L225 Kubota Loader Quick Disconnect

[bidwars]

I have a 1976 L225 Kubota with a loader attached. Is there a way to replace the hydraulic hoses and add quick disconnect connectors so I can take off the loader when not using it? It needs many of the hydraulic hoses replaced anyways. Do you think the tractor pressure would support the connectors?

Thanks for the help

 

[Russell King]

Yes to both questions.

But how difficult is it to remove the loader? Do you have a way to store the loader or does it have some built in legs that hold it in a position where it can be removed and re-installed?

Does the loader valve stay on the tractor or go off with the loader? That will determine where you want to install the disconnects. Your tractor probably doesn’t have much flow rate unless there is a separate pump which is not obvious in your picture.

You may want to get fittings and/or adapters to get hoses with JIC 37 degree female swivel ends that are easy to install.

A few hoses (5-6) will run into 2-3 hundred dollars depending on length.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can not simply disconnect all the lines, you must keep a loop from the pump to the Power beyond/ tank open or you will dead head the pump.
This is done with either a loop of hose or male /female on the pump output and the PB input.

 

[bidwars]

Yes to both questions.

But how difficult is it to remove the loader? Do you have a way to store the loader or does it have some built in legs that hold it in a position where it can be removed and re-installed?

Does the loader valve stay on the tractor or go off with the loader? That will determine where you want to install the disconnects. Your tractor probably doesn’t have much flow rate unless there is a separate pump which is not obvious in your picture.

You may want to get fittings and/or adapters to get hoses with JIC 37 degree female swivel ends that are easy to install.

A few hoses (5-6) will run into 2-3 hundred dollars depending on length.

It is not difficult to remove the loader. Problem is the power beyond unit is welded directly on the loader and not the loader frame. It looks like I can weld a new support directly on the loader frame and then attach quick disconnects to bottom 4 connections to the loader. Replace the loader connection bolts with hitch pins and then should be good to go. From the way I understand the power beyond it should keep flowing from the inlet to outlet.

 

[TheOldHokie]

It is not difficult to remove the loader. Problem is the power beyond unit is welded directly on the loader and not the loader frame. It looks like I can weld a new support directly on the loader frame and then attach quick disconnects to bottom 4 connections to the loader. Replace the loader connection bolts with hitch pins and then should be good to go. From the way I understand the power beyond it should keep flowing from the inlet to outlet.

If you are lucky and the port spacing is wide enough you can put the quick couplers right on the work ports in the valve. That is not always the case.

Dan

 

[Russell King]

The flow should be something along the lines of Pump —>power into valve—>out of the valve power beyond—>back into tractor piping—>to three point lift hydraulics—>dumps back into the sump.

The valve diverts the flow to the cylinder ONLY when you activate one of the valves by moving a lever.

The valve can be left in the circuit and no piping has to be changed.

The valve can be removed from the circuit but then the power out of the pump has to be connected back to the power beyond from the valve. That could be done with having a union between the two hoses (union is in place of the valve). It could also be a shorter loop of hose where the ends (farthest from the valve) connect to the tractor.

As stated above that loop must be restored if you have to get the valve out of the circuit.

 

[bidwars]

The flow should be something along the lines of Pump —>power into valve—>out of the valve power beyond—>back into tractor piping—>to three point lift hydraulics—>dumps back into the sump.

The valve diverts the flow to the cylinder ONLY when you activate one of the valves by moving a lever.

The valve can be left in the circuit and no piping has to be changed.

The valve can be removed from the circuit but then the power out of the pump has to be connected back to the power beyond from the valve. That could be done with having a union between the two hoses (union is in place of the valve). It could also be a shorter loop of hose where the ends (farthest from the valve) connect to the tractor.

As stated above that loop must be restored if you have to get the valve out of the circuit.

Also trying to figure out what some of the hydraulic hoses should go to. Here are some pictures.

 

[Russell King]

Well that is something…

It looks like there is some sort of rear connection point that is half connected. The one disconnected hose end would probably be connected to the tractor or valve somehow and used to get fluid to the disconnect. The other disconnect would be return oil from the implement that is dumped back through the three point system into the tractor sump.

I would think it was used for something that had a control valve like a log splitter.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Also trying to figure out what some of the hydraulic hoses should go to. Here are some pictures.

That is someone's hack at getting a single action cylinder to work off the three point control.
The line that is not connected to anything would have went to a fitting on the oil fill port in the back.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Also trying to figure out what some of the hydraulic hoses should go to. Here are some pictures.

Someone has been hacking the hydraulics. I think you need to post some more pictures showing how rhe loader valve is connected to the tractor.

Dan

 

[bidwars]

Someone has been hacking the hydraulics. I think you need to post some more pictures showing how rhe loader valve is connected to the tractor.

Dan

I am just going to remove all the back hydraulic extra's on the tractor and put a plug where that comes out from the 3pt. Does anyone know if this plug is anything special? The part number needed is Kubota 34150-27590 and Kubota 04714-00300 for the gasket. Could I just get a metric bolt to go there with a washer?

 

[TheOldHokie]

I am just going to remove all the back hydraulic extra's on the tractor and put a plug where that comes out from the 3pt. Does anyone know if this plug is anything special? The part number needed is Kubota 34150-27590 and Kubota 04714-00300 for the gasket. Could I just get a metric bolt to go there with a washer?

It is a BSPP plug not meteric

The the threads in the port were also BSPP until Bubba jammed a NPT fitting into it. You need to get a BSPP plug and washer then hope the port threads have not been damaged beyond use.

Dan

 

[pwogaman]

It is a BSPP plug not meteric

The the threads in the port were also BSPP until Bubba jammed a NPT fitting into it. You need to get a BSPP plug and washer then hope the port threads have not been damaged beyond use.

Dan

I acquired a L225 with a bunch of fittings slapped together in this same port and I also want to remove all of it and simply plug the port.

It appears to be a BSPP 3/8 fitting, approximately 16.1mm OD threads. Is 3/8 the right size?

I am not interested in paying OE prices when I can get a standard hydraulic plug for under $5.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I acquired a L225 with a bunch of fittings slapped together in this same port and I also want to remove all of it and simply plug the port.

It appears to be a BSPP 3/8 fitting, approximately 16.1mm OD threads. Is 3/8 the right size?

I am not interested in paying OE prices when I can get a standard hydraulic plug for under $5.

All I can tell you for a fact is the OD of a male 3/8 BSPP thread is .65" (16.5mm).

J suggest you invest $5 and see how a BSPP plug fits. If some ham handed previous owner has buggered the threads in the port with a missmatched fitting a thread repair may be in your futurr.. i would think considerably more $$$ than the OEM plug.

Dan

 

[Fedup]

I acquired a L225 with a bunch of fittings slapped together in this same port and I also want to remove all of it and simply plug the port.

It appears to be a BSPP 3/8 fitting, approximately 16.1mm OD threads. Is 3/8 the right size?

I am not interested in paying OE prices when I can get a standard hydraulic plug for under $5.

Always plenty of comments/opinions on this sort of thing. Here's one more.

I suggest you study a bit and confirm just what ports/fittings you're talking about BEFORE you start removing things and plugging ports. Hydraulic fluid needs to follow certain paths or damage (or even injury) can occur. Your choice.

 

[TheOldHokie]

This port is the one pictured in this thread. It is plugged from the factory and anything connected to it can be removed and safely plugged.

Dan