEL.
You didn't mention if it was "stuttering" when going up which could be a suction leak.
There could be a suction hose coupling leaking or as others have said, the tractor is low on hyd fluid.
Do let us know what you find please.
You didn't mention if it was "stuttering" when going up which could be a suction leak.
There could be a suction hose coupling leaking or as others have said, the tractor is low on hyd fluid.
Do let us know what you find please.
the two main possibilities are this
(1) possible feedback linkage out of adjustment. Lower the 3 point hitch and see if your loader operation comes back after the implement drops. If it does, you'll need to adjust feedback rod. WSM shows how to do it. Not hard but you're better off taking the implement off to do it. Lots easier and lots SAFER.
(2) possible suction hose leak. The hose I'm referring to is kind of behind the brake pedals, up against the tractor more or less. That tube had a habit of breaking and 99% of the time any leakage/breaks is not visible. Normally it was on the back side. What I do is make sure the engine is off, implement and loader down. Then run your hand around the back side of the suction tube, feeling it for any cracking. If you feel any cracking, the tube is likely allowing air to leak INTO the suction side which reduces the hydraulic pump's ability to pump fluid at enough rate to make things work like they should. Generally the first signs of leakage are a slightly jerky loader operation in the up and curl positions, sometimes also noted are jerky operation of the 3 point hitch and sometimes the power steering will get slightly jerky as well. If you look closely at the tractor in that area (behind the brake pedals up against the tractor "frame", you'll see a metal tube which is roughly an inch in diameter, that tube runs to the back. Then the metal tube has a rubber coupling that connects the tube to the hydraulic pump inlet. If you're familiar with hose connections, you'll note that this type (with a spring clamp), the tube will have a little bit of a "bump" on it (called a bead) which keeps the rubber hose from sliding off on it's own. If there is any cracking of the hose, it'll usually be pretty close to where the rubber hose goes over that bead.
Try those first and see what happens. They're the two most common failure points on the older standard L series tractors.
(1) possible feedback linkage out of adjustment. Lower the 3 point hitch and see if your loader operation comes back after the implement drops. If it does, you'll need to adjust feedback rod. WSM shows how to do it. Not hard but you're better off taking the implement off to do it. Lots easier and lots SAFER.
(2) possible suction hose leak. The hose I'm referring to is kind of behind the brake pedals, up against the tractor more or less. That tube had a habit of breaking and 99% of the time any leakage/breaks is not visible. Normally it was on the back side. What I do is make sure the engine is off, implement and loader down. Then run your hand around the back side of the suction tube, feeling it for any cracking. If you feel any cracking, the tube is likely allowing air to leak INTO the suction side which reduces the hydraulic pump's ability to pump fluid at enough rate to make things work like they should. Generally the first signs of leakage are a slightly jerky loader operation in the up and curl positions, sometimes also noted are jerky operation of the 3 point hitch and sometimes the power steering will get slightly jerky as well. If you look closely at the tractor in that area (behind the brake pedals up against the tractor "frame", you'll see a metal tube which is roughly an inch in diameter, that tube runs to the back. Then the metal tube has a rubber coupling that connects the tube to the hydraulic pump inlet. If you're familiar with hose connections, you'll note that this type (with a spring clamp), the tube will have a little bit of a "bump" on it (called a bead) which keeps the rubber hose from sliding off on it's own. If there is any cracking of the hose, it'll usually be pretty close to where the rubber hose goes over that bead.
Try those first and see what happens. They're the two most common failure points on the older standard L series tractors.
No idea if it’s the same on the L as on the BX, but my BX throttle the second nut on the underside of the throttle lever worked itself loose. Found it in the battery tray. Made it so the throttle had to be held open at anything over ~2,000rpm. Found the second nut, replaced it to lock the first nut, and reset the tension and worked fine after that.