How do you remove a sheave pulley

[haanzel]

Take a look at this diagram https://www.messicks.com/ku/84545?sectionId=215176&diagramId=327198

I am working with 39, 13 and 41. I need to remove the spindle from the pulley, but there is a bearing in there. I have tried a pulley remover and steering wheel puller with no luck.

Can it be pushed out either way?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Take a look at this diagram https://www.messicks.com/ku/84545?sectionId=215176&diagramId=327198

I am working with 39, 13 and 41. I need to remove the spindle from the pulley, but there is a bearing in there. I have tried a pulley remover and steering wheel puller with no luck.

Can it be pushed out either way?

You need to remove the 2 bolts, then push the outside down then inside comes up.

 

[haanzel]

Thanks, that was what I was doing, guess I need a larger press.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks, that was what I was doing, guess I need a larger press.

Have the 2 halves separated?

 

[haanzel]

The 2 bolts are removed along with the 2 ball bearing units and the 2 spacers. What is left is the the spindle, sheave bearing and pulley. I just have not been able to push the spindle out. If I can get that, I will just put in a new spindle and leave the sheave bearing in place.

 

[SidecarFlip]

You need one of those Harbor Freight Hydraulic pullers. I have a 12 ton one and it will pull anything including frozen disc brake rotors. if it won't pull them, it breaks them in two for easy removal....

Best 75 bucks I ever spent on a puller.

 

[haanzel]

Old thread but same mower. I replaced 2 of 3 shafts last time. The pulleys on those were the same, this one is different, how do you remove this pulley? What is this type called? I loosened up the allen bolts but that did not do much. TIA.

 

[Russell King]

Looks like a taper lock bushing. I recall the center is tapering smaller on the far side and gets compressed by a taper in the sheave as they are pulled together. Usually the screws are used to push it apart also but I don’t see how that would work for your part

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I've worked with taper lock bushings before, but none quite like yours. Can you back those allen screws out further? Maybe they'll push the bushing out. If you get some pressure on it, try penetrating oil and a little hammer action.

 

[D2Cat]

Is that 1" "washer" a snap ring, there to keep the cap screws in place? Looks like you'd pry the retainer off, back off the cap screws, then perhaps use longer bolts to force the pulley off.

 

[hagrid]

View attachment 99497

I think this one was installed incorrectly. There should be two more half bores in your pulley to extract the taper.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I stared at the picture for quite awhile and FINALLY see what's wrong...

The sheave(pulley) has rotated about 90* from where it's supposed to be !
The Allen head cap screw should line up with the 'notches' in the 'adapter' piece taht locks the sheave onto the shaft.
'somehow' you need to lines things up, remove the cap screws, THEN the sheave will come off...
maybe a pipe wrench on the shaft and a big one on the sheave ??

 

[haanzel]

Thanks for the info/replies. After finding out the name (thanks RK!), I searched and now see how they work. I also think it was rotated 90 degrees somehow. I can try to back out the bolts more to see if I can loosen it up to rotate the bushing. I too thought it may be a snap ring, but closer inspection shows that it is too thick and goes into the pulley. Will report back.

 

[haanzel]

Update- 2-3 hours later and we have success! I ended up dremeling a bit back to make clearance for the 2 allen bolts. After a lot of heat, pullers, hammering and Kroil, I was able to remove the spindle and take it all apart except 1 woodruff key that I am soaking overnight. The pulley is undamaged and there is a good chance I can reuse the bushing. Thanks all for the help.

I have to ask, has any anyone moved to a newer 1 piece spindle on these type of mowers? I am guessing they were not around back in the 70s/early 80s. There appear to be many pluses to moving towards this type of unit over what the original setup is- parts availability, much lower cost, ease of install to list the big three. I guess I'd need to take some measurements but wanted to know if anyone knew someone who has done this or any downsides.

 

[Russell King]

Update- 2-3 hours later and we have success! I ended up dremeling a bit back to make clearance for the 2 allen bolts. After a lot of heat, pullers, hammering and Kroil, I was able to remove the spindle and take it all apart except 1 woodruff key that I am soaking overnight. The pulley is undamaged and there is a good chance I can reuse the bushing. Thanks all for the help.

I have to ask, has any anyone moved to a newer 1 piece spindle on these type of mowers? I am guessing they were not around back in the 70s/early 80s. There appear to be many pluses to moving towards this type of unit over what the original setup is- parts availability, much lower cost, ease of install to list the big three. I guess I'd need to take some measurements but wanted to know if anyone knew someone who has done this or any downsides.

Good to hear you have it apart!

Would you post pictures of the disassembled sheave parts to show how they are supposed to be taken apart and put together. I, like @hagrid, would have expected to see two holes to press it apart. But I have not seen many of them in person so I’m assuming that this is a different style than I have been associated with.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

great it's apart..
next time... once the bolts are out , take a section of 2" pipe,against the sheave and WHACK it once good. That usually releases it from the inner piece(hub), usually.......

Why the 2 piece design ? It makes it EASY for manufactures to customize the parts as required for different series of machinery. If you used 1 piece sheaves/pulleys you need a lot of inventory.

 

[hagrid]

Good to hear you have it apart!

Would you post pictures of the disassembled sheave parts to show how they are supposed to be taken apart and put together. I, like @hagrid, would have expected to see two holes to press it apart. But I have not seen many of them in person so I’m assuming that this is a different style than I have been associated with.

Tapers are/were popular in longwall coal mining equipment and other heavy applications. They were a pain in my tuchus because of alignment issues: the sheave can move a little along the shaft as the taper gets tightened if the shaft doesn't have steps turned into it.

All the tapers and sheaves had two pairs of matching bores that formed complete circles. On one pair only the sheave half of the bore was threaded... this pushed the taper into its home. The other pair, only the taper side was threaded. You move the screws to those bores and tighten... the taper pops out.

 

[haanzel]

Russell- Here are the parts that comprises of the entire spindle after sitting in evaporust overnight. Maybe more than you are asking, but hopefully will help someone in the future. The only thing not pictured is the blade that sits in the holder on the right with the castle nut.

The sheave consists of the 4 left most parts- the pulley, bushing and 2 screws. The longer woodruff key on the left was a pain, I think I can reuse it but will check if the largest one in the HF kit is the same size, it is close. The two pieces below the the keys are the collars with an allen set screw.

Some of these parts are NLA, I know the spindle is, I had to have 2 made a few years ago by a local machine shop at $100 each (then). It's a pricey setup x 3 so an all-in-one unit that is used by Brushcutter or similar would be welcomed. On the flip side, it mows really great. HTH

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