Hello everyone. My L3600 was running just fine. I parked it in the barn, lowered the bucket, and called it a night. I came out in the morning and...dead. I figured I left the key a little cocked and drained the battery. Charged the battery. Nothing. Replaced the battery. Nothing. Watched Youtube videos...its a 1998 so no seat safety switch (I don't think). I plugged the headlights back in - they don't turn on but I hear a little buzz and when I turn the key to start it the buzzing stops. I figure it must be getting power. My question is, what is the best way to trouble shoot at this point? I saw a Youtube video that said check the ground wire - looked good to me. What next? Any help is appreciated!!
L3600 will not even turn over
- Thread starter CountyLiving
- Start date
Remove the ground wire at the frame and clean to a shine. Check wires at battery. Bend at the clamps and see if any green corrosion is there.
Remove cables from the battery. Clean battery terminals and cable connectors well. Inspect cables for corrosion near the connectors. If corroded replace. Put cables back on battery and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow ground to frame. Clean and tighten. From here we'll start troubleshooting.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Just a curiosity question.
How old was the battery that you replaced?
Replacing the battery is often the choice, when very often, spending $$$ on a new battery improves nothing.
You might have instead had the battery load tested ( for free ) at your local battery store,.
It would not have solved your problem, but you would still have battery $$ in your pocket.
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Today I double checked to make sure the battery was full. It was new, but wanted to start at square one. Things I did:
1. polished to a shine the positive post and connector - tightened so absolutely no movement.
2. polished to a shine the negative post; replaced the ground wire tightened so absolutely no movement.
3. created a new position to connect the ground wire - polished to a shine - mounted tight.
4. Tried to start - nothing - no power to ignition switch.
5. Tested the battery again - all good.
6. took off the counsel shell.
7. the forward/reverse shifter has a little safety switch managed by gravity it looks like. Seems to be physically working....does that permit the starter switch to get power?
8. turned the key. Dead.
9. unplugged every relay and used a voltage tester - no power.
10. put everything back together - turned key. dead.
11. replaced every fuse in fuse box with new - just in case.
12. turned the key. dead.
It feels like something simple is going on - I just don't know where to look.
I'm at a loss - any suggestions are HIGHLY appreciated.
Hi. Not sure how old - it was my fathers tractor...my guess is maybe 5 years? Thanks!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Ok it sounds like you have eliminated the battery as a potential problem.
Measure the voltage at the batter terminal and write it down. I assume you have a voltage meter.
Then measure the voltage between the negative battery post and the positive battery cable connection point on the starter. It should be the same reading as the first reading but write it down if different.
test the voltage between the fuse block and the battery negative terminal.
Now read the voltage between the key switch power in post and the battery negative. I an not sure if you have any access to the key switch rear side but hopefully you can figure something out.
There may be a large 50 amp fuse in the power supply to the fuse block or near the starter or the battery itself. If you can locate it then test the voltage between the battery negative terminal and the fuse wiring.
If you don’t have a voltage meter then a test tight will show you where you have voltage and where you don’t.
Measure the voltage at the batter terminal and write it down. I assume you have a voltage meter.
Then measure the voltage between the negative battery post and the positive battery cable connection point on the starter. It should be the same reading as the first reading but write it down if different.
test the voltage between the fuse block and the battery negative terminal.
Now read the voltage between the key switch power in post and the battery negative. I an not sure if you have any access to the key switch rear side but hopefully you can figure something out.
There may be a large 50 amp fuse in the power supply to the fuse block or near the starter or the battery itself. If you can locate it then test the voltage between the battery negative terminal and the fuse wiring.
If you don’t have a voltage meter then a test tight will show you where you have voltage and where you don’t.
TheOldHokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
At a minimum you should me getting power to the ignition switch. Break out a meter or test light and follow the positive wiring from battery back to switch. Use the negative battery post as ground for all testing. Start right at the positive battery post to verify ground and positive cable connection. Use an incandescent test light rather than meter if you have or can make one.
Dan
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Thanks Dan.
The latest...I 100% started over. The most significant thing I did was replaced a 40 amp fuse (along with all others) that I found while tracing back the positive wire from the battery as you suggested. I'm not sure if that was it, but I now have power to the dash when I turn the ignition! Great progress!
Unfortunately the tractor will not still not turn over. When I turn the key it clicks loudly as a small switch on the right side of the motor moves in and out. If it were a car or truck, I would recognize that click as not having enough battery juice to turn it over. So, I jumped it with my truck. Same result...loud clicking and no turn over.
I'm online this morning trying to figure out next steps. Any ideas are welcome!!
Thank you! - kj
Sounds like you need to load test the battery. Take it to your local auto supply store and they do it for free. Battery may have voltage when you put you meter on it, but not enough power to start the engine.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Use jumper cables and connect to starter stud and frame near starter, see if that will spin the starter.
If it does, then replace BOTH of your battery cables.
If it does, then replace BOTH of your battery cables.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Try to apply positive power from the battery directly to the small spade connector on the solenoid.
Do this carefully since you are bypassing all safety features of the tractor. There is some potential for the tractor to start and move so it could be slightly dangerous. Having someone in the seat with foot on brakes is a good idea.
You are testing that the starter solenoid is working properly if it gets enough power applied. I suspect that you are not getting enough power to that spade connector to activate the starter.
Report back what happened and more advice will be provided.
Do this carefully since you are bypassing all safety features of the tractor. There is some potential for the tractor to start and move so it could be slightly dangerous. Having someone in the seat with foot on brakes is a good idea.
You are testing that the starter solenoid is working properly if it gets enough power applied. I suspect that you are not getting enough power to that spade connector to activate the starter.
Report back what happened and more advice will be provided.