L35 wiring

[L35DOWN!]

So the tractor I am working on has been a struggle here lately. Started out with a broken steering ram. Fixed that only to blow a hose on start up. No big deal I built new hose installed it and fired up refilled hydraulic fluid and quick pre mow grease and such. Shut tractor down to take a break before starting mowing. Hop on and click.

Sweet what the hell. Thinking must be bad battery/alternator, I just had it running for 20 minutes. So I hook up jumper cables. And nothing. Checked voltage inspecting grounds and wires to starter found blown slow blow fuse next to starter. Ok so run to town buy a couple couldn't find any shorts so installed a fuse and starter tried to turn a little and blew the fuse again.

I spent the next half of the day checking every wire I could without disassembling wire harness or pulling anything other than hood covers and such. The big thing I discovered during this is that there is constant power coming from both sides of the fuse holder. And someone in the past added an extra hot wire going directly from the battery to the stud on alternator. I am assuming this is why the power from both sides. But.

Then I found the lovely mouse motel down in bottom of dash in behind rear PTO engagement lever. I have read that the safety switch can cause exactly the issues I am having.

Question is can I simply connect the two wires for the safety switch together and bypass the damn thing like on my lawnmower?

And does someone have some wiring schematics in case I am wrong about the switch and have to dissect a bit of the harness.

Everything else seems to be working as it should. But my project is located 45 minutes from any sort of electronic amenities including cell service.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Here's a diagram of the starting circuit. It's pretty straightforward. Notice that the sloblow is the only protection, so if you have a short, that's going to blow. 4 and 5 are the PTO and shuttle neutral switches. Relay 6 is mounted on the firewall behind the dash.

Yes, you can jump that switch, but if it's blowing the fuse you'll still have the short.

The wire from the alternator should connect downstream from the sloblow fuse to protect the alternator from a short at the battery.

 

[Nicksacco]

You've got to love those mouse motels!

The L35 has 3 safety switches - micro switches:
PTO
Shuttle Shift
Brake lever

Only the PTO and Shuttle prevent the engine from starting. If either are engaged, the circuit from key switch to starter solenoid is interrupted (switches are open) by these micro switches.
The 40A slo blow is the one one near the starter and protects the "always hot" key switch wiring.

The PTO switch is buried under the metal dash panel assembly and the access is through the rubber boot covering the PTO lever. Although the switch is a bear to get to (impossible to remove if rusted in) without removing the console assy, it may not be the switch itself, rather the wires may be touching metal somewhere from the PTO switch to the Key switch.

As PoTreeBoy says, bypassing the fuse doesn't do any good if there is a short from mouse munchers. (bad idea regardless)
I suggest you remove the lower dash console plastics first and review the wiring from the key switch to the PTO switch. It's all fairly easy to see and chewed wires will be easy to spot since they are all wrapped (or should be) in a bundle.

Failing this, remove all of the plastic (gauges, etc.) and inspect all the wiring. in the dash. Be very careful when you remove the two long plastic connectors from the back of the gauge panel. The reason is that the gauge panel connectors are only thin plastic with the metal circuit printed on it (a crappy money-saving idea). While you're in there, clean the tachometer cable knurled nut and grease it. Likely the nut and cable need greased.

Failing this, and with all the console plastics removed, inspect the shuttle lever switch wiring. That micro switch is right on top of the shuttle assembly.

"And someone in the past added an extra hot wire going directly from the battery to the stud on alternator ". Custom wiring is always worrisome but might be ok - maybe they bypassed a bad wire. When I rebuilt my L35 most of the OEM wiring was green inside and messed up.

This is what the switches look like: They are Omron switches. I am out of town and don't have the part number (I'm sorry).

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