Its a Ransomes out front lawn mower, so constructed in USA. What I find puzzling is that the solenoid does not react when a current is added, the existing and new behave the same. I could get a seriel number off the engine?
Kubota D1105 3 cylinder
- Thread starter Roy Wiggins
- Start date
This helps a bit.
@PoTreeBoy brings up a good point about the solenoid in your tractor and it's actions.
It's kinda the reason I was trying to separate the solenoid and injection pump in this discussion.
So, on the 1105, I assumed it meant that energized, it turns the rack off. However, the solenoid appears to have 2 wire contacts in a picture I saw.
So I found this conversation: It is a Terramite with D1105 engine:
www.tractorbynet.com
Has some links to manuals as well as troubleshooting.
Also this is what @PoTreeBoy was describing:
Interesting points about safety switches potentially causing starting issues.
I don't want to send you down the rabbit hole on this, but it occurred to me that we need to understand what and when the solenoid does it's thing
Also, you said;
"I will try what you have suggested tomorrow and report back. I sent the pump away to be checked and injectors to be rebuilt. Engine was running very rough then would not start."
Also, if the solenoid is operating correctly, why is the injection pump not pumping? If the engine was already running rough, it is possible the lift pump had failed.
I am assuming that the injection pump was returned in good order and working properly as well as the injectors.
The lift pump may still pump when operated manually, but under load the diaphragm may leak and not produce enough pressure to load the injection pump with fuel.
If you go to the Fuel System portion of the manual (Page M25)
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...es/&file=05 series engine workshop manual.pdf
There's a good description of how the system works.
However on page S-151, there is a procedure for checking timing. Note it says to remove the solenoid and push in the rack. (I guess using a punch or something) So it occurred to me; "when the solenoid is energized, does the plunger move IN or OUT"?
Apparently it moves OUT and that turns the rack on. Does your solenoid move in or out when energized?
(FYI, the solenoid on my L35 moves IN) to shut off the rack. But it also depends upon the geometry of your rack lever anyway as to how it turns off.)
I was thinking if you could eliminate the lift pump (or replace - you said you ordered one) and the solenoid from this troubleshooting process, and determine how the rack is supposed to be turned on, then you can determine if the injection pump is working properly.
@PoTreeBoy brings up a good point about the solenoid in your tractor and it's actions.
It's kinda the reason I was trying to separate the solenoid and injection pump in this discussion.
So, on the 1105, I assumed it meant that energized, it turns the rack off. However, the solenoid appears to have 2 wire contacts in a picture I saw.
So I found this conversation: It is a Terramite with D1105 engine:
Kubota D1105 Fuel shutoff issue?
I have a piece of equipment(Terramite t7) with a D1105 engine. It's been running rough for a few days, and checking the service records shows me it overdue for filters. I replaced both(it has a small plastic trash filter near the fuel tank and the cartridge filter bolted to the motor) Fired it...
www.tractorbynet.com
Also this is what @PoTreeBoy was describing:
Interesting points about safety switches potentially causing starting issues.
I don't want to send you down the rabbit hole on this, but it occurred to me that we need to understand what and when the solenoid does it's thing
Also, you said;
"I will try what you have suggested tomorrow and report back. I sent the pump away to be checked and injectors to be rebuilt. Engine was running very rough then would not start."
Also, if the solenoid is operating correctly, why is the injection pump not pumping? If the engine was already running rough, it is possible the lift pump had failed.
I am assuming that the injection pump was returned in good order and working properly as well as the injectors.
The lift pump may still pump when operated manually, but under load the diaphragm may leak and not produce enough pressure to load the injection pump with fuel.
If you go to the Fuel System portion of the manual (Page M25)
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...es/&file=05 series engine workshop manual.pdf
There's a good description of how the system works.
However on page S-151, there is a procedure for checking timing. Note it says to remove the solenoid and push in the rack. (I guess using a punch or something) So it occurred to me; "when the solenoid is energized, does the plunger move IN or OUT"?
Apparently it moves OUT and that turns the rack on. Does your solenoid move in or out when energized?
(FYI, the solenoid on my L35 moves IN) to shut off the rack. But it also depends upon the geometry of your rack lever anyway as to how it turns off.)
I was thinking if you could eliminate the lift pump (or replace - you said you ordered one) and the solenoid from this troubleshooting process, and determine how the rack is supposed to be turned on, then you can determine if the injection pump is working properly.
whitetiger
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A very simple test to see if you have an electrical or mechanical problem, remove the shut-off solenoid and crank the engine. If it pumps fuel, you have an electrical problem, if it does not you have a mechanical problem.
I have removed the solenoid and cranked the engine on the starter, it does not pump fuel, as you say suggesting a mechanical issue
I have got fuel to the injectors - at last! Solenoid is removed but engine shows no sign of starting. Next check is the lift pump, new one in the post!
Do tell Roy: How did you manage to get fuel to the injectors?
What was wrong with the injector pump you were able to correct?
What was wrong with the injector pump you were able to correct?
Hi
There is a lug on the sliding fuel shut-off bar that engages with the spring loaded shut-off lever on the outside of the housing. IF the exterior fuel shut-off lever is not held against the spring the lug engages in the wrong place and therefor shuts off fuel. Can not see this spring loaded lever from my side of the engine. When you know, you know.
New lift pump arrived, just hop that solves the starting problem.
Many thanks thus far for all the assistance to the rookie!
Good Morning Gentlemen
Well I got fuel to the injectors, new lift pump working well. Charged battery and went for a start - no go! I tried a few squirts of Easy Start and tried again, did not even try to start.
I don't have a compression tester, can only think that the problem lies with rings or valves unless I am missing something obvious. Starting to look like the engine is coming out?
Well I got fuel to the injectors, new lift pump working well. Charged battery and went for a start - no go! I tried a few squirts of Easy Start and tried again, did not even try to start.
I don't have a compression tester, can only think that the problem lies with rings or valves unless I am missing something obvious. Starting to look like the engine is coming out?
A couple of thoughts now that you say you've got fuel to injectors.
Hoping others will give some thoughts too:
Could the timing is off? Did you remove the injection pump body or do anything that may have affected it?
Is it possible the governor and/or accelerator is out of adjustment? Did you open the throttle when testing?
Compression testing the engine isn't difficult and a comp tester is relatively cheap. You may want to check this. Do we know how many hours the engine has? Are there any traces of oil in the coolant or vice-versa?
Is the air filter and air path ok?
Here is my 2 cents. The stop solenoid probably gets its ground from the engine mounting, so if it's not mounted you need to provide the ground to it.
I would pull the valve cover off and check that the valve train is operating as expected. That is quick and easy. If it doesn't try to fire with ether I'd be looking for a timing or valve train issue. Might want to look at the air inlet side too to be sure its not blocked somehow.
I would pull the valve cover off and check that the valve train is operating as expected. That is quick and easy. If it doesn't try to fire with ether I'd be looking for a timing or valve train issue. Might want to look at the air inlet side too to be sure its not blocked somehow.
Roy, did you have any luck getting the engine to fire up?
I'm having issues right now with a D1105 in my RTV1100. I ran rough then not at all and the dealer told me it needed a new injection pump because everything had been sitting for so long, water in diesel, etc. So, I had the pump rebuilt, installed it, got the lines all bled and it wouldn't start. So, I pulled the injectors and tore them apart and cleaned them up. Re-installed, re-bled the lines and NOTHING!!! I' m wondering; do the injectors themselves need to be bled?
I noticed that the injectors have what looks like a set screw on the side that takes an allen wrench to turn.....is this actually a vent to bleed air out of them?
I'm having issues right now with a D1105 in my RTV1100. I ran rough then not at all and the dealer told me it needed a new injection pump because everything had been sitting for so long, water in diesel, etc. So, I had the pump rebuilt, installed it, got the lines all bled and it wouldn't start. So, I pulled the injectors and tore them apart and cleaned them up. Re-installed, re-bled the lines and NOTHING!!! I' m wondering; do the injectors themselves need to be bled?
I noticed that the injectors have what looks like a set screw on the side that takes an allen wrench to turn.....is this actually a vent to bleed air out of them?
Hi
My D1105 is on a mower so not needed, that said its not running. Pump re-conned and injectors are new. I am getting fuel to the injectors but not even trying to start. I was guessing a compression issue but was going to get an engineer to look when excavator is serviced. The symptoms were identical.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
No that is not an Allen and not a Injector bleeder.
Did you crack the lines at the top of the injectors?
Are you getting fuel there?
Shoot, was hoping there was an easy button! Yes, I do have fuel at the top of the injectors before I tightened the lines down while cranking it over.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Then it's one of four things or a combination of these.
#1 is Low compression
#2 is Non working glow plugs
#3 bad injectors
#4 bad injection pump or injector pump timing.
#1 Do a compression test
#2 if #1 is good, check the glow plug circuit and glow plugs
#3 if #1 and #2 are good, either replace the injectors with new or have your injectors tested and if needed rebuilt.
#4 Since you replaced the injection pump did you put all the sims that were under the original pump back in?
If you didn't or if someone else installed the pump, you should assume its not right and do a spill tests on it, it in the WSM.
Thanks for the suggestions! As it relates to #4, all the shims back under the pump. They actually all just stayed in place when I pulled the pump