I've got a '99 L3010, and about a year ago, the glow plug console light started going out before starting. then after a few seconds, it comes on while the engine is running. Now it seems to have a mind of it's own, as it goes on an off randomly. Engine starts fine, although takes a little longer in cold weather. 483 hrs, and not really rode hard (a lot anyway). Is this a glow plug issue or monitor, or...?
L3010 Glow Plug Light
- Thread starter filldirt
- Start date
I don't have an answer for you, but my previous L3410 started the same thing at about 1000h. Never had a problem starting it even in single digit temps, and I sold the tractor without bothering to fix it. It operated fine for 300h with the light coming on at random times.
I am curious what you determine the problem is...
I am curious what you determine the problem is...
That system uses automatic glow plugs....
There is a controller, relay, and wiring-all work in conjunction with the key switch and the coolant temperature sensor.
The relay is an easy test. Energize it with +12v and ground from a battery, then test the other two terminals-should be 0 ohms between those two. Anything else, the relay is bad. I generally test it several times and kind of bump it a little while testing, to simulate the tractor's operation.
Coolant temp sensor is also an easy test. Ohm meter across the terminals and watch the resistance. It should change smoothly as the engine warms up. I forget what the actual resistance readings are, but your service manual will have that info in it.
The glow controller, however, doesn't have a reliable test. Therefore, test the other components-and the wiring-and all of those check out properly, then replace the controller.
USUALLY (but not always) the controller is the culprit; the new controller is a different part number than the original. This tells me that a change was made to it; whether it was with the circuitry or it's a different color plastic housing, or if it just came from a different factory in Timbuktu, I don't know. All I know is that there was a change made.
There's another way to test the system around the controller but the most reliable test method is by referring to the WSM and use of a good digital volt-ohm meter.
There is a controller, relay, and wiring-all work in conjunction with the key switch and the coolant temperature sensor.
The relay is an easy test. Energize it with +12v and ground from a battery, then test the other two terminals-should be 0 ohms between those two. Anything else, the relay is bad. I generally test it several times and kind of bump it a little while testing, to simulate the tractor's operation.
Coolant temp sensor is also an easy test. Ohm meter across the terminals and watch the resistance. It should change smoothly as the engine warms up. I forget what the actual resistance readings are, but your service manual will have that info in it.
The glow controller, however, doesn't have a reliable test. Therefore, test the other components-and the wiring-and all of those check out properly, then replace the controller.
USUALLY (but not always) the controller is the culprit; the new controller is a different part number than the original. This tells me that a change was made to it; whether it was with the circuitry or it's a different color plastic housing, or if it just came from a different factory in Timbuktu, I don't know. All I know is that there was a change made.
There's another way to test the system around the controller but the most reliable test method is by referring to the WSM and use of a good digital volt-ohm meter.