Harbor Freight Diesel Compression Test Kit

[Dave344]

Has anyone used the Harbor Freight Diesel Compression Test Kit adaptor on
the Kubota D-950 in the glow plug hole? The instruction booklet says it fits most Kubota engines. Just wondering if the D-950 is in the most
engine category.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[jhall30]

Yes......I bought the same one from there and it worked great!!

 

[coachgeo]

Will this work on the D1102?

Anyone know if thread is the same as above tractor's Glow Plug? The HF tester for Kubota is a 10x1.25 threaded insert

 

[coachgeo]

Will this work on the D1102?

Anyone know if thread is the same as above tractor's Glow Plug? The HF tester for Kubota is a 10x1.25 threaded insert

Looks like I found my own answer. From a sales ad for L235 glowplug it says "Thread: M10x1.25 " passing it on for others

It states that the below tractors all use the same plug so all the tractors below should work with the HF compression tester too. (35$ish dollar HF tester; Item#93644)

Fits Kubota KH-1, KH-10, KH-11H, KH-12ED, KH-14, KH-15, KH-18, KH-20, L1501, L175, L1801, L185, L185DT, L2000, L2002, L2201, L2202L, L235, L2402, L245, L245DT, L245F, L245H, L2601, L2602, L275, L2802, L295, L295DT, L295F, L3001, L305, L3202, L345, L345DT, L4202, L4212, M4000, M4050, M4050DT, M4500, M4500DT, M4950, TR-20FD

 

[olthumpa]

Looks like I found my own answer. From a sales ad for L235 glowplug it says "Thread: M10x1.25 " passing it on for others

It states that the below tractors all use the same plug so all the tractors below should work with the HF compression tester too. (35$ish dollar HF tester; Item#93644)

Fits Kubota KH-1, KH-10, KH-11H, KH-12ED, KH-14, KH-15, KH-18, KH-20, L1501, L175, L1801, L185, L185DT, L2000, L2002, L2201, L2202L, L235, L2402, L245, L245DT, L245F, L245H, L2601, L2602, L275, L2802, L295, L295DT, L295F, L3001, L305, L3202, L345, L345DT, L4202, L4212, M4000, M4050, M4050DT, M4500, M4500DT, M4950, TR-20FD

Thanks for that info, I was looking to test my compression.

 

[coachgeo]

Well questions. Any hints on removing the glow plugs? In my case it is an L235. Plug closest to radiator (#1) is behind the IP lines and dang near impossible to get too. Had to remove the rear most fuel injector line off the IP to reach it and still had to force a 12mm deep socket against it and pray not to round out the 1mm edge of the nut I could actually catch a hold off. Luckly it came off. Had to leave off the fuel injector pipe to be able to connect Gauge hose. Middle plug not to bad. Rear glow plug..... not to bad but can not plug gauges hose to the insert because the hydraulic filter is in the way .

Over all They all took torque to remove once you snake you find a way to cram a socket or wrench on them. Almost felt too loose. Question. Is there suppose to be a crush washer or something there? There is really no clearance between plug and intake manifold to get socket, crowsfoot, open end on them. A missing washer/ spacer orr might explain that?

Question..... If coolant pisses out the bottom of the exhast (a totally unexpexcted port apparently is just below where the verticle stack/muffler is mounted to the manifold. does this only mean a head gasket issue or worse exist? This only happened on the first gauge measurement. Didn't happen any more after that though I had a mist blowing on each spin of the engine no matter what cylinder I was checking. Could not tell if this was out of glow plugs or IP since I had to leave the rear most Fuel Injector pipe removed for access.

I got 400psi on one piston and 350 on the other. (front two). Good?, Bad?, the bomb?. Had to do it cold. Engine not running to warm it up.

The last cylinder I can't test whith Hydraulic Filer in place. But Hydraulic Filter is jammed on. Any hints on how to remove the filer? Tried an Oil filter clamp style remover but it startd to crush the filter housing. (assuming it is a housing with a removable inner filter). Tried the large nut on top but would not go either way much. Heard as small pop/crack at one point and stopped. Don't want to damage anything. Is it normal thread or reverse thread? Does the nut come off or is it part of the housing cover. Looks like part of cover? Is it a cover or is the filter one piece like an Oil Filter?

Can I test with Hydraulic filter removed?

 

[coachgeo]

Bk 2 da top

Thanx

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pull all the injector lines and get them out of your way, besides pressure tests are best done without it feeding fuel to the injectors.

The filter is just a spin on filter, your going to have to just wrench on it to remove it.
No that is the suction side of the system so it won't move any oil when it off.

 

[coachgeo]

Pull all the injector lines and get them out of your way, besides pressure tests are best done without it feeding fuel to the injectors.

The filter is just a spin on filter, your going to have to just wrench on it to remove it.
No that is the suction side of the system so it won't move any oil when it off.

ok can pull IP lines. There was no mention of that in the compression check manual.

This hydraulic oil filter is colored same color as the Kubota Engine. You sure it is a filter and not a cap with a filter inside?

UPDATE: As usual Wolfman is right. It is a filter not a cap. see: http://www.messicks.com/partdetail/H3840-37710.aspx

So back to once it is removed, Since it is on the suction side how do I plug it to not suck the hydraulic system full of air while turning the engine over to get the compression reading on that cyclinder?

Also any thoughts on the compression readings gotton so far?

 

[coachgeo]

some further search I found

Compression (PSI) Standard: 450
Compression Lower Limit: 325


sooo..... will see. I have to test this with the hydraulic filter OFF cause it is in the way of the compression tester. Won't fit with it in place. So Now to get that Hydraulic Oil filter off so I can test #3. Again seeking advice to how or if I need to cap off the filter base to prevent hydraulic oil from being pushed out or air sucked it.

 

[coachgeo]

For everyone else in a similar boat as I. Found below data here http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/volkswagen-412-articles.html

* Adapter.... NOT HARBOR FREIGHT. Not sure which compression testor they are refering too.

COMPRESSION PRESSURE FOR KUBOTA DIESEL ENGINES

Compression Pressures For
1970-99 Kubota Diesel Engines

The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information regarding cranking compression specifications for Kubota diesel engines. This information should be referenced anytime the engine is being considered for rebuild or evaluated. To obtain an accurate value of cranking compression, the engine should be operated until normal operating temperature is obtained. If an engine will not start, the cold cranking compression value can be used but it will be 3-10% lower than a hot reading.

Kubota provides seven different adapters to help facilitate the cranking compression test and suggests the following precautions and instructions before testing.

1. Remove the air cleaner and muffler to allow for free flow while spinning engine over.
2. Remove the fuel nozzles from all cylinders and install compression tester of at least 600 PSI.
3. Pull the fuel stop lever, or override the stop solenoid. Turn the engine over with the starter until the maximum pressure is obtained. Crankshaft rotation must be at least 250 RPM.
4. If the pressure is less than the allowable limit, rotate each piston to top dead center (TDC) and inject 1 ml of clean 10W engine oil in each cylinder and retest.
5. If the readings do not improve, suspect the engine valves of leakage, a bent rod or worn pistons and rings.
6. Compression variance between cylinders should be less than 10%.
7. If compression readings are close to the allowable limit specification, the engine may run but it will never develop full horsepower. As much as 25% loss of power should be expected.

Allowable Value
Engine Model(s).....................Adapter*.........Standard Value.............Before Rebuild

D600, D640, D662, Z400, Z43
Z482, D722, D905, D1005, V800 E.................412- 469 PSI..............327 PSI
V1105, V1205, V1305, V1505

Z500, Z600, ZH600, Z751, Z871, D650
D750, D850, D950, D1101, D1102
D1301, D1302, D1402, V1100, V1101 B ...........412- 469 PSI..............327 PSI
V1200, V1501, V1502, V1702, V1902
V2202, S2200, S2600, S2800

ZL600, Z1100 ............................... A............412- 469 PSI..............327 PSI

A1300.......................................... D............412- 469 PSI..............327 PSI

D1302DI, D1402DI, V1702DI, V1902DI
V2302DI, F2402DI, F260DI, S2802DI F............412- 469 PSI..............327 PSI

D1462DI, D1902DI, F2503DI........... G or I...........412- 469 PSI..............327 PSI
F2803DI, V2203DI

D3000, D3200, D3502, V4300
V4302, V4702.................................C ............412- 469 PSI..............327 PSI

D1503L-A, D1703A V1903A, F2803 E.................512-540 PSI..............360 PSI

AC60, OC60, )C95....................... B.................455-469 PSI ............. 360PSI

The AERA Technical Committee

PS- still looking for info on if I need to seal off where Hydraulic filter would be before testing the last cyclnders pressure.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You can let the hydraulic pump suck in air it's not going to hurt a thing while compression testing.
Hydraulic systems, especially simple systems, are self bleeding, it will take about 15 sec to push any air out that gets in there.

 

[coachgeo]

You can let the hydraulic pump suck in air it's not going to hurt a thing while compression testing.
Hydraulic systems, especially simple systems, are self bleeding, it will take about 15 sec to push any air out that gets in there.

ahhhhh truth is in the details. Mucho thanx.

Hope the data above and other ramblings in here helps others. And of course thanks to Wolfy