G1900 electrical question

[coss]

I have a G1900, purchased used. When I bought it, the key switch did not turn off the engine. Instead, the engine would stop if I pulled back on the small lever on the top left side of the engine (left as seen when sitting in the seat looking forward). It also would not hold a battery charge.

I have been jump starting it to get it going, and pulling back on the lever to get it to stop for awhile now, and it runs fine.

However, I'm about to move it to a shed that does not have electricity, so I'd like to fix the problem so it: 1. Turns off with the key like it's supposed to. 2. Doesn't drain the battery when the key is turned off.

Any ideas about the source of the problem(s), and what I should do to fix them?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your problem sounds 2 fold, but could all be from the same issue.
You either are not getting power to/from the voltage regulator or to/from the altanator to have it charge and second problem is not getting power to the stop solenoid relay and or stop solenoid.

Easiest way to fix it is to get the WSM as it will have all the troubleshooting tips and wiring diagram.

And sorry there is no free download of that WSM.

WSM P/N 97897-10835

http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=19458

 

[Pap]

The G1800 has the same wiring as the G1900.

 

[Cottonwood]

Your problem sounds 2 fold, but could all be from the same issue.
You either are not getting power to/from the voltage regulator or to/from the altanator to have it charge and second problem is not getting power to the stop solenoid relay and or stop solenoid.

Easiest way to fix it is to get the WSM as it will have all the troubleshooting tips and wiring diagram.

And sorry there is no free download of that WSM.

WSM P/N 97897-10835

http://www.colemanequip.com/Parts_Detail.asp?partID=19458

I have a G2000 gas, and a F2560 Diesel, both of which have electric fuel pumps. The 2560 suffered for several years from low batteries, and intermittent sputtering. Replacing the battery did nothing, so I decided to pull the alternator and get it tested. Turns out the big nut holding the wire tight to the post was loose. But it could not been seen because of the rubber boot over it. It sent just enough power to usually run the fuel pump, throw a little charge into the battery, and for some reason keep the alt light from going on? Weird!

 

[100 td]

X 2 on Wolfmans comments.
After the usual connections and fuses check, you need to address a most likely dead battery, as well as the means to charge it. If you have a dynamo as in the G1800, then it's likely that the rectifier/regulator is fried.
From the G1800 list, it "appears" a rect/reg is available for $28. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VSZU9B6
If this fixes your dynamo, and charges the new battery you are going to fit, then it's possible the stop solenoid will work. This however is not guaranteed, but is the best place to start.

 

[lugbolt]

Probably 2 separate problems, but it COULD be one component causing both. These are known for wiring problems. Corroded connectors. Key switch failures, etc. Brake switch is known to die early too, as is the PTO switch.

The combination box controls the key off. It also is used to control the glow plugs. Sometimes when the box dies, the glow plug lamp in the dash will not illuminate when the key is turned to preheat.

Disconnect and apply battery power to the stop solenoid. If it works, it's good. If not, replace it and check the fuse. There is a key stop fuse, IIRC, and occasionally the solenoid will fail and pull more juice than the fuse is rated for, then it pops. Some guys will bypass the fuse with foil or a bigger fuse or wire. That's a no-no. Don't do it. Unless you have insurance on it and the building it's stored in.

Look at your wiring diagram and see how the system works. Sounds like you have an idea how to work on things, and I won't tell you exactly how to diagnose it, as it's a really simple system. Hint: I've had to replace more than one combination box on mine. They'll also cause battery drain.

I also found at one point that mine had a defective (broken) voltage regulator, causing the dynamo to charge the battery at 15.3v (regulated). Also, it would draw the battery down while sitting. Replaced and that solved it temporarily. Then the key switch died, again, causing battery drain while sitting. Replaced. Fixed. I replaced the dynamo with an alternator from a BX23/24/25 because I like the alternator better, but it requires some wiring to do it. It's not plug and play. Doing this, I was able to remove the junk OEM regulator from behind the dash, which also eliminated the harness connection from the system (and it's known to burn up). It now charges 14.3v at it's shaky idle, and 14.3v at full throttle.

 

[adventure bob]

Coss, you wanna take a pic of that 1900 starter and the wires for me? Need to able to see the terminals (long vs short) and the wiring harness.