I wanted to install a block heater on my L245DT but couldn’t find any real details as to how to do it online. I posted about this before on this forum.
People suggested using a magnetic heater or a lower radiator hose heater, both of which were ok, but I’ve grown up with block heaters and am familiar with them.
I found one video online where you glimpse the owner’s block heater and it was installed in a freeze plug hole on the left side of the engine in front of the starter motor.
I thought, cool, that’s where it goes. I ordered a heater on Ebay for $79 that was supposed to fit this exact tractor. I checked the freeze plug hole size with the seller beforehand to make sure it was correct and it was. All good.
When the heater came, I drained the antifreeze, popped the plug and found there was essentially no clearance for the heater element.
The cylinder wall is right next to the opening.
Turns out that the way the person I saw above did his was to install an adapter that then held the heater element. I didn't like this solution as is seemed like the heated fluid wouldn't have an easy circulation path back to the engine.
I started a return of the heater, explaining that it wouldn’t fit into that opening, and the seller told me that the proper installation location is at the rear of the head. Looking at the location, it seemed pretty tight there.
To get in there, I’d need to pull off the instrument console, the steering wheel, the fuel tank, and the sheet metal fuel tank mount (and heat shield?). Once I did that, there was the freeze plug.
Once I knocked the plug out, it was obvious that there was only one way the curved element would fit in.
Here’s the element.
The angled element slides in toward the right. It fit very nicely.
However, the plug prevented the fuel tank mounting bracket from going as far forward as it should, and the tank rubbed up against the steering column.
So, I used a hole saw and cut an oversized hole in the mounting bracket, sanded the edges, and lined the hole with thick rubber tape to minimize vibration wear, and installed the bracket again. The plug was inserted after the bracket was installed.
It’s very tight, but I think it’ll be fine. My only worry is that there’s going to be a fair amount of heat buildup in that area during the summer months particularly, and I don’t know how the wire will fare long term.
Anyway, that’s what worked for me. The hardest part was dealing with the console. it's very tight in there, and working with the various connecting cables was a pain. A gear puller was required to remove the steering wheel, although I've seen people online using a bearing splitter for this purpose.
People suggested using a magnetic heater or a lower radiator hose heater, both of which were ok, but I’ve grown up with block heaters and am familiar with them.
I found one video online where you glimpse the owner’s block heater and it was installed in a freeze plug hole on the left side of the engine in front of the starter motor.
I thought, cool, that’s where it goes. I ordered a heater on Ebay for $79 that was supposed to fit this exact tractor. I checked the freeze plug hole size with the seller beforehand to make sure it was correct and it was. All good.
When the heater came, I drained the antifreeze, popped the plug and found there was essentially no clearance for the heater element.
The cylinder wall is right next to the opening.
Turns out that the way the person I saw above did his was to install an adapter that then held the heater element. I didn't like this solution as is seemed like the heated fluid wouldn't have an easy circulation path back to the engine.
I started a return of the heater, explaining that it wouldn’t fit into that opening, and the seller told me that the proper installation location is at the rear of the head. Looking at the location, it seemed pretty tight there.
To get in there, I’d need to pull off the instrument console, the steering wheel, the fuel tank, and the sheet metal fuel tank mount (and heat shield?). Once I did that, there was the freeze plug.
Once I knocked the plug out, it was obvious that there was only one way the curved element would fit in.
Here’s the element.
The angled element slides in toward the right. It fit very nicely.
However, the plug prevented the fuel tank mounting bracket from going as far forward as it should, and the tank rubbed up against the steering column.
So, I used a hole saw and cut an oversized hole in the mounting bracket, sanded the edges, and lined the hole with thick rubber tape to minimize vibration wear, and installed the bracket again. The plug was inserted after the bracket was installed.
It’s very tight, but I think it’ll be fine. My only worry is that there’s going to be a fair amount of heat buildup in that area during the summer months particularly, and I don’t know how the wire will fare long term.
Anyway, that’s what worked for me. The hardest part was dealing with the console. it's very tight in there, and working with the various connecting cables was a pain. A gear puller was required to remove the steering wheel, although I've seen people online using a bearing splitter for this purpose.
