G1800 starting trouble

[MrCamp]

G1800 will not crank. Starting protocal followed (on seat, pto disengaged and pulled back, foot on brake), no go. Tried jiggling pto handle and tapping on starting (worked in past), no go. Checked power to starter, ground wires, and safety switches: all good. Checked fuses: all good. Checked black/white wire running to starter solenoid: no power, traced black white wire back to mystery box on opposite side of engine. Continuity good from solenoid to mystery box. Continuity good from mystery box to ignition (black yellow wire). Mystery box is 3 inches square and .5 inch thick, with bunch of wires leading to and from. Jumped power sending 12v to the starter solenoid and tractor starts up and runs (had key on and did the pre heat protocal prior). Key turns engine off. What is mystery box? What else to check? http://www.orangetractortalks.com/kubotagallery/?image=258

 

[stuart]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
You might get a faster response if you re post this message in the service repair and maintenance section.
Sorry I can't help find a solution.

 

[Hemmi]

I'm having exactly the same problem. The mystery box is called the combination box. It could be your problem, but in my case it is not. The combination box cost $146. I bought a new one but I have the same problem with the new box. I hope I can return the new combination box to Messick but I'll chase that down tomorrow.

I've got the problem tracked back to the ignition switch. The switch seems to be causing a 2-3 volt drop to the system voltage (high resistance) in the start circuit. Apparently the 10 volts that I'm getting to the combination box is not enough to trip the relay to the solenoid.

I'm in the process of taking out the ignition switch, but I haven't been able to get the steering wheel off yet. I'm guessing the switch is either dirty or has carbon build up, causing a poor contact (high resistance). It's unfortunate that Kubota made the dash panel and related switches so difficult to access and remove. Getting to the ignition switch takes some serious disassembly.


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[Hemmi]

I still can't get the steering wheel off, so I can't get to the ignition switch to test it.

I've got 2-jaw and 3-jaw pullers of several different sizes and none will fit well enough to get a grip on the hub.

Tomorrow I'm getting a bearing splitter to see if that will fit under the hub and give the puller something to grab and pull against.

It seems that steering wheels are always a pain to remove. I spent 2 weeks getting the steering wheel off of my 1970 deuce and a half. It took cranking on a lot of pressure with a puller and leaving it on for days, lots of PB Blaster, and tapping on the hub and shaft every day for several days before it finally popped off. I sure hope this one comes off easier than that.


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[Hemmi]

Ok, a 3" bearing splitter did the trick for the steering wheel and it is off.

Next problem, I can't figure out how to remove the ignition switch from the plastic dash panel.

Dagnabit!


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[Hemmi]

Fixed it!

There were two problems:

1) The ground connections between the battery and the frame and block were slightly corroded. I cleaned them up with sandpaper and applied a bit of anti-seize.

The grounds I cleaned are pictured here.

2) The Combination Box was bad. It wouldn't relay the 12V to the starter solenoid under any condition. I wonder if the bad ground may have caused the combo box failure?

I had previously thought the combination box was not the problem because I had the same "no start" condition after swapping it out. However, the bad ground was also causing low voltage (~10V) in the starter circuit.

After cleaning the ground connections and swapping the combo box, she fires right up.


I've also been having a problem with the battery not charging or not holding a charge. I suspect this fix solved that as well.

I'm a happy camper now.


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[Hemmi]

I just noticed that I resurrected a very old post from MrCamp. Sorry about that. I found that thread while searching for answers to my problem and his problem was identical to mine.

I don't know how his problem turned out, but the information that I found searching the forums here helped and inspired me to stick with the troubleshooting until I found and fixed the problem.

My G1800 is a 1999 model with 300 hours on it and it is like new. I've had it for about 5 years and I'm so glad to be able to start it with the key now instead of raising the hood to jump the solenoid every time!

Hopefully the info I've posted will help others with a similar problem as it seems to be fairly common from what I've read.

 

[Womba]

I'm having exactly the same problem. The mystery box is called the combination box. It could be your problem, but in my case it is not. The combination box cost $146. I bought a new one but I have the same problem with the new box. I hope I can return the new combination box to Messick but I'll chase that down tomorrow.

I've got the problem tracked back to the ignition switch. The switch seems to be causing a 2-3 volt drop to the system voltage (high resistance) in the start circuit. Apparently the 10 volts that I'm getting to the combination box is not enough to trip the relay to the solenoid.

I'm in the process of taking out the ignition switch, but I haven't been able to get the steering wheel off yet. I'm guessing the switch is either dirty or has carbon build up, causing a poor contact (high resistance). It's unfortunate that Kubota made the dash panel and related switches so difficult to access and remove. Getting to the ignition switch takes some serious disassembly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was having almost identical starting problems with my 1995 G1800. Quite by accident, I found the problem. I had found that I could jump the solenoid and the tractor would start.
I was in the process of installing a cable to put an old fashion foot switch across the starter solenoid but had to pull the starter to do it because I lacked that one tool, (I know that's never happened to y'all)! On the back side of the starter, I found a connection I wasn't aware of. From this forum I had learned that electrical connections are often the cause of starting problems on the G1800 so I cleaned the hidden terminal well and went ahead and installed my jumper wire. About that time, it started to rain, (I know this never happens to y'all)! I closed the hood and thought, "Let me see if this dern thing will turn over so I can get under cover!" I turned the key and IT FIRED RIGHT UP! I never installed the jumper switch and have had no more problems. If you are having starter problems with your G1800, I recommend you start with pulling the starter and cleaning ALL the electrical connections. It worked for me.

 

[Womba]

I'm having exactly the same problem. The mystery box is called the combination box. It could be your problem, but in my case it is not. The combination box cost $146. I bought a new one but I have the same problem with the new box. I hope I can return the new combination box to Messick but I'll chase that down tomorrow.

I've got the problem tracked back to the ignition switch. The switch seems to be causing a 2-3 volt drop to the system voltage (high resistance) in the start circuit. Apparently the 10 volts that I'm getting to the combination box is not enough to trip the relay to the solenoid.

I'm in the process of taking out the ignition switch, but I haven't been able to get the steering wheel off yet. I'm guessing the switch is either dirty or has carbon build up, causing a poor contact (high resistance). It's unfortunate that Kubota made the dash panel and related switches so difficult to access and remove. Getting to the ignition switch takes some serious disassembly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was having almost identical starting problems with my 1995 G1800. Quite by accident, I found the problem. I had found that I could jump the solenoid and the tractor would start.
I was in the process of installing a cable to put an old fashion foot switch across the starter solenoid but had to pull the starter to do it because I lacked that one tool, (I know that's never happened to y'all)! On the back side of the starter, I found a connection I wasn't aware of. From this forum I had learned that electrical connections are often the cause of starting problems on the G1800 so I cleaned the hidden terminal well and went ahead and installed my jumper wire. About that time, it started to rain, (I know this never happens to y'all)! I closed the hood and thought, "Let me see if this dern thing will turn over so I can get under cover!" I turned the key and IT FIRED RIGHT UP! I never installed the jumper switch and have had no more problems. If you are having starter problems with your G1800, I recommend you start with pulling the starter and cleaning ALL the electrical connections. It worked for me.