Increasing the depth a 3pt disk will cut

[SetterNut]

I have a used 3pt disk that is about 7.5 ft wide that I just bought. It has two rows of disk. The front row is is not offset much, the back row is offset a fair amount.

I could not get the disks to bit in more than maybe an inch or so. I added a large hedge log on to it to add weight to it. That helped a little but not much.

This is with the position lever for the 3pt all the way down. I have a MX5100

Another question is does the 3pt hitch actually push an implement into the ground with some force, or is it used to just lift an implement.

Thanks
Steve

 

[coachgeo]

....Another question is does the 3pt hitch actually push an implement into the ground with some force, or is it used to just lift an implement.

Just lift.... gravity down.

Tell us about the earth your working with.

 

[SetterNut]

The ground I am working with is pretty hard and dry at this point. I am planting food plots and a dove field in a Ks Flinthills farm.

I also need to lightly disk some strips in the pasture next to some of my plum thickets for quail habitat.

 

[1970cs]

Can you change the angle of the front disc gangs? Also notched disc are better for breaking up fresh or unworked ground.

Pat

 

[85Hokie]

Setter,

does your lower link arms have more than one set of holes? Sometimes there are extra holes ON the arm, ones closer to pto allow lower depth - less lift capacity, the holes further away allow less depth, higher lift. Sometimes there are more holes on the vertical fork....see picture.

 

[scdeerslayer]

In my ground if it's been more than a few months since it's been worked it's useless to try to disk without first running through with a scarifier/chisel plow to break up the ground. If it's never been worked or it's been a few years I need a subsoiler before that. Of course it depends on what type of soil you have. It would be good to use a scarifier/chisel plow at least once every few years anyway to break up the soil compaction below where the disk reaches to so the roots of what you plant can grow deeper.

 

[Dalroo]

I did the same with my MX4800 and two row disc. Like the OP, I planted for food plots for both deer and dove in ground that had not been worked in many years. I ended up having to make several passes to get any kind of depth, but eventually all worked.

First, should note that I did not spray herbicide and did this all over fields covered in coastal grass and weeds. I also did not add any weight to the implement, but probably will in the future.

I made first pass with gangs set at most aggressive angle and in some places got down several inches, and in others just scratched the surface. On the next pass I adjusted the gangs to a bit less aggressive setting and was able to get a little bit deeper.

After the second pass I broadcast my seed and then bedded by making a third pass with the disc at least angle and by then had pretty good soil exposure.

In my case I was only working about 8 or 9 acres and all of the seed I was using only needed to be a couple of inches deep, so it worked for me. This process would probably not work economically for someone doing much larger production planting, but for wildlife it seemed okay. I also anticipate that as I work these fields in future years the ground will become better.

Again, my first time doing these fields, but with all of the moisture we've received in central Texas this year, I do have a lot of plants coming up, but hard to tell just yet how complete because the grass is coming back strong as well. As I go I will probably invest in a sprayer and kill the existing vegetation before discing. I am learning as I go and haven't purchased all I will ultimately need, but it is a learning process for me.

 

[D2Cat]

Tie another hedge post on and play with adjusting the angle of the disc so they will cut into the soil some. It will probably take several passes. Would probably be easier if you started out with some kind of harrow, but play with what you have!

Your 3 point has no down pressure, so the weight added is what forces the iron into the soil.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Change the angle of the disks, you will get a better cut if the angles match.

 

[skeets]

I know this is not your set of disks BUT watch it and it will tell you just about everything you need to know to get your disks to work right

https://youtu.be/zZAA04cACl8?t=330

https://youtu.be/vsc6coGeB7s?t=46

https://youtu.be/MzXmLV9QJZg?t=4

 

[SetterNut]

Here is the Disk I bought. This is before I put a hedge log on the back. I will add some more logs to the front half of the disk.

But you can see that the front disks are not offset much. So I will move the attachment points to increase the angle.

I will double check to see if I have other adjustment holes on the 3pt to allow it to let the disk run deeper.

Thanks guys

This is one of the main reasons I am working the ground. More Quail for the dogs to work.

 

[D2Cat]

Those disc do a good job of cutting forage and breaking the ground. Might straighten the rear gang, and add more weight. Then work at a different angle until you get the soil the way you want it.

 

[zload]

A man by the name of John Deere solved that issue back in 1837 and most historical articles note the sticky prairie soils of the mid-west as his motivator... but you can still use one behind a 'Bota...

Gravity disc harrows are just not going to break up heavy/hard compacted soils to any great depth. If you are just wanting a small food plot you just keep making repeated passes and maybe get down a few inches but you'll be way better off if doing a full field to find a bottom plow or sub-soiler to really get in and break it up then use the disc harrow.