I have a 2006 L4400 that is having solenoid/safety switch issues. My understanding is that there are 3 safety switches that must be engaged prior to the tractor starting. One is on the gear shifter that engages 2 micro switches when the shifter is in neutral. One is on the PTO that must be disengaged and one under the drivers seat. The solenoid was not engaging to release fuel to start the tractor. I tested all 3 switches and they checked OK. I purchased a new solenoid and it has worked for about 2 weeks. Now it is doing the same thing again. The motor will turn over when the 3 switches are engaged, but not the solenoid. I checked all fuses and they are fine. Are there relay switches that may be bad? How can I trouble shoot this? If I take the old solenoid and add power to the either polls in the male socket and ground the housing the plunger will activate. When I test the new solenoid the same way, then the plunger WILL NOT activate. I can place either solenoid in the tractor and it will not activate. Are there relays or something else that can be checked? I spoke with the dealer and he stated that he is not sure what to check and I cannot afford to leave my tractor at the dealer for weeks while they try to find out what is wrong. I also replaced the battery (the original has been in for 10 years!) because all the cranking has been wearing the battery down. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
L4400 solenoid /safety switch issue
- Thread starter Dutch6675
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North Idaho Wolfman
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It sounds like you have an issue with the OPC timer.
The safety switches all control this timer, and the timer controls the stop solenoid I do believe, I don't have the WSM for that unit or I could give you verification of that.
OPC Timer P/N TD060-30500 ~ $75
As far as the stop solenoid goes that model should have either two terminals or three terminals on the plug, if 2 then both terminals are both +Pos, one for coil pull in and one for coil hold, and the case will be -Neg, and if 3 terminals one is -Neg and the other two are +Pos .
The safety switches all control this timer, and the timer controls the stop solenoid I do believe, I don't have the WSM for that unit or I could give you verification of that.
OPC Timer P/N TD060-30500 ~ $75
As far as the stop solenoid goes that model should have either two terminals or three terminals on the plug, if 2 then both terminals are both +Pos, one for coil pull in and one for coil hold, and the case will be -Neg, and if 3 terminals one is -Neg and the other two are +Pos .
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The solenoid has 2 terminals. On the old solenoid, I grounded the chassis and put power to each terminal and the rod energized. I replaced the solenoid with a new one last week. The tractor worked fine for a week, then it stopped working. I grounded the chassis and put power to each terminal this time and the rod DID NOT energize. Very confusing. By placing the old solenoid back in the tractor, it still will not energize to allow fuel to release. Not sure if the new solenoid is defective or if it is just the Timer OPC is going out. Sure don't like just spending money on parts to try and fix it. Thanks for the advice and direction. I will order OPC Timer or if there is a way to test it, I would. Best regards
North Idaho Wolfman
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Put Negative to the body of the solenoid and power to one terminal it should pull in, power to the other terminal should hold the plunger in when powered (to test, help the plunger in with power to the second terminal and the plunger should stay in).
Look for blown fuses possibly under the hood, there are three fuses there.
Look for blown fuses possibly under the hood, there are three fuses there.
I read on a forum that you could jump the 2 red wires located within the OPC Delay Timer, but to no avail. I am going to order the part and hope that it fixes the problem. Could the problem be in the ignition switch? Glow plugs heat up, solenoid does not engage, engine turns over. Why could you not just run 2 wires from the battery to the solenoid via 2 toggle switches. This would address the issues of providing 12V on each leg of the solenoid. I know this would make the tractor unsafe in regards to overriding the safety switches. Just till new parts come in and hopefully solve the problem. If the OPC Delay does not fix it are there other relays in involved?
North Idaho Wolfman
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It's actually even simpler, remove the solenoid, use the dead one in it's place after cutting off the shaft.
Want to make sure I understand you. The two posts on the solenoid is used for extending or retracting and the other one is used to hold the shaft in place? When the plunger on the fuel pump is pushed in ie. shaft on solenoid is extending, then fuel flows; or based your comment.....cutting the shaft shorter allows the fuel to continuously flow. How do you or do you ever stop the flow of 12volts to the old solenoid? Use a master cutoff to the positive side of battery so the it does not drain down? Please offer clarity to your comments. Thanks for your help. Regards
North Idaho Wolfman
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You have it backwards, the rod on the solenoid is extended when there is no power on either terminal.
The rod on the solenoid extended cuts off the fuel flow, thus powering it causes the injection pump to be able to pass fuel on.
Cutting the rod off of the dead solenoid will allow fuel to flow.
Doing that has nothing to do with the electrical portion of the circuit, don't even hook up the wires to the dead solenoid.
Remove spring and plunger (140) when you cut off the rod and override the solenoid.
Of course to shut down the tractor you need to use the manual shut down knob.
The rod on the solenoid extended cuts off the fuel flow, thus powering it causes the injection pump to be able to pass fuel on.
Cutting the rod off of the dead solenoid will allow fuel to flow.
Doing that has nothing to do with the electrical portion of the circuit, don't even hook up the wires to the dead solenoid.
Remove spring and plunger (140) when you cut off the rod and override the solenoid.
Of course to shut down the tractor you need to use the manual shut down knob.
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Daren Todd
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There should be a lever or knob you pull. Usually low and to the right hand side of the steering column. Sometimes with a red or orange knob.
You pull it and it actually moves the fuel rack in the injection pump.
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You pull it and it actually moves the fuel rack in the injection pump.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
If there is not a knob under the dash to pull, it would be a attach to part #100, if not then just pull #100 back to shut it down.
I installed the new solenoid today along with the new OPC Timer and still nothing. I checked the voltage coming from the 2 pins that goes into the solenoid and am not getting the 12V as I was getting before. Question, are there any relays or other wiring schematics that I can trace? I check the shifter safety switch today and when out of neutral the engine stops cranking. Also, when I engaged the PTO the engine stopped cranking. When I raised up off the seat the engine CONTINUED to turn over. I know that cutting off the solenoid would probably get the job done, however, I wish to have this permanently fixed...........More input is appreciated!!!!!
Hi Dutch6675. I am having a very similar problem with my L4400. Did you ever find a solution to this problem?I installed the new solenoid today along with the new OPC Timer and still nothing. I checked the voltage coming from the 2 pins that goes into the solenoid and am not getting the 12V as I was getting before. Question, are there any relays or other wiring schematics that I can trace? I check the shifter safety switch today and when out of neutral the engine stops cranking. Also, when I engaged the PTO the engine stopped cranking. When I raised up off the seat the engine CONTINUED to turn over. I know that cutting off the solenoid would probably get the job done, however, I wish to have this permanently fixed...........More input is appreciated!!!!!
