L345 Questions
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Well, this will get a few "different" replies - but being a 40+ year old tractor and the fluid that came in it from the factory was a Kubota UDT - you might want to use the newer UDT, S-UDT2, but being this is a geared tractor - any good, and there is the magic word - "good" hydraulic fluid will be fine.
Engine oil I would suggest 15w-40 Rotella or if a lot of cold work the 5w-40 Rotella oil.
Engine oil I would suggest 15w-40 Rotella or if a lot of cold work the 5w-40 Rotella oil.
TheOldHokie
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The original recommendation was a multipurpose tractor transmission oil which is a class of lubricant called
Universal Tractor Transmission Oil (UTTO).
This is a specialized oil formulated to act as a combination hydraulic, transmission , final drive, and wet brake/clutch lubricant. It is not the same thing as ordinary hydraulic oil which should not be used.
The owners manual (shown below) listed three specific brand names "or equivalents" . Those specific products are no longer produced but any quality UTTO sold today is an acceptable equivalent.. There are dozens of brand names to choose from including Kubota UDT. As long as you stick to premium products and avoid the so called economy "yellow bucket" or "303" garbage you will be fine.
You can buy UTTO in 5 gallon pails at most auto parts stores, tractor supply stores, and big box stores like Walmart,
Dan
Last edited:
Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Given the above info and and age of the tractor I would go with the above recommendations.
Personally, I would go with the "Kubota brand" stuff.
I don't think there is enough "savings" to he had, by trying to go with off brand stuff.
Rotella oil and Kubota fluid would give me "peace of mind".
Personally, I would go with the "Kubota brand" stuff.
I don't think there is enough "savings" to he had, by trying to go with off brand stuff.
Rotella oil and Kubota fluid would give me "peace of mind".
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Three other comments for you to ponder.
You can use the same fluid in the front axle.
The transmission and rear end and the hydraulic pump all share a common sump
There may be drain ports low on the rear wheel drive, inside of the wheel (look from tractor centerline towards the rear wheel).
You can use the same fluid in the front axle.
The transmission and rear end and the hydraulic pump all share a common sump
There may be drain ports low on the rear wheel drive, inside of the wheel (look from tractor centerline towards the rear wheel).
I have a 1984 L345DT with front loader and backhoe.
I've read some of the other posts and gotten good information, but still get confused about some of these things, including hydraulic and transmission oils.
If I understand my tractor correctly, the transmission, hydraulic and rear differential fluids are the same and share a common supply, which is filled just rear of the brake pedals.
Is that right?
If that is, I'll call all three "hydraulic oil" to make it easy for me.
So, to change the hydraulic oil, there's the hydraulic oil filter on the left side of the engine, which I need to pull out, clean the screen and put back in.
Do you always replace the O-ring, or only if it's worn?
I believe there are drains on the bottom of each rear differential-- the gray things just inboard from each rear wheel.
When I drain the hydraulic oil, should I also open those drains?
Is there anywhere else where I should drain the hydraulic oil?
Where is the transmission drain plug?
If I can't get to the transmission drain right now, will I be missing out on draining a lot of the hydraulic oil?
Once all the hydraulic oil is drained and I've cleaned the hydraulic oil filter screen, I need to fill it up.
Is the only fill place the cap behind the brake pedals?
What is the best hydraulic oil to use?
Since it's a 1984 L345DT, should I use a gear oil, or the Kubota UDT hydraulic oil?
I've seen other posts and it looks like Kubota UDT should be fine.
What have others found using Kubota UDT? Does it work well?
Thanks very much.
I've read some of the other posts and gotten good information, but still get confused about some of these things, including hydraulic and transmission oils.
If I understand my tractor correctly, the transmission, hydraulic and rear differential fluids are the same and share a common supply, which is filled just rear of the brake pedals.
Is that right?
If that is, I'll call all three "hydraulic oil" to make it easy for me.
So, to change the hydraulic oil, there's the hydraulic oil filter on the left side of the engine, which I need to pull out, clean the screen and put back in.
Do you always replace the O-ring, or only if it's worn?
I believe there are drains on the bottom of each rear differential-- the gray things just inboard from each rear wheel.
When I drain the hydraulic oil, should I also open those drains?
Is there anywhere else where I should drain the hydraulic oil?
Where is the transmission drain plug?
If I can't get to the transmission drain right now, will I be missing out on draining a lot of the hydraulic oil?
Once all the hydraulic oil is drained and I've cleaned the hydraulic oil filter screen, I need to fill it up.
Is the only fill place the cap behind the brake pedals?
What is the best hydraulic oil to use?
Since it's a 1984 L345DT, should I use a gear oil, or the Kubota UDT hydraulic oil?
I've seen other posts and it looks like Kubota UDT should be fine.
What have others found using Kubota UDT? Does it work well?
Thanks very much.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The Transmission / Hydraulic fluid is filled on the top of the Transmission and checked with the dipstick behind it.
Replace the O-ring.
There are 4 drains that need to be drained.
If you don't drain them all at the same time you're wasting time!
UDT is what you want, never gear oil.
If it has power steering that system is separate but you should service it too.
Also you should do the front axle
ALL three systems use UDT.
Go to KubotaBooks.com and download the WSM (aka service manual).
Replace the O-ring.
There are 4 drains that need to be drained.
If you don't drain them all at the same time you're wasting time!
UDT is what you want, never gear oil.
If it has power steering that system is separate but you should service it too.
Also you should do the front axle
ALL three systems use UDT.
Go to KubotaBooks.com and download the WSM (aka service manual).
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Some other suggestions for your change.
There is a LOT of oil in that sump so be sure you have enough containers to catch it all. Also make sure they fit underneath the tractor transmission. The drains on the wheel area will require a shorter type of container and they will make a mess because they will start running down the side and dripping in strange places. You might want to consider a form a funnel or something similar
formafunnel.com
I also bought a plastic utility tub like this to put the drain buckets into so they can slide easily and I was working on a dirt surface. It catches any accidental spill also. I didn’t drain directly into the tub since I didn’t have any good way to get the oil out of it.
And yes the manual from when the tractor was built does say to use gear oil, but UDT is what you need now. If your existing fluid is like peanut butter color, it has water in it. You can use a cheaper fluid like Traveller TTHF to fill it up and run it for a while to help remove the water. In fact I just use it instead of UDT
There is a LOT of oil in that sump so be sure you have enough containers to catch it all. Also make sure they fit underneath the tractor transmission. The drains on the wheel area will require a shorter type of container and they will make a mess because they will start running down the side and dripping in strange places. You might want to consider a form a funnel or something similar
About - Form a Funnel
How was the FORM-A-FUNNEL® invented? IT BEGAN WITH AN OIL CHANGE Kevin Lohmeier was changing the oil on a Cessna 182 airplane several years ago. He dreaded the huge mess that would be made from the dripping oil. He thought about using a funnel, but there is no standard funnel that could fit...
formafunnel.com
I also bought a plastic utility tub like this to put the drain buckets into so they can slide easily and I was working on a dirt surface. It catches any accidental spill also. I didn’t drain directly into the tub since I didn’t have any good way to get the oil out of it.
Bon Tool 36 in. x 24 in. Utility Tub 11-409 - The Home Depot
Keep all your tools handy during hours of work with the addition of this excellent Bon Tool Utility Tub. Perfectly made durable.
www.homedepot.com
And yes the manual from when the tractor was built does say to use gear oil, but UDT is what you need now. If your existing fluid is like peanut butter color, it has water in it. You can use a cheaper fluid like Traveller TTHF to fill it up and run it for a while to help remove the water. In fact I just use it instead of UDT
Thank you all for the great advice!
I have more questions.
It's cold here, below freezing, into at least the 20's Fahrenheit.
Plugged in my block (coolant) heater, which tripped my panel circuit breaker, so I'm thinking the heater must be shorted out. Looks like it's the original 1984 part.
Planning to start up my tractor soon in the cold weather.
Should I replace the coolant heater, or just use a block heater, or both?
The coolant heater is an inline heater.
If I use a block heater, will a magnetic one on the bottom of the engine work well?
If so, any recommendations for a particular one and what rating?
Since the L345DT is diesel, do you recommend anything to warm the fuel?
I'm wondering, with the cold, might the waxes in the fuel clog the fuel filter?
I had hoped to get my tractor up and running last summer but didn't' make it, so I have to do my best with the current conditions.
For additional questions, are they best posted here or on a separate thread if it's a different subject?
Again, really appreciate everyone's help and advice.
Thanks again.
I have more questions.
It's cold here, below freezing, into at least the 20's Fahrenheit.
Plugged in my block (coolant) heater, which tripped my panel circuit breaker, so I'm thinking the heater must be shorted out. Looks like it's the original 1984 part.
Planning to start up my tractor soon in the cold weather.
Should I replace the coolant heater, or just use a block heater, or both?
The coolant heater is an inline heater.
If I use a block heater, will a magnetic one on the bottom of the engine work well?
If so, any recommendations for a particular one and what rating?
Since the L345DT is diesel, do you recommend anything to warm the fuel?
I'm wondering, with the cold, might the waxes in the fuel clog the fuel filter?
I had hoped to get my tractor up and running last summer but didn't' make it, so I have to do my best with the current conditions.
For additional questions, are they best posted here or on a separate thread if it's a different subject?
Again, really appreciate everyone's help and advice.
Thanks again.
Take a heat gun or your wife's blow dryer and aim it directly to the intake manifold. A few minute of that heat will allow the engine to fire.
I think a blow dryer and/or covering the tractor with a tarp and a thermostatically controlled heater underneath may be the best/easiest/cheapest methods for right now.
I just checked, and the inline coolant heater is actually not stock. It must have been added. The local Kubota dealer never heard of it.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You can by hose heaters online, you just need to know the size of the hose, they work just as well as block heaters.
The heaters (sticky or magnetic) that goes on the bottom are not block heaters they are oil pan heaters and they are best avoided on Kubota engines.
The do not work anywhere near as well as block heaters.
Only run the block heater an hour or so before tractor use.
Treat the fuel with a winter fuel treatment, no heating required.
Drain the separator/ fuel filter housing, and change fuel filters often if you get any water in the fuel.
This thread is fine to keep asking questions.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Magnetic heaters, IF you have metal oil pan, ONLY heats the oil!!! It does little for the combustion chamber where preheating is a must.
In days of old - where a typical straight 30 weigh oil was used - preheating the pan was a great idea - lowing the viscosity of the oil so it would flow well in very cold temps.
You need to heat the coolant to help start the engine easier. Replace the old heater.