LED Bulbs

[kcs 61]

I’ve got a B2650 and was changing all the bulbs to LED. Headlights fine and work. Turns signals done and work great. But the tail lights don’t work with LED’s. Regular bulbs they work fine. Put in LED and they don’t work. And thoughts or ideas. Thanks in advance for any help

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Post the LED part numbers of the ones you used, might help...
Does your tractor require that they be 'CANbus compliant' ??

 

[kcs 61]

Post the LED part numbers of the ones you used, might help...
Does your tractor require that they be 'CANbus compliant' ??

I’m sorry. It was 1156 and then I tried 1073. Not sure about the Canbus complaint is

 

[The Evil Twin]

If you connect 12vdc to the bulb, does it illuminate?
CANbus is a vehicle communication protocol. With lighting, it is used to determine if a bulb is out. Some cars will tell you that a light is out. It typically does not prevent the LED from coming on, just makes the car think a bulb is out. I don't think your tractor has a CANbus wiring system.

 

[D2Cat]

Seems to me I had a similar problem with LEDs and I had to reverse the wires?

 

[kcs 61]

No I don’t have a CANbus on my tractor. D2Cat. I haven’t looked but I’m guessing there is only 2 wires going to the tail light. Thanks for the help. I’ll try switching them
This weekend it’s finally above 30 here

 

[xrocketengineer]

Seems to me I had a similar problem with LEDs and I had to reverse the wires?

I bought some similar LED bulbs to replace 12V 18W ones for my low voltage garden lights. Amazon advertise them as that they can work with reverse polarity but they didn't when I tried with a battery. They are working with my AC low voltage system at half frequency cycles.

 

[Flintknapper]

No I don’t have a CANbus on my tractor. D2Cat. I haven’t looked but I’m guessing there is only 2 wires going to the tail light. Thanks for the help. I’ll try switching them
This weekend it’s finally above 30 here

Many LED bulbs are 'polarity sensitive', meaning they will only work with a Negative or Positive Earth (ground), they are specific.

There are bulbs that will work either way (non polarity sensitive). I would first check to see that your 1156 bulb is non-polarity sensitive.

Switching the wires to the bulb might get that bulb to work but IF there are other bulbs on that circuit (with opposite polarity) they will fail to work while your taillight bulbs will.

So the easiest place to start is with a set of Non-Polarity
Sensitive 1156 bulbs.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

1156 is a bayonet, single pin...so the pin is +ve, shell is ground so
confirm it works with battery and a jumper.

It was unlikely tractor requires CANbus compatible LEds but many/all cars do.

 

[The Evil Twin]

You can check polarity sensitivity with a 9v battery at your kitchen table.

 

[kcs 61]

Ok awesome thanks for all the help. I bought the bulbs at AutoZone so I’m not sure if that matters. But thanks for all the help. I’ll do some checking tomorrow

 

[GreensvilleJay]

If you reverse power them + to -, - to + , good chance you destroy them....

 

[The Evil Twin]

If you reverse power them + to -, - to + , good chance you destroy them....

Not necessarily.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

When you exceed the reverse voltage spec on ANY 'raw' diode (signal, power, light emitting) long enough,with sufficient current,longer than a few millisecs, it'll be destroyed. 1N4148s made nice 'simulated' flash bulbs, 5 decades ago. SUPER BRIGHT then poof.

What is unknown about the OP's LEDs is what's inside them.

cheaply made ones will have the LEDs and a resistor
better ones ,LEDs and some current regulator 'chip'
best ones, LEDs, tempcomp Ireg and FWB diode

 

[The Evil Twin]

While all that is true for a diode in and of itself, I have never ever run across a diode in a light fixture or bulb that cannot handle 9-13vdc in reverse. Amazone, HF, Tractor Supply, Phillips, Sylvania.....the list goes on. I deal with them all at work. There are probably a dozen in my shop I can go test them all for you.

 

[Flintknapper]

While all that is true for a diode in and of itself, I have never ever run across a diode in a light fixture or bulb that cannot handle 9-13vdc in reverse.

^^^^^
My experience as well. Don't exceed 13vdc and you should be fine.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

That's why I said 'diode' and not 'LED MODULE'. There is a BIG difference. HUGE in my world of electronics. Show me the schematic and parts list for the 'LED module', if you can. An LED module, if AC power will contain a LOT of parts to converts 120 AC into the 3.4V DC V, 15ma to turn on a white LED. Any DC powered LED 'light' could easily and cheaply have FWB inside to make it 'idiot proof' to install as it's not polarity sensitive.

While some consider this semantics, nit picking, or 'you should know what I mean', accurate information about a device is critical to understand 'how it works' or why it doesn't.

I run into this problem daily, guys asking me 'my code doesn't work, I get the wrong reading,etc. about a 'sensor' when really it's a 'module' they're using. 99.44% of the time they're using a prebuilt 'module' and NOT the raw sensor. One guy wanted to know why his microcomputer didn't work at -40*C, when he finally posted which device he was using , it was easy. He had the commercial rated device when he needed the milspec version.

 

[CAPT Seabee]

I just finished swapping everything out on my L5460. H4 headlamps and H3s for the work lights. Autozone stuff (Osram) worked fine for signal. I did toss the top flashers for a heavy duty LED. BTW, the H4 dust cover interferes with the LED so an exacto knife took care of that. High output H-4s have an external module that you can mount on the inside of the enclosure with velcro.

 

[The Evil Twin]

That's why I said 'diode' and not 'LED MODULE'. There is a BIG difference. HUGE in my world of electronics. Show me the schematic and parts list for the 'LED module', if you can. An LED module, if AC power will contain a LOT of parts to converts 120 AC into the 3.4V DC V, 15ma to turn on a white LED. Any DC powered LED 'light' could easily and cheaply have FWB inside to make it 'idiot proof' to install as it's not polarity sensitive.

While some consider this semantics, nit picking, or 'you should know what I mean', accurate information about a device is critical to understand 'how it works' or why it doesn't.

I run into this problem daily, guys asking me 'my code doesn't work, I get the wrong reading,etc. about a 'sensor' when really it's a 'module' they're using. 99.44% of the time they're using a prebuilt 'module' and NOT the raw sensor. One guy wanted to know why his microcomputer didn't work at -40*C, when he finally posted which device he was using , it was easy. He had the commercial rated device when he needed the milspec version.

The entire thread here is about drop in replacement bulbs. Not diodes and electronics. We can start another thread for that.