L3302 REAR REMOTE
- Thread starter midironman
- Start date
Ok so after some thought, I decided to spend a little money to do this thing right, at least for me. Not going all out with high quality stuff like Prince. I have three acres that I mow with a rotary cutter, grade, and clean up with a grapple. I do split-rail fence repair on occasion where I need to dig fence post holes. I also split ~2 cords of wood every winter. So not a real heavy user. Anyway I bought a Summit 3 spool monoblock P40G-3A1 with 2 spring centers and a motor detent. Thanks Dan for your visual. I learned that I need to keep the fluid flowing from Pressure to Tank. Here's my sketch on connections:
I installed the 3rd function a while ago, so rather than switch the flow path, I'm keeping the same route: block pressure port to 3rd valve to loader valve to rear remotes and back to tank. Does it matter what order the valves fall in the loop?
I need to manufacture a ROP bracket to mount the valve next to my seat and a bracket on the rear for the couplers. I'm going to have a local hydraulic shop cut the hoses. Seems pretty easy. The monoblock valve was $260. Hoping to keep my cost under $800 after all the hoses, fittings, couplers and such. After install the first thing I'm getting is a hydraulic top link. Seems like it will save a lot of time not having to stop the tractor, get out and adjust it manually when I need to tilt the box blade.
btw I love this tractor!
I installed the 3rd function a while ago, so rather than switch the flow path, I'm keeping the same route: block pressure port to 3rd valve to loader valve to rear remotes and back to tank. Does it matter what order the valves fall in the loop?
I need to manufacture a ROP bracket to mount the valve next to my seat and a bracket on the rear for the couplers. I'm going to have a local hydraulic shop cut the hoses. Seems pretty easy. The monoblock valve was $260. Hoping to keep my cost under $800 after all the hoses, fittings, couplers and such. After install the first thing I'm getting is a hydraulic top link. Seems like it will save a lot of time not having to stop the tractor, get out and adjust it manually when I need to tilt the box blade.
btw I love this tractor!
That diagram needs some wotk
Order of 3rd function and loader does matter. It works either way but there are some subtle side effects of having 3rd function first.
You do not need or want to use that rear valve for your log splitter.
Dan
I'm all ears, Dan. Thanks for taking the time to help. I've been trying to learn about this project on my own, but clearly I've been looking at the wrong sources. Ultimately, I'm hoping to save some money, since a comparable OEM system runs around $3,000. Plus, I really enjoy working with my hands; it keeps me busy and engaged in retirement! This is my first tractor, so I don't have any real experience with hydraulics beyond basic automotive brake jobs. The closest I've come is installing a 9,000 lb car lift next to my garage, which mainly involved connecting a few hydraulic lines.
Here's the original setup and Land Pride's instructions for the 3rd function.
Hopefully I have this right and this is your recommendation?
If you don't mind me asking, could you briefly explain why this approach is better?
Here's the original setup and Land Pride's instructions for the 3rd function.
Hopefully I have this right and this is your recommendation?
If you don't mind me asking, could you briefly explain why this approach is better?
Ok - number one is the ports you hsve labeled as tank are not, with the exception of third function, tank. They are power beyond. "Your right way" does not work. I will post a diagram of the "right way" in a moment along withvsn explanation of the difference between 3rd function ahead of vs after the loader valve.
Dan
Ok, studied your diagram. I think I got this right. I don't know the name of the loader valve ports other than BY (assuming Power beyond) that I can see. The hoses stay the same on the loader valve except the BY port, which connects to 3rd function P port. Please tell me this is correct!
Yes. Here is my version with the 3rd function as you currentlly have it. Notice the power beyond sleeve installed in the N port of the Summit valve - that is REQUIRED