Loader control removal

[hope to float]

How do I get the cables and housing off the mudguard?

I have removed as many nuts and bolts as I can see.
Trying to get the mudguards off for fiberglass, because they're a little bit rusty.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Wait 3 more days and they'll fall off ! !
man that is a LOT of RUST !

ok, I'd think 2 bolts from inside the fender into the 'valve block' ?

 

[hope to float]

Wait 3 more days and they'll fall off ! !
man that is a LOT of RUST !

ok, I'd think 2 bolts from inside the fender into the 'valve block' ?

Thanks, Got them. The cables are attached to a plate down inside the square upright thing. The holes in the mudguard are the size of the cables

 

[hope to float]

Thanks, Got them. The cables are attached to a plate down inside the square upright thing. The holes in the mudguard are the size of the cables

Is anything going to go flying if I open these covers?

I figure if I open these I will get enough slack to get to the nuts at the bottom of the square upright

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hard to say but just go slow and steady. Have patience, THINK before you do.....
big thing is to use the proper sized METRIC ?? tools(well, I assume Metric..... )

as for the fender repairs, I'd use steel. You'll need to remove all the 'rusty' bits whether you do steel of fibreglas. Any 'rust' left,will expand when moisture(aka water) touches it and that'll blow away every firbreglas you apply. I've seen a lot of 'glassover' panels. Look great 1st, 2nd year, then selfdestructed after that. The combination of water, rust, vibration is HARD on fenders !

 

[hope to float]

hard to say but just go slow and steady. Have patience, THINK before you do.....
big thing is to use the proper sized METRIC ?? tools(well, I assume Metric..... )

as for the fender repairs, I'd use steel. You'll need to remove all the 'rusty' bits whether you do steel of fibreglas. Any 'rust' left,will expand when moisture(aka water) touches it and that'll blow away every firbreglas you apply. I've seen a lot of 'glassover' panels. Look great 1st, 2nd year, then selfdestructed after that. The combination of water, rust, vibration is HARD on fenders !

Thankfully, there was just a pin joining the cables to the piston.
I know what you mean about the rust. Funnily, the rest of the old girl is in great shape.
While I'm at it, where would I go looking to fix the float detent. The joystick won't go all the way forward into float.
Thanks for the help and support

 

[GreensvilleJay]

sound like the cable needs needs to be adjusted.
in the top picture of post #3, you can see the cable is threaded into the 'silver' section.
you use proper wrenches to loosen the 'jam nut', then turn cable or end fitting to shorten or lengthen the cable. probably shorten, as cables stretch. Similar to bicycles hand brakes.
Best to 'derust' and clean the threaded sections, light oil, clean them again. Being fine threads, ANY 'gunk' in the threaded will 'bind up'. They should be free to turn.
Now since the ends are pinned on, it's a LOT easier to work on them in the open.
Again, patience will WIN ! Just have some bandaids nearby, if a wrench slips, rusty metal will find flesh....sigh.

 

[hope to float]

sound like the cable needs needs to be adjusted.
in the top picture of post #3, you can see the cable is threaded into the 'silver' section.
you use proper wrenches to loosen the 'jam nut', then turn cable or end fitting to shorten or lengthen the cable. probably shorten, as cables stretch. Similar to bicycles hand brakes.
Best to 'derust' and clean the threaded sections, light oil, clean them again. Being fine threads, ANY 'gunk' in the threaded will 'bind up'. They should be free to turn.
Now since the ends are pinned on, it's a LOT easier to work on them in the open.
Again, patience will WIN ! Just have some bandaids nearby, if a wrench slips, rusty metal will find flesh....sigh.

The joystick has the travel, but when it goes forward, it goes to the right. One of the cables is bent, but that might be from trying to force it. Is there supposed to be a rusty ball bearing somewhere?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I can't find that loader control option in the US catalogs.

But more pictures of the control valve and detents sections I should be able to figure it out.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

'bent' cable is a BAD problem.
I'd totally remove from tractor, clean it, oil it,gently push/pull cable several times to 'feel' how it moves
Ireland is noted for a 'wee bit o rain'. If it's got in and rusted the cable badly the following may not work...
if (IF ) it moves fine if laid flat (no kink), you may be able to 'splint' the cable where it was bent, with fuel line hose. This 'splint' will keep the cable from bending at that spot. providing you have room for the extra 'diameter', it should work, fingers crossed.

 

[zuiko]

That looks similar to the remote control lever I have on my LA480 loader. Look up the remote valve type controller on Messick's web site for your loader.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

While I'm at it, where would I go looking to fix the float detent. The joystick won't go all the way forward into float.
Thanks for the help and support

The detent mechanism is in these caps.

There are some small balls and springs involved, so be careful. Judging by the amount of rust on the outside, I'd guess corrosion could be an issue.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The detent mechanism is in these caps.

There are some small balls and springs involved, so be careful. Judging by the amount of rust on the outside, I'd guess corrosion could be an issue.

@PoTreeBoy go find the coffee pot, if coffee in carafe (If no coffee, make coffee), pour coffee in cup, drink coffee.

You pointed to the control rods not the detents.
These are the detent caps.