L3130 front axle advice on stripped bolt hole

[Chuck51]

I‘d appreciate some advice on this. The front axle has been leaking fluid. In taking it apart, I found one of the bottom bolt ears on the axle cover has broken off (although still in place) and the bolt hole for the adjacent bolt is stripped. I replaced the bearing and seals (including the large cover o ring) then reassembled but it still leaks. I suspect the stripped bolt hole is the reason I’m still getting leakage. It appears the bolt with the broken ear is still applying some pressure on the o ring seal. In dealing with the stripped hole, can I just use a helicoil to repair this? Is this strong enough? Would a Time-sert be better? Is drilling through and just putting a nut on the backside an option?

I’m also wondering if the lack of an axle vent contributes to this? Thanks for any advice you can give me.

 

[DustyRusty]

A Helicoil would be the best way to repair this. Properly installed, it is as strong as the original threaded hole. I would be careful to install the bolts using a torque wrench. I would also make sure to purchase the new bolt from Kubota since, in theory, it is of the proper tensile strength. If you don't have the torque specification for the assembly that you are working on, in your owner's manual there is a page that gives the bolt head pictures along with the size of the bolt and will have the torque specification. If you are lubricating the threads prior to assembly, there is a note to lessen the torque. I don't care for drilling through and bolting on the backside except when it is the last solution to the repair. Presently you have other options that are viable.

 

[Chuck51]

A Helicoil would be the best way to repair this. Properly installed, it is as strong as the original threaded hole. I would be careful to install the bolts using a torque wrench. I would also make sure to purchase the new bolt from Kubota since, in theory, it is of the proper tensile strength. If you don't have the torque specification for the assembly that you are working on, in your owner's manual there is a page that gives the bolt head pictures along with the size of the bolt and will have the torque specification. If you are lubricating the threads prior to assembly, there is a note to lessen the torque. I don't care for drilling through and bolting on the backside except when it is the last solution to the repair. Presently you have other options that are viable.

Thanks for the quick response. I'll figure out the length and order a helicoil kit.

 

[Henro]

Thanks for the quick response. I'll figure out the length and order a helicoil kit.

Just for understanding, you have two bolts that are not functioning right? One goes in to an ear that is broken off, but still in place somehow, but if the ear is broken off the bolt can't really be doing anything to hold the cover on.

And the second, is a bolt that goes into a hole that is stripped out, and which you will repair with a helicoil.

Is there risk that after the helicoil repair you will still have leakage since apparently the broken-ear bolt will not be doing anything?

Am I seeing this correctly?

 

[Chuck51]

Yes, you are correct. The broken ear piece broke through the middle of the hole in the cover. The broken piece can be set back in place and when the bolt is tightened it holds everything in place. I’m guessing I only have about 50% of the holding pressure since that is how much of the bolt head contacts the unbroken cover. I don’t know if that will be enough. If not, I’m guessing I’ll need to replace the cover.

 

[The Evil Twin]

A Time Sert is going to be a stronger repair. Read up on the differences between Heli Coil and Time Sert.

 

[GeoHorn]

There are lots of videos of helicoil vs time-sert… You can waste your time watching guys twist a ratchet over and over in and out again and again….and never see what the real difference is…
…OR… you can watch partzilla and actually learn the difference in a short “get to the point” video:

 

[Chuck51]

Video is very helpful. Thanks. I was hoping to go for the cheaper helicoil but maybe I need to put out the additional dollars , if for no other reason, to remind me to drag the torque wrench out every time I work on this stuff.

 

[ferguson]

You have to tap it out to a larger size for the Helicoil . Can just drill the hole to except a larger bolt in the cap ? If its a bolt head clearance is a isue you can you use a allen head bolt ? On the broken ear cut & grind a NUT to replace the broken ear Space . This should allow you to tighten that bolt with even presure. Pictures will help ? Have a L3130 also not exactly sure were your talking about?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I‘d appreciate some advice on this. The front axle has been leaking fluid. In taking it apart, I found one of the bottom bolt ears on the axle cover has broken off (although still in place) and the bolt hole for the adjacent bolt is stripped. I replaced the bearing and seals (including the large cover o ring) then reassembled but it still leaks. I suspect the stripped bolt hole is the reason I’m still getting leakage. It appears the bolt with the broken ear is still applying some pressure on the o ring seal. In dealing with the stripped hole, can I just use a helicoil to repair this? Is this strong enough? Would a Time-sert be better? Is drilling through and just putting a nut on the backside an option?

I’m also wondering if the lack of an axle vent contributes to this? Thanks for any advice you can give me.

The usual reason ears on things like that get broken off is the mating surfaces are not clean and flat. One little high spot or a bit of debris caught between the parts is all it takes.....

Dan

 

[GeoHorn]

Odd thing…. forum software says Hokie quoted me…but instead…Chuck51 is what shows:

 

[TheOldHokie]

Odd thing…. forum software says Hokie quoted me…but instead…Chuck51 is what shows:

View attachment 91774

Because by mistake the post originally quoted both of you and I edited it to remove the reference to you.

Dan

 

[Chuck51]

Thanks to all again for your thoughts. I now have a time sert kit so will install this week and see if I still have a leak. I decided to go with the time sert as they appear to be better on parts that occasionally get disassembled.