Leaking Front crank seal - L5240

[Adirondack]

Long story short, I rebuilt the V2403 in my 5240 last winter. I've put 40 hours on it and everything is great, but it is leaking oil from the front crank seal behind the drive pulley. It started leaking after I put around 10 hrs on it. Now, I'm losing about a quart every 20 hours.

When I installed the new seal last year, it must be a little crooked and causing the leak. I need to have a new seal pressed in this time. WSM says to remove the injection pump, speed control plate and a bunch of other items. I know for certain that the two springs for the governor need to come off to remove the front engine cover.

I am trying to make this as simple as possible without removing more parts than necessary. The WSM assumes I am dissasembling the engine completely.

Anyone know the answer to this?

Thanks in advance.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just pull the crank pulley, and pull the seal, it does come out the front.
And one thing that often gets forgotten is the O-ring behind the sleeve that the seal rides on, without that O-ring sealing it will leak just like it has a bad pulley seal.

 

[Adirondack]

You just saved me a lot of work. How do you get the seal in there with the crankshaft in the way?

Now you've got me wondering if I have an extra o-ring in my gasket kit. Worth a look tonight. I still have the extra gaskets that I did not need like the intake and exhaust gaskets, etc..

Thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

How do you get the seal in there with the crankshaft in the way?

2 choices:
Put the seal in place square and slowly work around the seal with a soft hammer and drive the seal in, or take a piece of PVC or ABS pipe and drive it on with that, you will most likely will have to pull the radiator off or up if it's too close, and be careful not to go too far in with the seal.
One trick is to take the collar off the crank and put the seal on that first so you know that you didn't damage the lips on the seal, then put both the parts on at the same time.