Lift Arm on three point hitch

[charliegates]

Hi, I have a M5030 SU two wheel drive. We purchased/traded for it when it was dead. We have got it running and working. Everything was going fine till today when my box blade would not lift while I was working on a driveway. The arms have failed to lift a few times in the past but the bucket always works. Today we were able to jiggle various controls and the box blade raised. We drove it home where it sits now.

We are going to change the hydraulic fluid and filter these weekend. I hope that may clear that problem. However a few questions came up while we where trying to get the box blade up. There is a lever under and in front of the seat. Does that only control the dual connection in the picture? The lever seems to have three positions. Does anyone know what they are? Also is my dip stick factory? I wonder if it is and if it is accurate. There is a small hole with a black rubber boot on it just above the plate the dipstick rests in. Is that hole the pressure relief, and if so is that boot factory. Finally what type of equipment uses that double connection. Finally does anyone know what that electrical connection is supposed to connect to.

I have purchased an owners manual and shop manual and they are both very low quality. It looks like they were photocopied. The pictures are so poor I can not recognize them. Anyway I would appreciate any help. Does anyone know the best place to get an aftermarket hydraulic filter for the M5030?

Thanks
Charlie

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Check for loose rods that should go to the top three point arms, they are feed back rods and if they get bent, broken, or misaligned/adjusted things on the three point can get odd.

That control looks like a by-pass, but I'll have too look that up, if it is it effects the three point and the auxiliary function ports.
Look like the dip stick is factory.
The rubber boot is a vent, and again looks right.
The auxiliary ports can be used for a lot of different applications, like an extra cylinder to adjust a 3 point blades angle as an example.
the wiring could be a lot of different things, like extra lighting or some implement control, they build them to fit a vast array of options.

Your already having problems with the hydraulics, I would avoid aftermarket filters and cheap fluids, they can give you even more problems.

 

[charliegates]

As a follow up I changed the oil and filter. I cleaned the magnet and there was a lot of sludge on it. However the oil looked very good. None of my hydraulics would work after I changed the oil. I eventually took the filter off, filled it with oil, and the hydraulics kicked right in. They also work better than before.

Is there a better way of priming the pump? Also is it normal to have to prime the pump?

 

[whitetiger]

You should not have to fill or prime your filter, sounds like you may have a suction leak. Check your suction hoses and hose clamps to see they are tight.

 

[charliegates]

Hi everyone, I am following up on my M5030su hydraulic issues. I would like to Thank North Idaho Wolfman who gave me lots of great advice.

My hydraulics (bucket and three point) would sometimes work, and sometimes not. Finally they just died. I had planned on putting Kubota udt in after letting cheap stuff flow for about a year to have a good flush. I only use my tractor about once a month, and then for my driveway or short jobs around the house.

I thought about what Wolfman told me and I replaced not only the Suction rubber hoses, but also o rings in both ends. So at this point all new fluid, filter, and various parts. Still nothing. I then disconnected the power steering connection on the Hydraulic Pump. Very dirty fluid came flowing out. I was quite surprised since the tractor had ran for 20 or 30 minutes since the new fluid change. However we had not moved or steered the tractor since before the fluid change. I think the power steering had the old oil because it had not been used. Maybe I was lucky and got that stuff out. Anyway nothing after that.

I had previously reseated the relief valve and cleaned a little gunk out then. Some little black, dirt like pieces. Smaller that a pencil lead. Afterwards that would get it working for a little, but it would die again. This time I did it again and let it flow with the spring, and the little cone piece, and everything about that out. So when it came on it flowed some bubbly looking stuff for about two or three seconds. Then it was clear. I put the parts back in and seated the adjustment. I then back off about a .360 turn.

Whammo, everything works. I noted another small dirty piece right beside the valve hole. It looks like the stuff I got out before. I am thinking it may be pieces of my return tube connection oring at the hydraulic pump. When I disconnected the return tube connection, the washer was very ruff and it appeared very small pieces were missing. Wolfman told me to not only check, but go ahead and replace any rubber gaskets since they often are a cause of failure. I am attaching a picture of the oring. the problems has been ongoing for about two years now. I hope this is a permanent thing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I just thought of where else parts might be coming from, the pump, it's after the filter and if it's shedding parts they will get stuck where your finding them.
Might be worth it to pull the pump out and give it a complete work threw.