L3600 had to hold key on now won’t turn over

[WhiskeyCharlie]

Had this 8 years and key never shut it down, always used decomp? knob.

Glow plug light stopped working a few years ago but didn’t affect operation so didn’t worry about it.

Last couple uses I’ve had to bounce key to start repeatedly to get it to eventually stay running.

Now it wont start, just a single click in a relay 056700-6690 behind left side of cluster.

Bottom fuse in panel seems loose so I jumpered it with a wire that fits better and I get a little more noise/buzz and solenoid right side of block actuates but still doesn’t start.

I’ve been reading about holding coil on one of the solenoids, I notice one or two of the relays behind right side of cluster have two terminals.
Terminals are clean and tight, I’m having trouble getting down to frame to verify ground connection.

Read about jumpering from black/white wire terminal on starter to battery, I don’t have enough hands to test this stuff with key on.

Does any of this sound related - progressing to lend itself to diagnosis?
Battery charged and seems good, a little over a year old but I’m going to get it tested tomorrow.

Thanks

 

[GeoHorn]

On many of these Kubotas the key-switch activates a relay behind the instrument panel…which in-turn sends power to the starter-solenoid (sitting on the starter motor)… which engages the starter-gear with the flywheel while simultaneously energizing the starter motor from the battery-cable-terminal on the starter motor.

Your description of the problem causes me to question the condition of your 1-key switch, 2- condition of your stop-solenoid (which might be not working simply because of the failed key-switch), 3-condition, cleanliness, and connections of your battery cables and battery itself.

You are likely going to have to disassemble your instrument panel to access the relay first mentioned, and also to get to the key-switch. None of this is too difficult for someone with a modicum of experience/courage with electrical circuits.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You do not have a decompression knob.
You do have a fuel stop lever.
The fuel stop solenoid is passive, so it not being operational with not effect it starting or running.
Sounds like you have multi system electrical failure and you need to use the WSM to repair what is wrong.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious... I thought yeesh, 8 year old tractor with electrical problems ? But...if tractordata is correct, you've got a 25 year old tractor, and by the posting description , have a LOT of hours on it, maybe left outside a few times. Ignition switches don't last forever, only rated for xxxx number of cycles.
I'd start by replacing that switch AND inspecting every inch of wiring. ANY corrosion ( greenish colour copper ) replace it. Once a drop of water touches bare copper, corrosion begins. It's really bad on stranded wire as the water 'wicks' into the 'core' of the wire.

 

[WhiskeyCharlie]

Thanks and 10-4 on fuel cutoff - yeah I’ve had it for 8 years but it’s a 2001 or so I think. It doesn’t get left outside.
I had the battery tested, cleaned all the terminals and redid the ground, double checked pto switch, don’t see a clutch switch and parking brake switch doesn’t seem to effect anything (never has). When it’s in f/r or PTO engaged the one relay on left side doesn’t click with key where when those two safety’s are closed (or open- satisfactory position) it does click.

I jumped the terminal for the white/black wire on starter and it started right up. The white/black on the key is hot with the key on, I guess I need to grow a couple more hands and start chasing that wire back from the starter. I’ll look into getting a wsm, I pulled and checked the relays on the right side for corrosion and the only one I could make heads or tales of seemed to be a NC coil that opened on key power. The others may have had a hot lead somewhere on em with key power but nothing I could really make sense of without a manual.