I have a Kubota L2950 that won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but the tractor won't turn over. I placed a multimeter on the battery which registers at 12.5 volts. Can someone give me any suggestions on my next step? I know some basics but don't have great experience with working on tractors. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Also, can someone tell me exactly what it is I'm looking at in this photo beyond the starter? I'm wondering what the wiring is?
L2950 won't start
- Thread starter cryswhite
- Start date
Take the battery to a local auto parts house and have them load test it. Probably need a new one.
Yeah, 12.5 volts is low.
OP, if you have jumper cables and know how to use them, you could try jumping it off first
Russell King
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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The picture you posted shows the solenoid (silver capped round thing on the larger round starter)
Behind that with the wires is a large (main) fuse that was installed in place of a fusible link (probably) and serves the same purpose
That is so what of an odd looking starter and solenoid so please post a picture from further away of the same area of the tractor
Behind that with the wires is a large (main) fuse that was installed in place of a fusible link (probably) and serves the same purpose
That is so what of an odd looking starter and solenoid so please post a picture from further away of the same area of the tractor
Is everything (PTO disengaged, clutch/brake, etc.) properly set for the safety switches not to be preventing cranking? Maybe a bad safety switch (try cycling items that have a safety switch attached).
Have someone bump the start switch while you have your meter probes directly on the battery posts (NOT the terminal connectors) and see what it reads. Then read the voltage from the negative battery post to a good ground while bumping the starter. Do the same with one lead on the positive battery post and the other on the large positive lead on the starter.
Post to post on the battery will show the actual battery voltage under load if the start system is trying to work. Voltage should be near zero from negative battery post to ground and from positive battery post to positive terminal on starter during start condition. A high reading with either of these indicates a problem with the battery terminal connector, cable, or connector/connection for the ground or far end of the positive cable respectively.
Rodger
Have someone bump the start switch while you have your meter probes directly on the battery posts (NOT the terminal connectors) and see what it reads. Then read the voltage from the negative battery post to a good ground while bumping the starter. Do the same with one lead on the positive battery post and the other on the large positive lead on the starter.
Post to post on the battery will show the actual battery voltage under load if the start system is trying to work. Voltage should be near zero from negative battery post to ground and from positive battery post to positive terminal on starter during start condition. A high reading with either of these indicates a problem with the battery terminal connector, cable, or connector/connection for the ground or far end of the positive cable respectively.
Rodger
Here are a few more pics of the starter! I agree in comparing other starters, this one is definitely different. In just trying to figure out where the solenoid is so I can actually test it. Are you able to label it on the photo for me?
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I'm not sure where the safety switches are located on the tractor. I've tried looking online for diagrams and have so far had no luck. Are you aware of what safety switches there are and where they are located for this particular model? (L2950). I will try your suggestions. Wish me luck!! Thank you for the advice!
I believe the L2950 only has two safety switches, one is activated by the PTO lever and the other by the transmission but I am not familiar with the transmission options for this tractor. Typically a gear type has a clutch activated switch while the hydrostat will sense neutral either by a forward/reverse selector lever with neutral in the center or by the pedal control being released to neutral.
The positive connection to the starter lug looks pretty ugly. For curiosity, put one meter lead on the cable lug and the other on the starter terminal post and see if you get a voltage reading in the start position indicating a bad connection there.
Rodger
The positive connection to the starter lug looks pretty ugly. For curiosity, put one meter lead on the cable lug and the other on the starter terminal post and see if you get a voltage reading in the start position indicating a bad connection there.
Rodger
Hi there,
I've included two pictures using the multimeter. In the first I have one lead on the positive cable lug and one on the starter terminal post. As you can see I don't get a reading at all. In the second picture I have one lead on the terminal post and one on the end where that black and white wire attach at the starter (not sure if this is relevant or not) but it did give a reading, although it was very unstable! I really appreciate all your help!!
In the first photo, was the no reading while the ignition was in the start position? Put the red lead on the starter stud and the black lead on ground (block or mounting bolt) and check the voltage in the off and start positions.
Rodger
Rodger
Yes, in the first photo there was no reading with the ignition in the On position. I put the red lead on the starter stud and the black lead on the mounting bolt and in the start position I got nothing, in the off position I didn't get a reading but it was almost as if it was trying (V was flashing on and off) but I didn't get a reading!
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Educated guess is that the solenoid is beneath and behind the starter with the wires going to it.
I am also second guessing myself on the square box thing that looks like two wires go to it... if two wires then that should be a fuse. If there are three or four wires then that would probably be a relay to help supply power from the key switch to the starter.
The relay should be one wire from battery, one wire to starter solenoid, one wire from key switch (black with white stripe normally that normally goes through safety switches and then connects to the smaller terminal on the starter solenoid) and one ground wire.
The fuse is probably battery to starter to fuse to other parts of tractor that need power like the key switch or other relays.
As corroded as it looks at the starter mount, disconnect the ground lead from the battery and then remove the starter from engine and clean the face of starter and mounting surface so you have a good ground there.
You could attach the ground of your jump pack directly to the starter bolt (but they look corroded also) to see if that helps anything. Replace battery with a known good battery
Your alternator is suspect due to the obvious damage to the case. Do you know if it is operating properly?
I am also second guessing myself on the square box thing that looks like two wires go to it... if two wires then that should be a fuse. If there are three or four wires then that would probably be a relay to help supply power from the key switch to the starter.
The relay should be one wire from battery, one wire to starter solenoid, one wire from key switch (black with white stripe normally that normally goes through safety switches and then connects to the smaller terminal on the starter solenoid) and one ground wire.
The fuse is probably battery to starter to fuse to other parts of tractor that need power like the key switch or other relays.
As corroded as it looks at the starter mount, disconnect the ground lead from the battery and then remove the starter from engine and clean the face of starter and mounting surface so you have a good ground there.
You could attach the ground of your jump pack directly to the starter bolt (but they look corroded also) to see if that helps anything. Replace battery with a known good battery
Your alternator is suspect due to the obvious damage to the case. Do you know if it is operating properly?
So through the process of elimination I found out the problem was an issue with the wire from the key to the starter. I was able to start the tractor by putting cables from the battery to the connector on the starter where the key wire goes and it started. Thanks guys!
I see rusty connections.
START THERE.
Clean ALL of the connections. Battery terminals and cables, both ends.
Do the boring, tedious, basic maintenance before you go crazy with other things. It needs to be done anyway.
12.5 might be a tad low, but it should still turn over.
START THERE.
Clean ALL of the connections. Battery terminals and cables, both ends.
Do the boring, tedious, basic maintenance before you go crazy with other things. It needs to be done anyway.
12.5 might be a tad low, but it should still turn over.
Glad you got it going!
I agree with Mark that when you find a little spare time, go through and clean up those connections which will greatly decrease the odds of other issues popping up in the future.
Rodger
I agree with Mark that when you find a little spare time, go through and clean up those connections which will greatly decrease the odds of other issues popping up in the future.
Rodger
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Glad you got it figured out
The wire from the key switch to the starter goes through at least one safety switch.
The safety switch(es) are often the culprit of not having 12 volts on the small wire at the starter
The wire from the key switch to the starter goes through at least one safety switch.
The safety switch(es) are often the culprit of not having 12 volts on the small wire at the starter