Kubota Riding Mower Engine Swap

[dhull213]

I have a '94-'95 T1460 12.5HP Kubota rider with an engine that apparently has finally given up. Funny thing is that the mower ran just fine until two weeks ago after putting it in the shed and turning it off. The next time I went to the shed, it refused to start and just backfired when I cranked it.

I had a small-engine guy look at it and he said that it sounded like it had jumped timing. He re-set the timing and got it to start, but it quit almost immediately. He found oil in the carburetor and said that the block is cracked.

Over the past couple of years I've replaced all the belts, the blades and did some transmission work on it, so the rest of the mower is too good to scrap. My local dealer has a motor that they say will work in it, but the cost will be about $1500, which I don't have to spend.

On craigslist, I found someone in a neighboring town who has a T1700x that he is selling. The body is rough but he says the motor runs great and the HST is smooth. He's asking $400 OBO, so I'm thinking about picking it up and scavenging parts for mine.

Question is, will the T1700X's 17HP engine fit in my tractor? I've obtained motor parts breakdowns for both models and looked at pictures of the one for sale and they look identical as much as I can see. My local dealer's service department couldn't answer the question because they've never done an engine swap like that.

Does anyone know if there is enough of a difference in these two engines to prevent the swap? How difficult is it to pull the motor from one of these riders?

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Oil in the carb doesn't add up and make sense. All the lawn mowers I've ever owned the car is up higher on the engine block and the oil is ofcourse down low. If the block was cracked seems to me it would have to be up high for it to flow into the carb.

You would have noticed it on your own alot sooner if it seems like your burning up more oil then usual. Is this dude a reputable small engine mechanic?

 

[Dave_eng]

The critical factor is engine shaft size. Once you start changing shaft sizes the job gets much more complicated. At some horsepower rating there is a jump up in shaft size and I suspect with the change you are proposing you may be at that point.

An alternative to a cobbled together engine swap would be to buy a new Briggs & Stratton 12.5 HP from someone like Northern tool for about the same money. You would still have to verify engine shaft size but stand a much better chance of them being the same as the HP is the same. Manufacturers follow some society of automotive engineers standards for bolt circle for the mounting bolts. Take careful measurements before you take the leap.

Briggs & Stratton Intek Vertical OHV Engine — 12 1/2 HP, 344cc, 1in. x 3 5/32in.L Shaft, Electric Start with Recoil Backup, Model# 219907-3029-G5 $469 on sale.

You could also buy a new Honda engine but would pay more than double for questionable benefit in lawn cutting use.

Dave M7040

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

dhull213, From what I just looked up it look like it's the same motor, HP and size, so it should be a strait swap.
I'm not 100% sure so Verify it and go for it.

 

[Dave_eng]

dhull213, From what I just looked up it look like it's the same motor, HP and size, so.
it should be a strait swap.
I'm not 100% sure so Verify it and go for it.

I am confused by your post. The owner already said the used motor was 17 HP and his original was 12.5.
I am not trying to be rube but wonder if I missed your point.
Dave m

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Dave_eng, Sometimes I confuse myself, Sorry I did look up and compare the wrong models.
They are both Kawasaki one cyl gasoline engines but yes different HP's.

 

[motorhead]

Have you dug into the engine that is on your tractor? Kawasaki singles are damn good engines. I have a John Deere Lawn mower with the 4.5hp Kawasaki and it is 26 years old and other than resealing the crankcase a few times, It runs like new. Being an overhead valve engine, I'd pull the valve cover and make sure a push rod didn't slip away from the rocker arm or a push rod some how bent.

 

[Apogee]

My gut tells me you are having your chain yanked. If it was running fine when you put it away, then it might have jumped timing as previously stated.

**THE BLOCK DID NOT CRACK BY ITSELF WHEN IT WASN'T RUNNING**

I second Motorhead; Kawasaki builds very good engines!

The oil you see in the carb is likely due to the crankcase vent being plumbed into the air cleaner like 99% of most mowers. If the engine has any blow-by, then you will see oil in the carb...

Did this person show you the crack and explain how and why oil was getting into the carb? Are they a legit small engine mechanic with a real mower shop, or a wanna-be you found off Craigslist?

Take it to a Kubota dealer and have them look at it. Likely needs a new ignition component, tune up, or something like that.

If it does need a new engine, that other Kawasaki would be my choice as long as it doesn't have a million hours on it.