I have a 2022 BX23S that has 225 hours on it, 175 by me. It has worked perfectly until a few weeks ago, when it suddenly started cutting out momentarily. The first dozen times or so I was working on a steep slope and thought maybe the fuel intake was sucking air. It always started again immediately, and would run for hours as long as it was not on a slope. Since then, it has gotten progressively worse to the point that it is now unusable. When first started after a shutdown of several hours, it runs smoothly for about 5 minutes, then begins cutting out and dying. The weird thing is it runs fine until the slightest touch on the drive pedal. Last week I did the 200 hour service on it, and while doing that I drained the fuel tank (no sign of any water or contaminants), replaced both fuel filters, and refilled the tank with new fuel and an additive to remove water. It ran great for 3-4 days, then the problem returned. Today I tried bleeding the fuel lines, no sign of air or water and no improvement. I know it could be the fuel pump, but I'm hesitant to head down the "replace parts till it's fixed" road. Also, if it's the fuel pump, why does it idle just fine, even at twice normal operating speed? There's never a problem until I press the drive pedal even slightly, then the RPMs immediately drop toward zero and the engine dies.
Help! Complete novice with fuel system problem.
- Thread starter Grampus
- Start date
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
That last line describes a safety switch problem not a fuel problem.
You need to look at the operator presence switch (under or in seat) and the Nuetral switch (activated by the HST pedal)
You need to look at the operator presence switch (under or in seat) and the Nuetral switch (activated by the HST pedal)
Thank you! I noticed that switch this morning when I crawled underneath. I don't think it's the Operator Presence switch, but the Neutral switch sounds spot on. I will try to replace on Wednesday. I'll post the results when I'm finished, in case someone else runs into the same problem.
Big shout out to Russell King! He correctly diagnosed my problem first time, probably saving me hundreds of dollars. The new switch cost $35, so I'm very happy. Advice much appreciated. If anyone else is having a similar problem, be aware that you have to do extensive disassembly to actually replace the switch-including the seat assembly, floor pan, and fender assembly. Took me almost a day, but now I know the best way to do it if I need to again,
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Shameless plug - you could show your appreciation by becoming a Lifetime Member.
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It is part # K2871-62250, the one activated by the HST pedal (there are 3 of them on the tractor in different places). I believe it is called the neutral switch.
I wasn't being negative or demeaning you. I just know the operator presence switch is usually pretty easy to get to and switch it out. It's under the seat, so the other switch is what is left.
I wasn't offended at all. I'm curious how long it would take an experienced owner to replace that switch. Maybe I'm taking some unnecessary steps.
whitetiger
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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA