I am getting diesel to the pump but no diesel at the injectors. I assume this means I need an injector pump. Does anyone have a pump for a l185
Kubota l185 fuel injector pump
- Thread starter Jkconley57
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Yes
I loosened the line on injector and turned tractor over and diesel just barely comes through the line.
I loosened the line on injector and turned tractor over and diesel just barely comes through the line.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I suggest you try this:
Take the fuel line off of the injection pump and see how much fuel is getting to the injection pump. It should be a full stream through the line, not a trickle. If it is a trickle, then you need to find the blockage in the fuel flow, which is probably being caused by rust in the tank. Replace the line onto the injection pump. If you have already done this then ignore this suggestion but tell us how much fuel flow you have.
Then open the air bleed valve on the injection pump (looks like a bolt into a larger hex where the line connects to the pump. You can remove the whole bolt but you really only need to turn it a few turns to expose a little hole in the side. Diesel fuel should be running out so you need to have some catch pan involved and clean up the mess on the pump afterwards. Let it run for a bit to eliminate any air between the tank and the injection pump.
Then, holding the larger nuts on top of the injection pump, remove the nuts holding the injector line. Then remove the nut at the injectors and the clamps that hold the lines together and remove the lines from the tractor. While they are removed you may as well clean the interior by blowing through them (or replace them if they are in bad shape). Then with the lines removed, pull out the decompression knob (so engine spins easily and faster) and see how much fuel is being pumped out of the injection pump outlets.
I don’t really know what the injection pump will output but it should be a fair amount on each stroke.
If everything looks good, install the clean lines leaving the injector end attached but loose, and crank tractor engine in short spells with the decompression knob pulled out to avoid starter damage. When you see no more air bubbles being formed at the injector connection, bleed it a couple more times for good measure and then tighten up the nut on the injector.
Use the glow plugs for a good slow count of 15 and then crank engine using the decompression knob until the spin speed is maximum and push in the decompression knob and it should try to start. Repeat start sequence until it stays running!
If you need a “new” then you will probably have to have yours rebuilt by a good shop like Oregon Fuel Injection. They may have a rebuilt one to purchase but will want your core (I think). You may have a good local shop but they might be afraid of trying to repair yours?
oregonfuelinjection.com
Take the fuel line off of the injection pump and see how much fuel is getting to the injection pump. It should be a full stream through the line, not a trickle. If it is a trickle, then you need to find the blockage in the fuel flow, which is probably being caused by rust in the tank. Replace the line onto the injection pump. If you have already done this then ignore this suggestion but tell us how much fuel flow you have.
Then open the air bleed valve on the injection pump (looks like a bolt into a larger hex where the line connects to the pump. You can remove the whole bolt but you really only need to turn it a few turns to expose a little hole in the side. Diesel fuel should be running out so you need to have some catch pan involved and clean up the mess on the pump afterwards. Let it run for a bit to eliminate any air between the tank and the injection pump.
Then, holding the larger nuts on top of the injection pump, remove the nuts holding the injector line. Then remove the nut at the injectors and the clamps that hold the lines together and remove the lines from the tractor. While they are removed you may as well clean the interior by blowing through them (or replace them if they are in bad shape). Then with the lines removed, pull out the decompression knob (so engine spins easily and faster) and see how much fuel is being pumped out of the injection pump outlets.
I don’t really know what the injection pump will output but it should be a fair amount on each stroke.
If everything looks good, install the clean lines leaving the injector end attached but loose, and crank tractor engine in short spells with the decompression knob pulled out to avoid starter damage. When you see no more air bubbles being formed at the injector connection, bleed it a couple more times for good measure and then tighten up the nut on the injector.
Use the glow plugs for a good slow count of 15 and then crank engine using the decompression knob until the spin speed is maximum and push in the decompression knob and it should try to start. Repeat start sequence until it stays running!
If you need a “new” then you will probably have to have yours rebuilt by a good shop like Oregon Fuel Injection. They may have a rebuilt one to purchase but will want your core (I think). You may have a good local shop but they might be afraid of trying to repair yours?
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Oregon Fuel Injection specializes in the repair of diesel fuel injection systems, replacement diesel parts, performance parts, drive-in service, repairs and diagnostics.
oregonfuelinjection.com
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
That sounds normal, these tractors use very little fuel.
Take a video of the output and I can tell you it's normal or not.
and if there is air in the lines it will not move fuel in a normal manner.