I picked up a L345DT recently. It looks like it has lived outside. No surprise that it had a mouse condo under the instrument panel so I pulled the 4 screws and pulled out the majority of it and then used compressed air to blow out the rest. None of the wires were chewed - thank you - but now the 2 red lights that used to come on when I turned the key - don't. I checked the bulbs and they are still good. I had the hood up and blew the firewall off too. The tractor still starts and runs but no red lights. Did I short something out? Any ideas? Thanks.
L345DT red lights out
- Thread starter Grady 580
- Start date
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
I would imagine there is a fuse inline for those - trace the wiring and see if that fuse can be located.
Here is a wiring diagram:
I looked at the diagram and wondered if it was just a fuse but I checked them yesterday and they all looked good but I'll pick up some new ones just in case my old eyes got it wrong - again. They are all 10 amp so I'll give it a try. Thanks, I hope that's all it is.
Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
On my L185 the red lights are in the tachometer and are for low oil pressure and alternator (not) working. They are both housed in the tachometer. I remember that they are grounded through the dash to the frame (without a wire).
If you have removed the dash and it isn’t reconnected to the tractor then the lights may not work.
Try to ground the dash or the instrument case that holds the lights and see if they start working. I will get my schematic out and look but I do know that the L345 is much different than the L185.
Do you know if the white instrument lights work (assuming that there are lights in the gauges for nighttime operation)?
EDIT
Looking at the schematic more there is a 10A fuse (top one in the diagram) that is involved in the lights. There is also a feed from the regulator connector for the charge light. The oil light is grounded by the oil pressure switch. You need to verify those connections are good.
I think I would focus on the oil pressure light and get it operational since it is a simple circuit. The schematic shows a ground that is near the oil pressure light that confuses me. If you ground the wire at the oil pressure switch the light will be on. What is the second ground for?
Is there also a third warning light in the temperature gauge? The same red power wire goes to that gauge.
If you have removed the dash and it isn’t reconnected to the tractor then the lights may not work.
Try to ground the dash or the instrument case that holds the lights and see if they start working. I will get my schematic out and look but I do know that the L345 is much different than the L185.
Do you know if the white instrument lights work (assuming that there are lights in the gauges for nighttime operation)?
EDIT
Looking at the schematic more there is a 10A fuse (top one in the diagram) that is involved in the lights. There is also a feed from the regulator connector for the charge light. The oil light is grounded by the oil pressure switch. You need to verify those connections are good.
I think I would focus on the oil pressure light and get it operational since it is a simple circuit. The schematic shows a ground that is near the oil pressure light that confuses me. If you ground the wire at the oil pressure switch the light will be on. What is the second ground for?
Is there also a third warning light in the temperature gauge? The same red power wire goes to that gauge.
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Yes, the panel light in the temp. gauge worked so that made it more confusing but I changed all the 10 amp fuses on the firewall even though they looked good and voila, the lights work again. Thanks guys, great, prompt advice. I did lose a headlight bulb on one side in the process and can't figure out how to remove it. I'll start another thread. Thanks again.
Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
On my L185 the whole lens is easy to get off the tractor.
The bulb is what comes out and is replaced so go buy one now to help you figure it out. I know it took me a while to figure it out and I damaged the lens a little trying to pry it apart. I have no recall on how the bulb is removed but I think it was a twist out but all I can say is good luck!
The bulb working is only a little brighter than the bulb not working! They are pretty much useless for anything other than creeping back to the barn.
The bulb is what comes out and is replaced so go buy one now to help you figure it out. I know it took me a while to figure it out and I damaged the lens a little trying to pry it apart. I have no recall on how the bulb is removed but I think it was a twist out but all I can say is good luck!
The bulb working is only a little brighter than the bulb not working! They are pretty much useless for anything other than creeping back to the barn.
So you pry the aluminum? trim ring off from around the lens? Mine is so tight there is no room to get anything between the trim ring and the grill panel. I'll go look at it again. Thanks,
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
No you don’t pry it apart. At least not where you think it should come apart! You have to get the whole assembly out of the tractor.
I’ll look at mine in a minute though and see if I can recall what I did to get it apart or out
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Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
See post #7 an 8 in this thread
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