L275 clutch adjustment question - dual disk

whitetiger

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The adjustment bolts that affect your PTO engagement are #11 in the PDF. The measurement is between the bolt head and the ear of #4.
In the picture you posted it appears to be just above the window.
 

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timsch

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'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
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Houston, TX
So, it's taken a while, but I finally think I understand what needs to be done. 1st thing will be to remove the FEL, because if there's an access to adjust bolt #11 referred above, it'll be behind my FEL mounting bracket. The access plate I've been taking pictures of looks to mainly adjust engagement from pedal stroke and isn't my problem here. All of these things were mentioned in this thread by you already, so thanks for that. It's just taken awhile to get through my thick skull.
 
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timsch

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'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
105
21
18
Houston, TX
Finally got the access port uncovered and opened. The rust was pretty bad. I soaked the adjustment screws with Kroil a few times and left it to sit overnight. I'll see if they'll move later today.

I've seen posts where people recommend filling the bell housing as much as possible with Coke to eat the rust, then draining and rinsing. I looked last night for a drain, and thought I might have found one right below where the clutch is, but the hole bottomed out just below the threads and doesn't go through.

It is a fine threaded 12mm head bolt, so not big enough to mount anything from. It's right where the FEL bottom part of the frame mounts, but has nothing to do with the FEL. It's halfway backed out in the picture below. It's almost as if it's there to be drilled through if someone wanted to have a drain.

Anyone know what this is for?


IMG_20240511_192026751.jpg


As bad as the surface rust is, there's no issue with disengaging the clutch to change gears. Just the PTO disengagement that's the problem now.

Shame on me for not blocking the pedal down, but double shame on me for not checking that the side access port cover plate (thumbnail shown in post #1) was tight after I pulled it off to check things this past summer. Sitting outside allowed rain to seep behind it and here i am now....
 

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timsch

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'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
105
21
18
Houston, TX
Got the adjustment done. That was a real relief even being able to get the screws to move after seeing all of that rust. Now I just have to finish wrestling with the FEL mounting pieces. I'm close, but no cigar yet.

Any ideas on that bolt hole I mentioned in the previous post?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I don't find any mention of that bolt / plug in any of the prints I look at.
Could be that that housing was for a different model.
 

007kubotaguy

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The 12 mm head bolt you refer to is a drain. I think if you remove it you will probably find it goes through to the clutch housing but is probably full of garbage. When these tractors were new we took the plugs out so that housing would drain.
 
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timsch

Member

Equipment
'49 8N, L275DT
Jun 11, 2018
105
21
18
Houston, TX
The 12 mm head bolt you refer to is a drain. I think if you remove it you will probably find it goes through to the clutch housing but is probably full of garbage. When these tractors were new we took the plugs out so that housing would drain.
I was hoping it was a drain. When I pulled the plug, it looked to be a threaded but not a thru hole. Clean metal is all I thought I saw.

I'll pull it again tonight and probe with a pick.

EDIT:

Yep, it was a drain. The clutch assembly itself must be very close to the bottom of the bell housing. I didn't see a gap but did feel it with a pick.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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