Kubota oil alternatives

Trash Panda

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The 4.0L in my '98 TJ isn't gutless at all. The 4.56 gears I installed in the Jeep a month after buying it might help though. šŸ˜‚ The Banks header and exhaust system probably help too, but at 200 hp it's a very decent motor for that vehicle. I've had that Jeep for more than 25 years. I'm going to weld up another Poison Spyder roll cage for it this summer and sell the Poison Spyder cage that I installed in it years ago.
Suppose I’m a bit biased since my cross-country trip in a 4.0 TJ. Pulling down 12mpg while struggling to maintain 70mph in a headwind really stuck with me.

They are great little motors, just definitely not suited for that particular application.
 

McMXi

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Suppose I’m a bit biased since my cross-country trip in a 4.0 TJ. Pulling down 12mpg while struggling to maintain 70mph in a headwind really stuck with me.

They are great little motors, just definitely not suited for that particular application.
Out of interest, is that the stock 3.07 gear ratio with 31" tires? šŸ˜‚
 

McMXi

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Suppose I’m a bit biased since my cross-country trip in a 4.0 TJ. Pulling down 12mpg while struggling to maintain 70mph in a headwind really stuck with me.

They are great little motors, just definitely not suited for that particular application.
November of 2016 I was on my way to Belt, MT to spend Thanksgiving with some friends and took this photo. Yep, that 4.0L sure is gutless. This was on the I-15 which is a very windy stretch of highway and in a Jeep with the aerodynamics of a brick. šŸ˜‚šŸ˜‚šŸ˜‚ 31" tires and 4.56 gears and 15 mpg under most conditions.

But I run Mobil 1 in the Jeep (normally) and not cooking oil ... yeah, that must be why. šŸ˜‚

01.jpg
 

Trash Panda

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November of 2016 I was on my way to Belt, MT to spend Thanksgiving with some friends and took this photo. Yep, that 4.0L sure is gutless. This was on the I-15 which is a very windy stretch of highway and in a Jeep with the aerodynamics of a brick. šŸ˜‚šŸ˜‚šŸ˜‚ 31" tires and 4.56 gears and 15 mpg under most conditions.

View attachment 173101
4.56’s sure have a way of waking up the driving experience of anything….

That is a LOT of mechanical advantage.

I-15 has wind, but definitely not the I-80 wind I get to experience here in Wyoming lol
 

McMXi

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4.56’s sure have a way of waking up the driving experience of anything….

That is a LOT of mechanical advantage.

I-15 has wind, but definitely not the I-80 wind I get to experience here in Wyoming lol
For sure! There has been no downside to the swap. I was active on a Jeep forum back then and all the armchair experts warned me against swapping out the gears myself since it was my first time doing it. 25 years and over 100,000 miles later and still no issues, no noise, no vibration, no odd wear. You have to laugh at all the internet "experts" on every forum.

Interestingly, my average fuel mileage dropped by 0.5 mpg at most but my crawl ratio went from 32:1 to 47.5:1 and that's with the factory 2.72:1 transfer case ratio.

If you think that there isn't much in the way of wind on the Eastern side of the Rocky Mountain Front you need to spend some time in places like Browning, Great Falls, Glasgow, etc. I don't know anything about the conditions in WI but that I-15 corridor up into Canada is famously windy.
 

Trash Panda

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For sure! There has been no downside to the swap. I was active on a Jeep forum back then and all the armchair experts warned me against swapping out the gears myself since it was my first time doing it. 25 years and over 100,000 miles later and still no issues, no noise, no vibration, no odd wear. You have to laugh at all the internet "experts" on every forum.

Interestingly, my average fuel mileage dropped by 0.5 mpg at most but my crawl ratio went from 32:1 to 47.5:1 and that's with the factory 2.72:1 transfer case ratio.
Manufactures love sticking too tall a gear in just about everything. It’s exacerbated if you want any sort of grunt out of the vehicle.

My 400 horse Ram CTD benefited greatly from a swap to 4.10’s from the factory 3.73’s.
 
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McMXi

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Manufactures love sticking too tall a gear in just about everything. It’s exacerbated if you want any sort of grunt out of the vehicle.

My 400 horse Ram CTD benefited greatly from a swap to 4.10’s from the factory 3.73’s.
My F-250 has a 3.73 rear end but my F-450 is a 4.30. I know which one I like when it comes to towing.

Apologies for the sidetrack but I get defensive re the 4.0L in the Jeep. Such a great engine with some limitations of course, fuel consumption being one of them. It's one of the reasons why I removed the factory 19 gallon plastic fuel tank and installed an aluminum 25 gallon tank. That extra 100 miles of range makes all the difference up here, not to mention the puncture resistance from the aluminum and much heavier skid plate that came with the tank.
 

Trash Panda

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My F-250 has a 3.73 rear end but my F-450 is a 4.30. I know which one I like when it comes to towing.

Apologies for the sidetrack but I get defensive re the 4.0L in the Jeep. Such a great engine with some limitations of course, fuel consumption being one of them. It's one of the reasons why I removed the factory 19 gallon fuel tank and installed an aluminum 25 gallon tank. That extra 100 miles of range makes all the difference up here, not to mention the puncture resistance from the aluminum and much heavier skid plate that came with the tank.
Who needs horsepower when you’ve got mechanical advantage!
 
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McMXi

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I switched to Rotella for the engine, but I ā€œpay the manā€ and use the SUDT2 for the hydraulics.
The M6060 hydraulic oil capacity is 68.7 quarts (17.2 gallons) and the MX is 55.3 quarts (13.8 gallons) so I'm open to the idea of a suitable alternative to UDT2. Cold weather properties are an important consideration for me, and there are some published specs for comparative purposes.

If oil choice will keep you awake at night then it makes sense to stay with products recommended by the manufacturer. It's by far the simplest and easiest approach. If prices are similar I see no reason to deviate, or if specs are unavailable I definitely see no reason to deviate. However, when reasonable comparisons can be made between products, and if those products are sufficiently different in cost, then it might be worth putting some work in to determine if something else will perform just as well.
 

Botamon

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I have a Kubota LX 2610 SU and went to the place where I bought my tractor and they wanted 65.00 for a jug of oil. 2.5 gal. Im looking for alternatives as that price doesn't fit my financial situation,,,

Looking for sound alternatives
Please clarify. Are you talking engine oil or hydraulic oil?????
 

GeoHorn

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A sludged-up engine occurred to my 305 Mercury Grand-Marquis… I blamed it on the Pennzoil conventional…but it may have had an internal coolant leak it was so bad.

Anyone who thought the 4L straight-6 Jeep was 1) gutless, or 2) defective…. simply had a bad experience…because those engines were neither. A fuel-injected, cast-iron block…. pulled my Large boat and utility trailers effortlessly….and I experienced low-maintenance and long-life. In twelve yrs I had to replace a radiator…but that wasn’t the engine’s fault….. and I replaced the water-pump at the same time just for good-measure.

Lost the alternator at 240K …. Replaced the battery 2 or 3 times. Several sets of tires and front brake pads. A muffler at ten years. One headlamp, and a tail-light that got crunched in a parking lot minor-fender-bender.

A great little Jeep Cherokee. …until it was totalled at 330K miles.
 
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